I'm noticing a loss of power with my truck. I wouldn't call it "limp mode" because there is no indication or messages regarding "speed limited to 50mph in xx miles" I didn't really notice it while driving unloaded but I can certainly tell the computer is pulling power with 7k behind me. Also the turbo will not boost above 15psi. @ WOT.

 

X2 on what dirt just said. Not limp mode but definitely reduced power with that active CEL on.

 

There has been back and forth debate that there is reduced power for this issue or not and I noticed a minor lack of power as well. I didn't notice it much daily driving but getting to fast highway speeds or dragging a trailer was obvious. I simply reset the DTC each time I wanted full power and mine was good until I shut off the engine. There is no telling how many times I cleared that DTC by the time I got it fixed.

 

Going to the dealer today and get the part. Removed skid plate yesterday. Doesn't look like a big job.
Wish me luck.

 

Good luck! Be sure to post any tips or tricks if you run into problems. I plan to replace mine this coming weekend.

 

i had mine replaced by the dealer with my extended warranty so it was only $100 for me. I asked the dealer what the cost would be if it wasn’t covered by my extended warranty. They stated that it would be just over $1,000. $1,700 seems high.

 

Just wondering, being I'm deleted is this a part I can remove and "GIFT" to someone?

 

Good luck, Bone. Get 'er done good buddy!

Sure would as you're not using it when your truck is deleted. I would think....

 

I removed the skid plate and the back corner wouldn't clear the driveshaft. You would normally have to jack up the body to get clearance but I have air bags and just pumped them up which gave me the clearance. Not bad to remove though.
My DRF tank is full so i am going to use my floor jack to lower mine down. I have the rear fender liners so removing the filler neck will be a challenge but no real issue.
Its going to be a while till the part comes in. Ordered it from here. https://www.oemford.parts/
I got it for $304 + $20 shipping where my dealer wanted $352 + tax = 10%

 

You know what really sucks? About 2 years ago the OEM DEF heater was selling for around $165 at the dealers. The price has almost doubled since 2018.

 

Ya and you got to have it even if you don't live in cold weather. If a block heater isn't standered than why do w need a def heater? I don't think they consider it part of the emissions. I correct me if I am wrong. Don't want any Misinformation out there

 

With a location of where this mysterious part lies I will remove it and gift it to whomever needs it.

 

I replaced mine today since FedEx delivered the part this afternoon and the weather was a nice sunny 70°!

I have an F250 with the FX4 Package so the fuel tank skid plate had to be removed first. I would say this was more awkward to deal with than the DEF tank itself and my DEF tank was almost full.

It took an hour and 15 minutes to get the DEF tank on the workbench and 1 hour to install the new heater, reinstall the tank and skid plate. All in all this is a 2 hour project from start to finish for the average person. The part I had the most trouble with was the large white wire connector that is mounted near the rear brake line mount. I would say I spent 15 minutes watching youtube videos and trying to figure out how to unclip it from the metal bracket. It does not pry out of the mounting hole like the 1A Auto video shows. A small flat blade screwdriver helps to hold the clip open so the connector will slide off the bracket towards the rear. I used a floor jack to lower the tank to the ground, at that point is when the injector line and wire connector can be removed. I found it easier to jack the body of the truck up a bit to give myself a little more headroom between the axle and the exhaust pipe that goes over the axle. When reinstalling the injector line I had to place the tank back on the floor jack to have enough room for the injector line to reach for reattachment. Anyone doing this on the ground might want to have some wood blocks or a floor jack ready in order to disconnect and reconnect the injector line and wire connector.

I had a helper operate the floor jack that made it very easy to make sure nothing was getting stretched or pinched while removing and installing the tank.

The tools I used

Strap wrench
Wire cutters
small flat blade screwdriver
4mm T-handle hex wrench
4" 1/4" drive extension
1/4" ratchet
1/4" drive 5.5mm socket
Trim tool
3/8" drive ratchet
12" 3/8" drive extension
6" 3/8" drive extension
13mm 3/8 drive shallow - I have air bags so the deep socket would not work for the rear 2 bolts of the DEF tank
13mm 3/8 drive deep
15mm 3/8 drive deep - for the FX4 skid plate.


This is a super simple repair and I can't see why anyone would pay $1000+ to have it fixed by the dealer. Quick tip - apply a very small amount of dielectric grease to the two O-rings on top of the heater assembly, it enables the pump to drop into place much easier.

FWI I cleared my MIL before shutting the truck off prior to this repair, filled the tank with 5 gallons of DEF and took it for a test drive. No more MIL with 2 key cycles so far. My old heater was at 3.3 ohms the new heater was 2.0 ohms 2.5 ohms is the replacement threshold.

 

congrats on the repair and the luck of good weather to boot.

 

Thanks! it was much easier than anticipated.