Guy's,

I'm having considerable difficulty trying to get a 460 back in my '86 F-350 4x4 with a 4-speed. A 460 came out of it, and I put this same engine in another '86 1 ton 4x4 4-speed 14 years ago with little trouble. I don't know what's hanging up or what I'm doing wrong this time around!
First things first. The NP and BW 4 speeds are interchangeable, right? I don't have a different shaft length or spline count do I? (The motor was in front of a NP and the current truck has a BW) If that's not the issue, then I must just not have the right angle with the engine lining up to the tranny and bell housing. And, yes, I used the correct clutch alignment tool for putting everything back on. What do you suggest for picking this thing up and getting the angle right? I've had good luck in the past with small blocks and just a flex plate by going from a front intake manifold bolt to an opposite side rear manifold bolt. Those motors hang "evenly" and you can jockey them a bit. This thing with the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate makes it very rear end heavy, which makes the hanging and jockeying very hard to do. Does anyone recommend those lift slings with the threaded shaft and crank- where you can shift the lift point and therefore change the angle of the motor? Do they work well?
Any suggestions on what I could try next would be appreciated. Thanks.

Steve

 

The transmissionsecond should not be an issue as I pulled a BW T18 and installed a NP 435 in my 81 F100.

You may need to jack up the front of the Trans to get it to line up.
Also turn the motor over by hand to line up the clutch splines.

I have used that tilted and it worked well.
Dave ----

 

How close does it come together before it stops?

 

Guy's

I thought they interchanged but I wanted to be sure. I do have the tranny jacked up- up to where it touches the cab. And I have my chain "slings" on the front and back of the motor so that the engine is slanted also. But, I guess the slant isn't where it needs to be...
I had a rear wheel off the ground and it in gear and had my father turning the tire in an effort to line things up.

I'd say about an inch and a half, maybe, on the come together. Hard to say exactly, but with my "angle" not being quite right, that distance is probably different from the top of the bellhousing to the bottom. The distance I was showing there is why I first thought I had an interchange problem. I thought it had to be a spline issue at first.

Steve

 

Is the ID of the bushing in the crankshaft correct for the OD of the transmission input shaft?

 

It does sound like the input shaft is not going into the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft.

 

Since nobody likes me and I end up having to do these jobs alone, I manufacture helpers. In the case of lining up my 302 and AOD, I took two 7/16" x 3-1/2" bolts and cut the heads off. I ground a bit of a taper on the cut off ends. Screwed them into the top two holes on the block. When I drifted the engine toward the transmission, I first stabbed the two studs into the corresponding transmission bolt holes. This keeps everything lined up.

 

You have that problem too?? It's ok for you to help others but, when you need help......

 

Ha. I'd guess everybody on here probably has that problem to some degree. I'm finding more and more, both at home and at work, if it involves any effort at all, people disappear pretty quickly.

The home made, extended dowel rods is a good idea.

I'm going to insert the clutch alignment tool (which I used on this engine/clutch way back when for the NP) into the engine/clutch that I pulled off of the BW. This will show a difference or not. I should have thought of this idea sooner. I'll let you know what I find out

Steve.

 

I have had situations where the engine and bellhousing were within 1/2” of closing and not wanting to mate but by having someone push the clutch pedal to free up the clutch disc was all it took to bring them together.

 

I have done the above myself.

 

I will have to remember that trick once I get things a little closer.

I will measure the diameter of the input shafts on both the transmissions tomorrow. However, I stuck my alignment tool that fit the NP set up into the clutch/crankshaft from the BW and it would not go in as far as I thought it should have. The splines seem to be the same- the tool would start to slide into them a short distance- but it would stop when the part of the tool that should insert into the bearing would hit the bearing. Well, I'm pretty sure it's hitting the bearing. I will measure the depth the tool is going in also.

I did purchase an engine lift/load leveler device which should get me the correct angle, but we need to figure out what's going on with the pilot bearings first.

Steve

 

The pilot bearing and spline count should be the same between theT18 & NP435 as I just did this swap a few months back with no issues.
I did not remove the clutch / PP or bearing I used with the T18 as it was all new and only had maybe 3000 miles on it before the swap.

Crap just a thought I did not put the NP435 input shaft into the clutch assy. as I added the over drive and it went into the clutch and the NP435 into the over drive unit.
BUT I did take my old clutch disc and fit it on the NP435 input shaft so I know the splines were the same and I think I measured the pilot part of both before the swap and OD was added and was also the same.

If the motor is out and on the floor pull the clutch assy. and see if the disc will fit the input shaft and measure the pilot part & bearing size.
Maybe even try the "install shaft" to see if it fits the bearing.
My guess is the disc has slipped and why the install shaft will not fit in.
Dave ----

 

The disc slipping might explain the tool not fitting completely! Didn't give that any thought. The splines look to be the same- the tool will slide into each disc. But I will take the disc out of the BW mated clutch and make sure.