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Hard Steering

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Old Nov 2, 2020 | 03:03 PM
  #1  
PhilMcC's Avatar
PhilMcC
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From: Huntington WV.
Red face Hard Steering

F150 2004 XLT Triton 5.4L 4Door 4WD, power steering, 291,000 miles.
The steering wheel is very hard to turn, (in spots... easy in spots)
It gets less difficult as the RPMs go up.
I've done a little research and the YouTube guru's say it's the steering shaft.
It looks easy enough to swap out but I have some questions:
  1. Is there a chance that it is something else, and if so, what do I look for?
  2. Why am I finding price ranges from $30.00 to $300.00 in this piece?

I am of very limited funds, thanks to Covid-19 taking my job, and of poor health thanks to many years of self-abuse...
So the least expensive route is the one I like.

I've even thought about, maybe taking it off and cleaning it up with a pressure washer and lubing the knuckles up... just a shot.
If it would help a little and get me through the winter...

Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z7Z...ew?usp=sharing
 
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Old Nov 2, 2020 | 05:15 PM
  #2  
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DEXTERWISE
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I think your power steering pump is failing gradually already.
Here's a test you could perform:
1. Open the power steering reservoir plastic
2. Get a helper to help you start the engine, and rev it to about 2000rpm.
3. Look closely at the power steering fluids in the reservoir, and see if it turbulent.
4. If its turbulent, with the helper still revving engine at 2000rpm, ask him to turn the steering wheel, and see if it's smooth.
5. If its smooth/soft, this confirms that the pump is bad.
6. If it does not get smooth, this confirms both the rack and pump maybe bad as well.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2020 | 10:49 PM
  #3  
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3Prcntr
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Originally Posted by DEXTERWISE
I think your power steering pump is failing gradually already.
Here's a test you could perform:
1. Open the power steering reservoir plastic
2. Get a helper to help you start the engine, and rev it to about 2000rpm.
3. Look closely at the power steering fluids in the reservoir, and see if it turbulent.
4. If its turbulent, with the helper still revving engine at 2000rpm, ask him to turn the steering wheel, and see if it's smooth.
5. If its smooth/soft, this confirms that the pump is bad.
6. If it does not get smooth, this confirms both the rack and pump maybe bad as well.
Wait, what?

So either way something is bad? How the hell do you tell if it's good then? lol.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2020 | 11:48 PM
  #4  
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DEXTERWISE
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Originally Posted by 3Prcntr
Wait, what?

So either way something is bad? How the hell do you tell if it's good then? lol.
You tell of it's good, only if you can freely turn the wheels without much effort, even when the engine is idling, or when you rev it.
1. Start the engine, as it idles, and you turn the steering wheels, it should feel soft/smooth
2. Rev the engine to any RPM, the steering wheel should feel smooth also when you steer it.

Those are the tests.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 08:57 AM
  #5  
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From: Huntington WV.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z7Z...5MJQg6uG6/view

In the video I made, you can see that it gets easier to turn as the RPM's go up.

So, you say... that indicates a bad pump? (That's what I get from what you are saying)
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 09:08 AM
  #6  
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DEXTERWISE
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Originally Posted by PhilMcC
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z7Z...5MJQg6uG6/view

In the video I made, you can see that it gets easier to turn as the RPM's go up.

So, you say... that indicates a bad pump? (That's what I get from what you are saying)
Yes, you're right. A bad pump. A good pump should not be hard, when engine is idling. It should be soft whether you're idling the engine, or accelerating it.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 09:16 AM
  #7  
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Nope, that's indicating the spool in the rack is worn out. These racks were not designed to last 300k. I have replaced way to many of these. The good news is that you can replace the rack yourself easily in the driveway.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 12:03 PM
  #8  
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Lime1GT
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Remove the steering shaft first and check it for binding of the u-joints by hand. If binding, change it. See YouTube videos for procedure, note especially for preventing steering wheel from turning so as not to damage clock-spring wiring. Fix your power steering second if necessary.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 01:06 PM
  #9  
PhilMcC's Avatar
PhilMcC
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From: Huntington WV.
Thanks, Lime1GT.
I was just about to post that.
I'll take the shaft off, (Securing the steering wheel as noted in the youtube video's) and see what it's like.
I found them on Amazon for a lot cheaper than AutoZone, Advance, O'riely's, or Napa. (All within 6 blocks from me)

Thank you all for helping. I'll keep this thread updated.
Not sure when I can do this. Between the weather and my health, it may be a minute or two.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 05:41 PM
  #10  
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From: Huntington WV.
Well, today I took my truck to a friend's house and we were going to remove the shaft and see what kind of shape it was in.
I sprayed a good amount of B'laster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst on the bolts of the shaft before I left for his house. (15 minutes away )
So, we like to never got the top bolt out, and neither of us could get in a position to get to the lower bolt...
But I noticed that the steering was much easier. So we sprayed it some more, then sprayed both knuckles with WD40.
Turning the wheel from one end to the other, over and over.
So without removing the shaft, the steering was greatly improved. I'm talking two-finger turning all the way around.
I checked the fluid while my buddy turned the wheel with the truck running, and I can see the fluid is flowing... (Turbulent) but it does look pretty bad.
I am going to flush it out here soon.
But for now, it's a huge improvement.
I hope this holds for a while... I really have no choice.

 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 09:25 PM
  #11  
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When I had an '04 with the joints on that shaft binding it took a few applications of penetrating lubricant over 3 or 4 days to get it to work smoothly. After that I gave it a blast every time I did an oil change and never had another problem.
 
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