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I suggest avoiding kevlar pilot bearing. Dorman 690-039 is a brass pilot bushing.
Your input shaft looks a little worn, but if it is a snug fit in your pilot bushing, you should be fine.
Even the updated Ford clutch fork is prone to failure (the same one you buy from South Bend). It is way better than factory, but it still bends. I welded mine up per the below image. If you don't have a welder, I actually live in Southern Ohio. I can do it for you or you can take it to a local exhaust shop. I wish I kept an image of the fork I welded but I forgot to take it. I will have to remember Friday to get a picture.
I have never had an issue with an updated fork or my sb dual disk, and I am extremely mean to the unit with the type of work and driving conditions I make it endure.
I have never had an issue with an updated fork or my sb dual disk, and I am extremely mean to the unit with the type of work and driving conditions I make it endure.
I have heard of many stock forks bending, but I have only seen one forum post about a bent updated fork.
For the reference of others, the right (old) fork is cracked just below the side ridges. That is typically where these break.
The updated fork on the left has ridges that extend past the weak point. Ford tried to reinforce the original fork by adding a bend/flare to that internal cutout, but it wasn't very effective.
I suggest avoiding kevlar pilot bearing. Dorman 690-039 is a brass pilot bushing.
Your input shaft looks a little worn, but if it is a snug fit in your pilot bushing, you should be fine.
Even the updated Ford clutch fork is prone to failure (the same one you buy from South Bend). It is way better than factory, but it still bends. I welded mine up per the below image. If you don't have a welder, I actually live in Southern Ohio. I can do it for you or you can take it to a local exhaust shop. I wish I kept an image of the fork I welded but I forgot to take it. I will have to remember Friday to get a picture.
Funny, I was thinking about welding the rods in the channel also, but felt Murphy's law would kick in. I wasn't sure if the fork was heat treated. The channels terminating at an offset, makes me think they were trying to evenly spread the stress rather than have it concentrate at one point as the first design did. Why did they omit the rolled inner section on the new design? There's a lot of strength to be had there.
Funny, I was thinking about welding the rods in the channel also, but felt Murphy's law would kick in. I wasn't sure if the fork was heat treated. The channels terminating at an offset, makes me think they were trying to evenly spread the stress rather than have it concentrate at one point as the first design did. Why did they omit the rolled inner section on the new design? There's a lot of strength to be had there.
Agreed. I would guess that the only reason that cutout is present is to roll over the edges for extra strength. The updated fork may as well omit that cutout all together to save on machining cost. Maybe weight is a concern?
With all the stiff clutches some drivers have, the fork redesign and modifications are much needed. The old fork (which I have and modified) is 1/8" steel.
I've got my clutch fork on the welding table and was about to strengthen it up while awaiting the (2nd) new clutch. The fork has been heat treated, and a file won't touch it, so I question whether introducing heat is a good idea even if it is a localized area with the TIG welder. I'm opting out of the pro-reinforcement camp for now.
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