My water meth setup
5 gal ebay fuel cell with custom low level sensor tied into relay that powers progressive controller
Aem water meth filter
Aem 1/4" line
Snow performance pum
Snow performance VC-30 progressive controller
(The map sensor is mounted behind the ac line)
Snow performance solenoid
Prometh 12gph nozzle
Triggered by my 05 upfitter switch #2

I have the controller set to start injecting at 7 psi boost and ramp up to full injection at 17.5psi

Feel free to ask any questions. I love answering them.

 

Toolbox mounted lcd boost display and adjustment display for start and max psi

Snow perfomance solenoid

Map sensor for water meth, and meth nozzle

 

Different angle

05 upfitter switches in the cab in a custom dash mount. I use switch #2 for water meth arming/on/power to controller relay

 

Curious what the differences are if any. Do you get noticeable detonation? Cooler egts? More power? What are your flow rates? Always thought the idea was neato, but my take away has been its a lot of work for the reward, and ultimately could ruin the engine if something were go to wrong.

 

Very cool!

I'm wondering how you plumbed the methanol injection line from the tool box to the engine bay. Did you drill a hole in the bed and run it under the cab?

 

right now I pay almost 10 bux per gallon for Reagent grade methanol.

price has gone up almost 200% in the last year too.

but I guess you can use the low grade stuff since you are just burning it, these systems have been around for Decades and work for both diesel/gas turbo'ed or NA

nice looking setup you have there

 

Very cool setup! How did you make that bracket/panel for the change cubby, those SD upfitter switches look right at home in there. I would not mind to have a high idle and extra lights wired up like that in the future lol

 

@hairyboxnoogle there are several benefits to water meth
1. It stops egts from climbing. They just raise up and plateau. Because there is methanol in washer fluid you are adding a flammable fluid so it produces some heat but due to the water content it still cools egts down more than without water meth
Straight water does the same thing where egts raise up and then plateau but with about a 2-300*reduction in max temp.

Also when injected it increases boost by roughly 2-3psi and it helps increase the speed of the combustion cycle so you start picking up rpms and thus doing faster down the road. And it helps hold egts.

Also washer fluid can add about 30whp.
water is better for towing due to lowering egts, and increasing boost

So for driving around I use washer fluid because I enjoy the power added.

It also works very well as a passing fluid. It gives a sudden burst of power, increase in boost and helps you build boost faster. So when I want to pass someone I flip the switch, hammer down boost shoots up and we move very quickly up and around to pass them.
water meth also because of the cetane value of the methanol it burns after the diesel has lit in the cylinders. So when the meth lights off the piston is on the down stroke. Giving a torque increase but in a very predictable smooth manner
technically it's a torque adder not a hp adder but hp is much easier to quantify than to

Also it helps lower intake air temps because you are spraying a fine mist into the intake manifold that can help draw heat out the air and thus cool the intake air temps down. The lower iats are the lower egts are.

I have no detonation issues.

Gasser turbo vehicles use it specifically to prevent knock/detonation because they can run more timing with it on allowing them to make more power.

Also the reason I use a solenoid(pictured above next to hood hinge) is to prevent any catastrophic failure. It is a electronic "gate" designed not to flow any fluid until energized. It is triggered on when the progressive controller (which powers the pump) is powered

When understood how water meth works, and used properly it is quite safe and very fun. I highly recommend it.

Also I use a 12gph nozzle. And the pump is a 300psi pump but is likely running around 200psi working pressure.

I run the progressive controller because it ramps up pump duty cycle from 20%-100% according to boost. It injects less water meth at lower boost helping match the engines need. It also uses less fluid that way (depending on you you have it setup) and it helps if you turn it on at low boost.

This is where a progressive controller shines Because the nozzle is a little on the larger size I'm not Injecting the amount of w/m that the engine wants at 20psi boost at 7psi. You definitely can but the engine will let you know that you are putting out the flame if you try maintaining full flow at 7psi for a 30-60sec (white smoke, bucking etc)
now if you get on the throttle at 7psi kick it on full flow and engine boost is climbing then it eats it up. And it gives a nice seat of the pants power increase.

 

@lonewolf_
thanks! I really like it

@Olds64
that's exactly what I did.
I ran it down the bed, grounded to the framerail, ran a wire loom for water line to the front, 3 wires for the map sensor, 1 spare wire incase, 1 power wire to trigger the relay for the controller on from the cab. And maybe 1 more spare wire. I dont fully remember. It the. Runs up a little shelf on the cab body underside to hide it. Then up the inner fender to the passenger side heater box/hood hinge where the solenoid is mounted then to the intake where the map and nozzle are

 

@90Ford73

I found this post on Facebook and messaged him about making me one. Iirc $50

I then sent him the upfitter switches and a spare panel for test fitting.

 

Hope that helps

 

Thanks for the answers. I know it lowers detonation in a gas engine, diesel is alltogether different however (obviously) i know if you run too much of the stuff it will rattle hard and eventually break stuff. Waaay back there was a 7.3 psd guy running bunches of it through his obs and it laid the bottem end out for everyone to see, this was ~600whp on a dyno pull, but that was the consensus of why it broke was the water / meth.

 

I plan on doing it one day, but only water for the egt benefits while towing. I have a auber egt gauge that has a built in relay to flip a relay where it can be programmed to come at at a certain temp, vs a Hobbs switch that's boost tripped.

I know if your mix is too much methanol it'll burn hotter and make egts more of a problem, but both water and water meth raise your cylinder pressure, which is harder on bottom ends. That's most likely what made it fail.

I found a plastic 15 gallon tank that fits nicely between the tank and the bed side, just have to rig up some straps.

I've read alot of positive things about the devils own nozzles.

 

Thank you for the pics and detail 03wr250f! Providing I can make something similar to that plate, how did you wire them up? Other than the switches and the box they plug into, that's all a guy should need eh?

 

My guess is the watermeth was simply the straw that broke the camel's back. If the were running a lot of timing in their tune like dp used to they have been known to break rods and if it was close to that breaking point it may have simply put it over the edge.
not saying catastrophic failure cant happen because it does on stock vehicles everyday

But i think that if you listen and watch how your motor responds to injectables, and match your setup for a purpose to the motor.
hence the nozzle size, methanol mixture i use, and why i went to the progressive controller all to make it easier on the motor while still providing the benefits i loved. The whole purpose of me going to a progressive controller was the decrease in cylinder pressure due to the ramping of duty cycle of the pump as opposed to a full on.

I have it wired up to the upfitter relay and when i turn it on it sends power down the wire. That wire powers the solenoid on and keeps going back to the toolbox
it then powers a relay. I used a second relay so that when my tank low level switch drops and breaks the circuit it wont power the progressive controller
the relay controlls power into the controller. The controller has a power and ground for the pump to power and duty cycle it.
it also comes with a 3 wire map sensor that the wiring is quite short. I lenghtned the wire so the map sensor was in the engine bay but the controller is in the toolbox
its fairly simple as far as wiring goes

You will need a pump, a solenoid, and either a controller like i have or a hobbs pressure switch to turn it on at boost
There are tons of write ups online of ways you can do it cheaper than i did. however i wanted components designed directly for this application

Does that answer your questions?