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I have a 1966 F100 2x4 that I am converting to power brakes. It will have a newer double chamber master cylinder. I have purchased a replacement hydraulic brake light switch to install inline somewhere. After reading several threads on here, I decided that an under dash switch attached to the brake pedal is a better option. I read about a switch with a mounting bracket that I read from a thread on here that I can't find now. Here is the link to the part: https://www.performanceonline.com/br...nting-bracket/. I need some advice on how to mount this without having to make another bracket for it to work. I don't have means to cut and bend metal in my garage. Is there some bracket that I can purchase that will work? Any help will be appreciated.
You don't have a hack saw to cut, or a bench vise and a BFH to bend??
You could go to a Pick'n'Pull yard, and see what they used on the Dentsides (1973-1979 F-series)
X2 I have even clamped metal to my car trailer to bend when needed.
If you don't have a grinder with cut off wheel this would a good time to buy one, we can always use more tools
I would not limit my look to just that year or make truck look at all trucks & cars to see what they are using as you may come across something that will work from say an older (gasp) chevy that may work.
Dave ----
ps I was going to say ditch that psi switch as the new ones start leaking with in a year.
Literally just did this. A hack saw and some scraps I found in the shop. Biggest obstacle for me was the neutral safety switch. Without that in the way the possibilities are endless.
Thanks for the picture. It has given me some ideas. Is that angle iron that you used? How close is that to the NSS? I have a hacksaw. No vise and only hand tools the bend. Thanks.
Thanks for the picture. It has given me some ideas. Is that angle iron that you used? How close is that to the NSS? I have a hacksaw. No vise and only hand tools the bend. Thanks.
The flat stock bolted to steering column support almost touches NSS. Then, a piece of angle iron bolted to it and another to the brake pedal arm.
Just wanted to give an update on how I attached the switch. Hopefully the pictures make sense. There was an L-shaped bracket spot welded to the left hand side of the brake pedal assembly. Not sure what it is for. I attached a strip of ⅛" x 1" x 3" piece of aluminum to it and then attached the bracket that came with the switch to to the aluminum. And then lined the switch so that it will hit the brake pedal arm. I need to still attach the the rod from the power booster to the pedal and then it will push the switch into the pedal and close it. I need to adjust it a little. No metal bending. Just metal cutting with a hacksaw.
I feel silly. I used a Ford brake switch from a later-model Ford. I didn't get to make any new brackets or anything. All I did was put the switch where it belongs and run the wires to it.
Next time, I'll remember to make my life more interesting.
I feel silly. I used a Ford brake switch from a later-model Ford. I didn't get to make any new brackets or anything. All I did was put the switch where it belongs and run the wires to it.
Next time, I'll remember to make my life more interesting.
ROTFLMAO. As I read this thread I kept thinking "why not just use a Ford brake switch from any manual brake car from '67 to '72?
ROTFLMAO. As I read this thread I kept thinking "why not just use a Ford brake switch from any manual brake car from '67 to '72?
Because they are the same from '67 clear through 2005 or so.
If fact, the recall for the Taurus plastic brake switch (2000ish) is to replace it with the late-60's switch. Imagine what I thought when I had to do that recall!!
OK, the thought was along the lines of "what in the ever lovin' hell were you thinking when you changed the brake switch?? Now, you're just changing it back!!"
Oh, hell, it's your truck, your money, do what makes you happy.
The switches are different for manual and power brakes (at least on Mustangs) and since manual brakes became obsolete in the mid 70s, it is best to use one that was designed for manual brakes. The throw on the switch is different. It's been too long since I did it, but I put the wrong switch on my power disc Mustang and it didn't work right. I can't remember if they stayed on all the time or didn't come on at all.
[QUOTE=Vandy23;19901073]
Anyone use this type?[/QU
I suppose you could, and it is self contained. But I tell you, every time I've had to install one of those I ended cussing the damn thing before I crawled out from under the dash. Pain in the butt to get e4verything lined up and get the clevis pin through.
I had a few problems with this on my 66 ,when I started the engine the pedal would pull in a little bit bringing on the brake lights. I fixed it by installing a soft return spring to the pedal.
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