When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got a bluetooth/WiFi obd2 to connect to the truck and downloaded an app to do the injector buzz test.
cylinder 2 failed, I would have bought motorcraft valve cover gaskets/wiring harnesses but my buddy told me he’s used Dorman with much success, I used quality motorcraft everything so far minus the IPR and Valve cover gasket harness
upon research it seems Dorman doesn’t have the best reputation on that.
also had a ton of codes that wouldn’t show up on my regular scanner but did on that app. IDM, cyl 2 issue, and 5-6 other random things that didn’t seem to be a reason on why the truck wouldn’t run. Maybe it pulled those codes when trying to start it with dying batteries? I’ve seen that happen with GM vehicles where they throw a ton of codes when your trying to get it running on a dying battery.
I think my plan of attack is to find the cyl2 issue, run it, see if the codes come back and go from there
Got a bluetooth/WiFi obd2 to connect to the truck and downloaded an app to do the injector buzz test.
cylinder 2 failed, I would have bought motorcraft valve cover gaskets/wiring harnesses but my buddy told me he’s used Dorman with much success, I used quality motorcraft everything so far minus the IPR and Valve cover gasket harness
upon research it seems Dorman doesn’t have the best reputation on that.
also had a ton of codes that wouldn’t show up on my regular scanner but did on that app. IDM, cyl 2 issue, and 5-6 other random things that didn’t seem to be a reason on why the truck wouldn’t run. Maybe it pulled those codes when trying to start it with dying batteries? I’ve seen that happen with GM vehicles where they throw a ton of codes when your trying to get it running on a dying battery.
I think my plan of attack is to find the cyl2 issue, run it, see if the codes come back and go from there
No buzz from #2? That would definitely cause some of the problem. What was the 5 and 6 codes? The IDM stuff is most likely power related like you suspect. Failed Buzz could just be a plug not quite connected right or something similar. I would pull the drivers valve cover, it's a little easier than the passenger side and you've got to injectors throwing codes there. Ohm the gasket then the harness and the solenoids on the injectors. Like I said probably just a bad connection on something but personally I steer clear of Dorman stuff. I don't think I've ever got something with the name Dorman on it that I considered a quality part. I would double check the torque on your injector hold Downs while you're there and if everything owns correctly dry firing it up and unplugging injectors one of the time to see if it makes a difference. If you still don't find the problem you can always swap number 2 to a different hole and see if the problem follows
No buzz from #2? That would definitely cause some of the problem. What was the 5 and 6 codes? The IDM stuff is most likely power related like you suspect. Failed Buzz could just be a plug not quite connected right or something similar. I would pull the drivers valve cover, it's a little easier than the passenger side and you've got to injectors throwing codes there. Ohm the gasket then the harness and the solenoids on the injectors. Like I said probably just a bad connection on something but personally I steer clear of Dorman stuff. I don't think I've ever got something with the name Dorman on it that I considered a quality part. I would double check the torque on your injector hold Downs while you're there and if everything owns correctly dry firing it up and unplugging injectors one of the time to see if it makes a difference. If you still don't find the problem you can always swap number 2 to a different hole and see if the problem follows
it buzzes 8 times, just not as much as the 2nd one. It’s a super super faint difference. I had to listen 3 times to hear the difference.
Update: tuner was giving me issues. With the PHP hydra removed I got the throttle pedal back. I hit a small hill at 2500 rpm and poof white smoke from under the hood gahhhh! Drive it back home, lower on power, but ran. Smoke was originally coming from PCV and at the turbo downpipe junction.
Update: tuner was giving me issues. With the PHP hydra removed I got the throttle pedal back. I hit a small hill at 2500 rpm and poof white smoke from under the hood gahhhh! Drive it back home, lower on power, but ran. Smoke was originally coming from PCV and at the turbo downpipe junction.
Get any codes with that smoke and power loss? How much smoke? Power loss under load with higher rpm's makes me think intercooler or intake boot.
Do you mean 9? Should buzz all 8, then 1 through 8 individualy for a total of 9.
Yes, 9 total
Originally Posted by udsuth78
Get any codes with that smoke and power loss? How much smoke? Power loss under load with higher rpm's makes me think intercooler or intake boot.
No codes, that is a good point, possibly a blown boot. I just looked and didnt see anything too obvious on a blown boot.
It was pretty noticeable. all from under the hood. When I popped the hood it was tough to tell where it came from, all I know is that I had it coming from the CCV, looked like the turbo downpipe junction and possibly the valley but it could have been blowing all over making it tough to see the source.
Does the engine still sound and run smooth? You can make a boost leak tester pretty easy with an air pressure regulator, a pvc pipe cap, and a couple fittings. Details are in the tech sticky or a Google search will get you there. Just remember to unhook the ccv and plug it. Also start # low and watch out for the tester trying to blow off. You could put your eye out with that thing.
It doesn't run smooth, it idles like crap and has since it was first started and it has had black smoke at idle since the first start up too.
I took the valve cover off and replaced the valve cover gasket with another dorman one (under warranty) as I wait for Motorcrafts to come in. Still has a cyl 2. failure with the new gasket but all 9 buzzes do happen.
I am curious if I have a stuck open injector?? is it possible to stick open from an electrical issue or strictly mechanical? I will start it with the valve covers off to see if anything is obvious.
It doesn't run smooth, it idles like crap and has since it was first started and it has had black smoke at idle since the first start up too.
I took the valve cover off and replaced the valve cover gasket with another dorman one (under warranty) as I wait for Motorcrafts to come in. Still has a cyl 2. failure with the new gasket but all 9 buzzes do happen.
I am curious if I have a stuck open injector?? is it possible to stick open from an electrical issue or strictly mechanical? I will start it with the valve covers off to see if anything is obvious.
Don't put too much weight in those contribution tests. I've seen them wrong way more often than they are right. My original motor had 2 completely washed out cylinders and CCT never consistently showed a failure. You could try using a infrared laser thermometer to check temperature differences on the exhaust manifold. A significantly cooler cylinder would point you in the right direction. If you find any that are suspect, you can swap it to a different cylinder to see if the problem follows. Have you gotten your tuning squared away yet? If not I would square that up first. A comparison might be that you just put a small block in a golf cart, but the computer doesn't know it yet. Good luck keep us posted
I think I got it figured out, I swapped out the valve cover gasket on the driver side (since cyl 2 was failing the buzz test) and it idles 1000% better, I didn't drive it but will today. I will swap out the other side to MC gaskets. So the excessive black smoke tells me the wiring to the injector wiring was grounded out and causing it to stick open. The excessive blow by I now have tells me it was stuck closed, giving it no fuel and then driving it ****ed up the rings or cylinder wall
I plugged the tuner back in and the tunes seem to idle ok and have throttle response but haven't driven it yet.
I think I got it figured out, I swapped out the valve cover gasket on the driver side (since cyl 2 was failing the buzz test) and it idles 1000% better, I didn't drive it but will today. I will swap out the other side to MC gaskets. So the excessive black smoke tells me the wiring to the injector wiring was grounded out and causing it to stick open. The excessive blow by I now have tells me it was stuck closed, giving it no fuel and then driving it ****ed up the rings or cylinder wall
I plugged the tuner back in and the tunes seem to idle ok and have throttle response but haven't driven it yet.
How much blow by are we talking about? I don't think an injector not firing would wipe out the rings or cylinder, especially no more than it ran. Hell you can run these engines with 1 whole bank unplugged without damage. Drive it a while see how she acts, if you're not losing a bunch of oil, or smoking bad I wouldn't worry to much.
Id say I am ****ed by the looks of the glow plug in the #2 cylinder, cant get a borescope down there, my compression tester fitting is too big to fit as its tight around the glowplug.