A few paint questions
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 475
Likes: 34
From: Vermont
A normal process would be body work, as in repair dents,rust etc. When satisfied ,THEN primer (preferably an epoxy( catalized/hardened) primer. Sand & block all repairs and surfaces .Some will look great (there ! that spot done !) others will show needing more work or more priming and or blocking. When happy with all that process..... epoxy SEALER applied , (a barrier to keep topcoats from sinking,soaking like a sponge into bottom coats). Then your color coat..
Your sealer as an initial starting coat is not doing an awful lot down there.It is intended to SEAL solvents from topcoats (your color paint) from absorbing into the primer and bodywork. So.. 1) body work & primer,2)sealer,3) color -topcoats 4) stand back and look at what you accomplished !!
Your sealer as an initial starting coat is not doing an awful lot down there.It is intended to SEAL solvents from topcoats (your color paint) from absorbing into the primer and bodywork. So.. 1) body work & primer,2)sealer,3) color -topcoats 4) stand back and look at what you accomplished !!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 339
From: Wildwood Pa
I spent some time looking at the TPC offerings today. I was hoping for more details about how they want their products to be used, but the info they provide is pretty basic.
Since you are taking it down to bare metal, & plan on using it as a driver, I would use the epoxy as the base. Then do your bodywork. Yes, you can put bondo over epoxy primer, many systems recommend doing that rather than bondo on bare metal. Then lay on a few coats of this product: https://tcpglobal.com/collections/au...to-1-mix-ratio Then lots of block sanding.
I think you'll be fine with the red you chose, MUCH better choice than silver! I see the paint comes already reduced, one thing I am not crazy about. I want to use a reducer tailored to the temperature I am spraying in, this pre reduced product doesn't allow that. I guess just don't paint when it is too hot or too cold. TPC doesn't give any guidelines as to what that ideal temp would be though. Since the paint comes reduced, you will need at least two gallons.
What you want to do is a huge project. I recommend starting off with one panel to learn how all the products work, & what techniques work best for you. Take the hood off, strip it, lay on some epoxy. Fix any damage, use the surfacer, block the hood for days. When you think it is straight enough, take a few days off, then spray a couple more rounds of surfacer, block it again. Apply 3 rounds of the Rally Red, stand back & admire your work. Looks bad? Take a week off, sand the hood with 400 to smooth out the bad spots, shoot more red. You'll get the hang of it. Then do a couple of panels at a time up to the final blocking, until the whole truck is done Then spray the whole deal red at one time.
You can do it all yourself, & get a very nice result. Take your time, watch the details, figure out how to correct or avoid screwups. Ask questions on this forum. Good luck & have fun.
Since you are taking it down to bare metal, & plan on using it as a driver, I would use the epoxy as the base. Then do your bodywork. Yes, you can put bondo over epoxy primer, many systems recommend doing that rather than bondo on bare metal. Then lay on a few coats of this product: https://tcpglobal.com/collections/au...to-1-mix-ratio Then lots of block sanding.
I think you'll be fine with the red you chose, MUCH better choice than silver! I see the paint comes already reduced, one thing I am not crazy about. I want to use a reducer tailored to the temperature I am spraying in, this pre reduced product doesn't allow that. I guess just don't paint when it is too hot or too cold. TPC doesn't give any guidelines as to what that ideal temp would be though. Since the paint comes reduced, you will need at least two gallons.
What you want to do is a huge project. I recommend starting off with one panel to learn how all the products work, & what techniques work best for you. Take the hood off, strip it, lay on some epoxy. Fix any damage, use the surfacer, block the hood for days. When you think it is straight enough, take a few days off, then spray a couple more rounds of surfacer, block it again. Apply 3 rounds of the Rally Red, stand back & admire your work. Looks bad? Take a week off, sand the hood with 400 to smooth out the bad spots, shoot more red. You'll get the hang of it. Then do a couple of panels at a time up to the final blocking, until the whole truck is done Then spray the whole deal red at one time.
You can do it all yourself, & get a very nice result. Take your time, watch the details, figure out how to correct or avoid screwups. Ask questions on this forum. Good luck & have fun.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 422
Likes: 5
From: Indiana
I spent some time looking at the TPC offerings today. I was hoping for more details about how they want their products to be used, but the info they provide is pretty basic.
Since you are taking it down to bare metal, & plan on using it as a driver, I would use the epoxy as the base. Then do your bodywork. Yes, you can put bondo over epoxy primer, many systems recommend doing that rather than bondo on bare metal. Then lay on a few coats of this product: https://tcpglobal.com/collections/au...to-1-mix-ratio Then lots of block sanding.
I think you'll be fine with the red you chose, MUCH better choice than silver! I see the paint comes already reduced, one thing I am not crazy about. I want to use a reducer tailored to the temperature I am spraying in, this pre reduced product doesn't allow that. I guess just don't paint when it is too hot or too cold. TPC doesn't give any guidelines as to what that ideal temp would be though. Since the paint comes reduced, you will need at least two gallons.
What you want to do is a huge project. I recommend starting off with one panel to learn how all the products work, & what techniques work best for you. Take the hood off, strip it, lay on some epoxy. Fix any damage, use the surfacer, block the hood for days. When you think it is straight enough, take a few days off, then spray a couple more rounds of surfacer, block it again. Apply 3 rounds of the Rally Red, stand back & admire your work. Looks bad? Take a week off, sand the hood with 400 to smooth out the bad spots, shoot more red. You'll get the hang of it. Then do a couple of panels at a time up to the final blocking, until the whole truck is done Then spray the whole deal red at one time.
You can do it all yourself, & get a very nice result. Take your time, watch the details, figure out how to correct or avoid screwups. Ask questions on this forum. Good luck & have fun.
Since you are taking it down to bare metal, & plan on using it as a driver, I would use the epoxy as the base. Then do your bodywork. Yes, you can put bondo over epoxy primer, many systems recommend doing that rather than bondo on bare metal. Then lay on a few coats of this product: https://tcpglobal.com/collections/au...to-1-mix-ratio Then lots of block sanding.
I think you'll be fine with the red you chose, MUCH better choice than silver! I see the paint comes already reduced, one thing I am not crazy about. I want to use a reducer tailored to the temperature I am spraying in, this pre reduced product doesn't allow that. I guess just don't paint when it is too hot or too cold. TPC doesn't give any guidelines as to what that ideal temp would be though. Since the paint comes reduced, you will need at least two gallons.
What you want to do is a huge project. I recommend starting off with one panel to learn how all the products work, & what techniques work best for you. Take the hood off, strip it, lay on some epoxy. Fix any damage, use the surfacer, block the hood for days. When you think it is straight enough, take a few days off, then spray a couple more rounds of surfacer, block it again. Apply 3 rounds of the Rally Red, stand back & admire your work. Looks bad? Take a week off, sand the hood with 400 to smooth out the bad spots, shoot more red. You'll get the hang of it. Then do a couple of panels at a time up to the final blocking, until the whole truck is done Then spray the whole deal red at one time.
You can do it all yourself, & get a very nice result. Take your time, watch the details, figure out how to correct or avoid screwups. Ask questions on this forum. Good luck & have fun.
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RobbieC
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jul 25, 2001 08:28 AM
