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Add a fresh high side PS line to your list, they are about $10-12. They blow at the worst times. Edelmann makes a great kit to rebuild that C2 pump for about the same cost. Easy easy. Check the brake master cylinder pressure switch too, there is a big TSB update out there for them. Ford does it free or DIY for $20.
Not sure how **** you are about wiring, but buying 20ft rolls of loom in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8's goes a long way on these old rigs. I've replaced about 90% of all my loom, except for the big one coming from the PCM. Most of it fell apart from 25 years of heat cycling.
Not sure how **** you are about wiring, but buying 20ft rolls of loom in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8's goes a long way on these old rigs. I've replaced about 90% of all my loom, except for the big one coming from the PCM. Most of it fell apart from 25 years of heat cycling.
Right now I only have a roll of 3/8 from when I had an issue with the wiring harness arcing and shorting out on the valve cover, but I definitely need to get in there and knock out redoing the entire thing!
Pulling the entire harness doesn't take more than 30 minutes. I pulled mine when I did my injectors to get more room and was surprised how easy it was overall. Then the snowball effect took over and there I was relooming half of it.
So I ran my compression test finally today after rigging up a tester from Harbor Freight. The results were not pretty. Ran the test on a cold engine and ambient temp was 39*. So numbers are lower than on a warm engine, but still obviously not good.
So I ran my compression test finally today after rigging up a tester from Harbor Freight. The results were not pretty. Ran the test on a cold engine and ambient temp was 39*. So numbers are lower than on a warm engine, but still obviously not good.
So things have been pretty hectic lately and the truck has gotten sidelined, but I’ve been slowly acquiring everything needed to swap in the new crate motor. I’ll be keeping everyone up to date on here throughout the process! Tear down will start probably next week.
Alright y’all, I’ve got everything pulled off of the motor. All I have left to do is detach the transmission and it’ll be ready to be put on the stand and broken down and have parts put on the new long block that’s coming in. Any advice/input in the pulling process would be awesome. I’m still trying to figure out what kind of chain to use to pull it. This picture was taken before almost everything was taken off the top end.
I bought a 12v Cummins block a few years back. I used grade 8 nuts and washers/bolts and looped them through the lifting eyelets. I got some orange coated chain at Lowes. Cannot remember the strength of it, but I'm sure it's rated to at least 1500 lbs if not 2000. Lowes cut the chain to whatever length I told them to.
The nice thing about using bolts through the eyelets is it's adjustable if you need to add slack or take away while trying to figure out what height you need for the engine hoist.
Can't remember if you talked about the rebuild, what are the plans for it? I'm excited to see the build up of a fresh clean engine
I bought a 12v Cummins block a few years back. I used grade 8 nuts and washers/bolts and looped them through the lifting eyelets. I got some orange coated chain at Lowes. Cannot remember the strength of it, but I'm sure it's rated to at least 1500 lbs if not 2000. Lowes cut the chain to whatever length I told them to.
The nice thing about using bolts through the eyelets is it's adjustable if you need to add slack or take away while trying to figure out what height you need for the engine hoist.
Can't remember if you talked about the rebuild, what are the plans for it? I'm excited to see the build up of a fresh clean engine
Thanks for the help on the rigging!!
As far as the build goes, I’m going to transfer everything from my current block over to the new long block, but I’m going to add the high pressure oil crossover that I just picked up and an EGT probe finally. Then I’m going to break down the old block, figure out what went wrong, and rebuild it for high HP and torque applications while I daily the crate motor. Once I rebuild my original motor, I’m either going to find another truck to put it in, or I’ll drop
it in Ol Red.
So I went out and bought a donor truck for the 4wd conversion and to take the AC components from. Really thought on it and decided to make this one the new primary and to take all the upgrades off of ol red and apply them to this truck. This will be the new project going forward so I don’t have to worry about swapping to 4wd and pulling the AC components. This will be called the Frankenstein build.
Fenders off and getting replaced this weekend most likely after the honey-do list gets completed. When I picked this truck up, I noticed that it pulled hard to the left when braking...turns out, the driver side front leaf spring hanger for the rear leaf spring is completely rusted through. It’s doing absolutely nothing. The front of the leaf spring is just free-hanging. So that’s in the mail and will be replaced soon too.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
