The injectors don’t work like that - but you still could have had a bad injector in that hole.

Was that GP fresh before all of this started?

She’s dead Jim. This is now a forensic investigation. You can do a compression test, but it will just confirm why you need an engine/rebuild. Pressure in the crankcase like that is the result of a fatal injury.

The most likely way ‘overfueling’ one cylinder can hurt is if there was a hydrolock. That said, something is wrong with that injector if it didn’t buzz right and failed CCT. But I’d be real surprised if you get any love from FFD.


Thinking further, it is very suspect that LPOP ‘fixed’ your no-start. Was there wear on the front cover? Obvious damage/wear on the pump gears?

I hate that this happened to you...

 

why would it run better if the valve cover gasket harness was replaced? Wouldn’t that be the cause for over fueling?

glowplug was brand new.

No damage from the LPOP but that was before any of these mods.

what’s the best/cheapest route? Find another motor, swap my HPOP, LPOP, injectors, turbo setup and all that over or do a full rebuild?

rebuild that cylinder? Think the block is ****ed or just a piston?

 

Not sure why VC gasket changed anything.

No. The only way to ‘overfuel’ is a broken injector. Something like a physically damaged nozzle or broken nozzle spring could allow fuel to enter combustion chamber without an invitation. A bad VC harness can cause a poor connection and result in no fuel and failure to buzz correctly.

Did it buzz right and pass CCT, etc after changing VC gasket?

That carbon on GP is indicative of poor combustion in that cylinder. What did the injector and GP that originally came out of that hole look like?

What does the corresponding injector for that GP look like?

I thought replacing LPOP cured the no-start?? Do you think that was a coincidence?? It ‘can’ take a lot of cranking to get ICP to build after changing injectors, etc.

I don’t know the whole story here, but I wonder if there was poor compression in that cylinder prior to injector swap? I put injectors in a truck with a dead cylinder because it did not present any blowby with old injectors - just a dead miss. Puffed like Cheech and Chong with an injector that actually WORKED in that hole.

As far as a path forward, used engines can be found for $1000-2500 depending on miles/condition and what is included (injectors, hpop, turbo, etc). Any 7.3 from ‘96-03 will work.

Budget $2500 to rebuild it yourself. 1/2 of that is Motorcraft rebuild kit (Riffraff is a great source for this) that includes pistons and every gasket, o-ring and sealant you need. The rest of the budget is for machine shop, things like a front cover if yours is damaged, delipping the pistons, welded piston oilers, new water pump, sensors, etc. Expect at least a 0.010 over bore to get a fresh crosshatch and eliminate taper and up to 0.30 over for damage. You can sleeve cylinders if they are worse than that. Coolant cavitation induced damage can be a deal killer for a block.

If I was to buy a reman engine, it would only be from Asheville Engines.

 

I bought an adapter for my compression tester so it can fit in the glow plug hole. I am waiting for that to show up. I can try and find a smaller borescope to see if I can see anything. I am not sure if I should just pull the head to get a full diagnosis of the damage.

 

$1000 for an engine you can’t hear run is risky. I would want to make it run before pulling/installing it. Blowby is THE criteria that matters. Obviously a milkshake in the oilpan is a deal killer, but I’ve seen plenty of 400k mile engines that run GREAT. Of course, I’d negotiate the lowest price for that added ‘risk’. These bottom ends last forever. Pistons crack and valves eventually wear out, but if it runs good and no crankcase pressure - good bet it’ll be fine for awhile longer.

No need to pull head. That f’er is 75lbs and awkward AF to pull in the truck. Plus, it’s highly unlikely you’ll fix what is wrong with engine in the truck. I’ve pulled these engines in as little as 2hrs... There are some tricks I’ll gladly share when you’re ready.

Cracked piston is a common failure mode. It may be hard to see with boroscope....

I don’t totally trust the compression test either. I’ve torn down a few engines that showed low compression (cold, loose engine) and found no evidence of a problem. I’ve also seen engines that allegedly had low compression cylinders that ran PERFECT after fixing other problems. I almost never do a compression test on an engine I can hear run - although that may have saved me some trouble in the story I told above about fresh injectors ‘creating blowby’ ....

International 444 engines from ‘96-03 are also fair candidates. Box trucks, school busses, etc. - All 7.3/444 blocks are the same as far as this swap goes. You’ll use your accessories and brackets, fuel system, etc. I’ve even used a 444 from a pusher bus. The oil pickup and sump were at the ‘front’ of the engine.

 

That sounds promising to pull an engine in 2 hours or so. I have seen guys pulling the cab and all that crap. Not interested in that lol.

 

This was about 2hrs. I nosed into the garage for the video and was under the garage door, so I could not go high enough to clear the header panel, etc and had to take it off at the last minute. That stuff doesn’t have to come off.

You can leave the AC compressor and the PS pump bracket in the truck.

 

did you pull the AC condenser up front? Or just radiator? Hoping to not mess with the AC, it blows cold and hate dealing with Freon.

 

Hey
takes me about 2 hrs to pull cab

 

that ain’t bad, I thought it would be much worse. I don’t have a lift though

 

I specifically do NOT open the AC system. The condenser stays, but radiator and CAC come out.

I also dont open the PS system. This avoids refilling and bleeding that system. I do recommend replacing the pressure hose when you reinstall.





We can’t all be that cool...

But, that just adds 2hrs to the engine pull job.

 

Cyl 2 is ****ed. I would rather just find a new to me motor and swap on my parts.

 

Bummer. That could be a poster child for ether/starting fluid.

At a minimum, that hole would need a sleeve.

 

Damnit, not good.

is that a crack in the bottom right of the picture?

 

The top ring is busted out at the upper part of pic and it looks like the lip is broken in the bottom of the bowl. Likely the ringland parts beat the **** out of the rest of it. I would expect the head to have damage as well.