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Another surging at idle problem

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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 03:18 PM
  #106  
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From: Ponca City, OK
Originally Posted by jstihl
In post number 58 bwst posted a pic of the alternator clip while it's plugged in. When plugged in its the wire on the driver side. Well this is good news at least we know that the Ford service manual isn't wrong, now just have to figure out why we have low voltage. Thanks again for checking that out udsuth78
So yours never gets above 12 even after glow plugs cycle? Have you tried disconnecting the glow plugs and see if it makes a difference
 
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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 04:17 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
So yours never gets above 12 even after glow plugs cycle? Have you tried disconnecting the glow plugs and see if it makes a difference
I haven't disconnected the glow plugs but I have put a multimeter on the GPR so I can see when the glow plugs turn off and then I take my reading. I think with the glow plugs on I was down around 10.7 and then it jumps up to around 11.6 or 11.7 when the glow plugs turn off . do I just disconnect the large hot wire on the GPR to disconnect?
I I did try running the truck without the EBp sensor plugged in and I didn't notice any change at all
 
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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 04:29 PM
  #108  
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jstihl, in my opinion the safest way to remove the GPR and GP's from the equation is to remove the "PCM Control Lead" labeled number 3 in the image below. Just put some electrical tape or something over the ring and keep it isolated from the GPR. This is the ground circuit that the PCM commands to ground or leave open in order to fire or turn off the GP's. This way, you are removing a ground line instead of a 12v hot line. Just like when hooking up a switch in the cab, a ground line is preferred over a 12v hot line. Just for safety sake.


 
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 01:15 AM
  #109  
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There are some connectors on the "I" circuit between each alternator and the PCM. Maybe one or more of these, or the wires between them, are why the voltage does not get over 12V.

Could someone post the connector locations on the truck for the upper and lower alternator "I" circuits circled on the schematics below?


Lower Alternator I circuit




Upper Alternator I circuit
 
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 07:35 PM
  #110  
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Hey guys just wanted to run this by you as a possibility for my problem with surging/ vibrating. I found this thread and the op has the same exact symptoms I am having. I have a horrible vibrating/ growling noise coming from the engine at idle when it goes below 715 rpms. So when the truck rpms are going up and down I get this vibration in and out as the rpms fluctuate which feels like it's surging. Everytime the rpms get low it vibrates and every time the rpms go up it smooths out( a little bit but still vibrates). It turns out the op in this other thread had a bad flex plate that was causing this vibration/ growling sound. He states that as soon as you give it a little fuel the vibration stops just like my truck ( This was the reason I had my tuner raise the rpms up to 730 to try and get out of the vibration zone but now the vibration is getting worse). I did inspect the flexplate/ worm gear about 6 months ago thinking this might be the cause of my vibration but the flex plate seemed ok although there was a definite audible difference when I took the inspection plate of when the truck was running. It was very loud and rackety. So my question is even if the flexplate isn't wobbling very bad could this be the cause of my vibration when the RPMs drop down? Here is a link to the other thread that has the same exact symptoms as mine. he also thought that the noise was coming from the front of the engine like I did. Also as the air has worked out of the hpop the surging is not as noticable but the vibration part is still there. Please let me know what you guys think, thank you
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19586070
 
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 07:45 PM
  #111  
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Did you see my post on the other thread about trying a mechanic's stethoscope to track down your engine noise.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 07:51 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
Did you see my post on the other thread about trying a mechanic's stethoscope to track down your engine noise.
Yes , thanks I will get out the stethoscope tomorrow and go over the tranny. It just makes sense being that the charts show normal fluctuations but on my truck it seems a lot worse because the vibrations are so bad when the RPMs get low
 
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 08:00 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by jstihl
Yes , thanks I will get out the stethoscope tomorrow and go over the tranny. It just makes sense being that the charts show normal fluctuations but on my truck it seems a lot worse because the vibrations are so bad when the RPMs get low
I've also read threads on here let's say a bad torque converter can cause knock misdiagnosed as bad injectors. Not sure if that applies to you but just another kernel of knowledge that may help out.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 08:43 PM
  #114  
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Boy, this seems familiar to me
Pic is of a message I just sent the other day....

Dont know why I typod flywheel, meant flexplate
 
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 06:37 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by ESwift
Boy, this seems familiar to me
Pic is of a message I just sent the other day....

Dont know why I typod flywheel, meant flexplate
After doing some research a broke flexplate seems like it's super common on these trucks. The load changes, weird vibration and idle fluctuations is what I am experiencing. I also read it could be the torque converter. I took the inspection plate off and there is a very bad screeching grinding noise going on. Going to the tranny shop on Monday, crossing fingers I have finally found the problem. It's hard to believe I drove the truck for a year like this and the problem didn't get any worse than it is. After I get this sorted out I will go back to diagnosing the p1105 and p1106 generator dtcs. Thank you guys for hanging in there with me!
 
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 06:42 AM
  #116  
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I find it hard to believe it is my issue, going to take a closer look at it this morning.
Last winter I installed a new flexpate and low stall converter, would liketo think that I would get more then 5k miles.
I have no reliable local shop, so I get to do it all myself....

Hopefully this takes care of your issue.
Keep us updated on what your shop finds.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 07:11 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by ESwift
I find it hard to believe it is my issue, going to take a closer look at it this morning.
Last winter I installed a new flexpate and low stall converter, would liketo think that I would get more then 5k miles.
I have no reliable local shop, so I get to do it all myself....

Hopefully this takes care of your issue.
Keep us updated on what your shop finds.
There is a tsb 99-23-6 for multiple broken flexplates. It's actually pretty common, I found quite a few cases where they only got a few thousand miles or even a couple hundred miles out of a flexplate. Some of the causes was the dowel pins where not there or not long enough for whatever reason. I will try to post the tsb for the other problem parts.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 07:17 AM
  #118  
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I will have to check. Pins and everything seems to line up good. Original e99 flexplate was fine, just wanted to replace with new when I did the converter upgrade.
These are what I used in addation to a JW VB



 
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 10:02 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by ESwift
I will have to check. Pins and everything seems to line up good. Original e99 flexplate was fine, just wanted to replace with new when I did the converter upgrade.
These are what I used in addation to a JW VB


Ok 10-4 I thought your original flexplate broke the first time. Question for you eswift , if I already had my tuner raise the shift pressures in order to get more firm shifts what would happen if I upgraded the valve body to a JW or similar? Would I have to ask the tuner to readjust the shift pressures? I don't know a whole lot about transmissions but I do know there is a way to adjust the valve bodies for firmer or smoother shifts so I would think by changing the valve body I would have to make adjustments either at the valve body or through the tuner? Not sure how that process works
 
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Old Nov 21, 2020 | 10:20 AM
  #120  
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Yes, if you went to a modified vb you would need your tunes to have shift pressures adjusted. Probably back to around stock.
 
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