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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 09:22 AM
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vidaliaman
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From: gowen mi
paint prep question

getting ready to paint roof and back of cab of my 68 ford f100, the roof is now painted gray with what looks to be a nice clear coat, going to paint wimbledon white, my question is.... do i take the roof down to metal or can i prep the current paint with a process of different grit sand paper and if so what would i start with and end with? thanks all

dave
gowen mi
 
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Old Oct 3, 2016 | 12:47 PM
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Well, there are two different thoughts on that.....in theory, yes you can paint directly over existing paint, primer, etc..........but, unless it is either oem paint or you know what the specific brand of paint was that was used for the existing paint, I would take it down to bare metal....here's why IMHO.......paints today are very much a science class......and although each mfg (paint) will say with the proper sealer you can paint over/on top of a paint, I as others will surely chime in, have seen where 1-5 years down the road the new paint decides to lift.......not from contamination but it just delaminates.........there at times are no real good reasons for this except IMHO again, swag....that there is a chemical incompatibility of the new vs old paint.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2016 | 05:51 PM
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that is what i need to know, will take down to bare metal, thanks abunch

dave
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 02:03 AM
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Depends on the type of paint and condition the paint is in.
Only time I take a panel down to metal is if the old paint is an oil based enamel paint and am spraying solvent base paint.
Or take it down to primer if the clear coat is peeling.
If the paint has been on there for a few years and isn't showing signs of peeling, I wouldn't take it down to bare metal. Just sand with 400-600 and paint.
If you aren't sure, then yea, go ahead and go to bare metal.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2020 | 05:45 AM
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Another one who bought from a single manufacturer - a localish auto paint store was very helpful. Single stage color worked for me - also a complete newbie painter. It has remained presentable despite my best efforts. With a different project, I used a John Deere implement enamel on the back sides of the fenders. Very cost effective and very chip resistant. It would also give you some experience with the spray gun before working on the less forgiving surfaces. This pic is from the shindig at Bob's place recently.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 09:17 AM
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Nice looking truck and job well done
Yes the local supplier would be the go to for question & supplies.

I had a little clue when I did my truck as I did body work & painting way back in the early 80's, a lot has changed since then.
I also went with a single stage with a hardener. I did this because I was doing a two tone paint job, cab then bed, and to do clean over a base would have been twice the paint work.
I also only had 3 day long weekends to do this in so single stage / hardener was the way to go. Mine was also built to be a nice looking driver and be used.
I had to take mine down to metal as it had 2 maybe 3 full paint jobs, a flat black over everything inside & out and body filler that was checking from rust under it.


After 4 year body off frame rebuild

Dave ----
 
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