Nice work dirt. x2 on the great weather to work in.

Next is Bone with his report.

 

I'm in rep jail. Do you know what the older heater assembly threshold was new?

 

Is this question directed at me? If so I never had a reason to check. All I can tell you about the factory heater is it was manufactured on June of 2015 in the Czech Republic. Build date of my truck was late January 2016. The replacement was also manufactured in the Czech Republic and I forgot to look for date stamp.

 

I am wondering if the tech made a mistake on my truck. I don't see any drop in performance. i am getting more than 20# of boost. I am going to try and do the drive cycle test to see if it will reset the CEL. If not than new heater will go in when it arrives on Tuesday.

 

It would be easier to test the resistance of the heater with a multi meter.

The connecter is on top of the DEF tank and is located on the driveline side of the tank so it can be checked while in the vehicle. Probe the upper left 2 pins on the male side.

 

Thanks Dirt
P{art comes in today I hope. Will check that connection before I remove the tank.

 

No problem, let us know how it works out for you.

 

Part was on the step first thing. With wrenches in hand i went to work. Not to bad, had skid plate already off. DEF was full not any fun. Used floor jack to lower it out of the truck. In the video it isnt clear how to undo the big white connection from bracket. It slides to the left off a bracket not just pry it up. It has a little catch on the bottom that if you have a small screwdriver than you just put it under where it connects to the other and and grab the connection and slide forward. I broke mine but I was able to put a wire tie on the wires to keep them in place when I put them together. My new heater was cold so I just put it by a heat vent in the house to warm it up. It was very easy to install the heater in the tank. It took a minute to get the old one out and you have to make sure that you kind of make sure when you take the old one out that you can kind of line up the new one the way the old one came out. Makes it easier to snap the new one back into place. I used Vaseline on the plastic part of the pump that goes into the heater. I also used Vaseline on the ring that holds the heater in place. It didn't want to screw back on very nice. Notice where the arrow is pointing on the ring. Make sure that you put it back to the same place as when you removed it. I just did this in the driveway. I also lowered the spare tire and was able to slide it out of the way and still leave it hooked up to the cable. That made a world of difference. don't skip that step. You will thank me later.
There are to tabs on the supply line. One on both sides. Just push them both in and wiggle the line and it should come off. Just be careful so you dont snap it off. New pump is $150 + tax. Remove the electrical connection on the supply hose before you remove that line.
This video was very helpful
I tried to clear the CEL but no luck as of yet. Larry posted how but I had no luck. I did see Clean Exhaust Filter come on. I hope that worked.
I need to get a newer code reader.

 

congrats on the self repair. The code will be something for you to work on, but the issue is repaired.

 

Congrats on gettin 'er done Bone. Good luck with the code brother.

Appreciate the input on the job and video.

 

I've hear from others on the webs that after 3 key cycles the MIL should disappear. I have no experience though so YMMV.

Good job Bone! I tried to warn you about the white connector but maybe you didn't see that post.

 

Nope missed it. It's in the 35's and light is still on. I will try to clear with my older code reader today and see what happens. I ordered a OBD2 cable to hook to my laptop yesterday. Next I will download Forscan and see if I can get rid of the code that way.
According to Larry I needed to get my EGT up to 266 but I have no way to see of mine is that hot or to hot. From what i saw online if you dont follow instructions to a T then it wont work. This should fix the code by itself. it set the code al by itself. I have already done more than 3 key starts.
I will not be detoured. I am on a mission now.

 

To get your EGTS up to 266 won't be that hard if you are driving, just normal driving and accelerating will get it over 300F

 

I just bought a obdlink ex and going to download Forscan when it arrives.
Video was saying to run the RPM's to about 1500 then let the EGT get to 266 then let truck idle then drive 5 MPH till something else happens.( need to watch video again) then get the EGT on a different sensor to 400 something with truck in park. Again I need to watch video again.
I didn't have time to see if my code reader would reset the light but will try today.
Here is the video I was talking about. Now I dont have the message just the CEL

 

Yesterday was a great day. Went to a Blue Lives Matter rally Lots of Thin Blue Line Flags on display. Trump was there in spirit I live in Loon Central so there is that
Best part was my CEL went off by itself. It took a few drive cycles and it finely went off. That was the best part of the day. My OBDLink came in the mail and I didn't have to take it out of the package. I am ready for the next time though.
I am so glad that all that work paid off. This was very easy to do. I never drained the tank. I pulled it out and did it right next to the truck. It was a bear to put it back though. Kind of awkward to pick it up when it was full. I used a pry bar and a 4x4 and got it high enough to put the jack under the tank. My wife was a big help.