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There are a couple wiring questions I have about this removal process. It looks like my temp gauge wires, run into the computer harness? The temp gauge has never worked. Is this correct? snip.......
From post number 89
Find the original mating plug for the 4 pin connector downstream of the splice shown in post 87.
Unwrap the black tape on the engine side. Split out the oil press and water temp wires and reconnect to there senders.
From post number 89
Find the original mating plug for the 4 pin connector downstream of the splice shown in post 87.
Unwrap the black tape on the engine side. Split out the oil press and water temp wires and reconnect to there senders.
The wires for the temp should not be the same one used for the gauge.
The computer temp wires go to the Tstat housing right?
If yes you can unplug them.
That thing one on the fender I think is the MAF sender and can be remover.
Now that PVC & wires will be a little tricky but if the go to the computer out they come and we will have to reply the PCV
Dave ----
Are you saying I need to hook the PVC wires to something else?
Are you saying I need to hook the PVC wires to something else?
No because if what you are saying is right. PCV wires go to the feed back computer, then you would not have any way for the PCV to work.
NOW WAIT!
The PCV I don't think is on them wires the charcoal canisters are IIRC.
I am on my phone out side so it's hard to see just what you got there I think it's the canister purge.
We can also got that to work too.
Dave ----
No because if what you are saying is right. PCV wires go to the feed back computer, then you would not have any way for the PCV to work.
NOW WAIT!
The PCV I don't think is on them wires the charcoal canisters are IIRC.
I am on my phone out side so it's hard to see just what you got there I think it's the canister purge.
We can also got that to work too.
Dave ----
Okay, I'll leave the PCV wires alone for now. I don't have any charcoal canisters, that stuff was removed before I owned the truck.
Needless to say, anything that is going to the computer harness will not work right now because I've removed the computer. The truck seems to be running fine, but I haven't been driving it much.
Okay, I'll leave the PCV wires alone for now. I don't have any charcoal canisters, that stuff was removed before I owned the truck.
Needless to say, anything that is going to the computer harness will not work right now because I've removed the computer. The truck seems to be running fine, but I haven't been driving it much.
I don't think them wires are for the PCV as there should not be anything controlling it.
The PCV should be in the rear of the valve cover and a vacuum line to the base of the carb or to the intake manifold vacuum tree as I don't remember now and to lazy to check my truck right now.
Them wires I think are for the canister purge a carb bowl vent purge.
If you have the vacuum routing sticker on the radiator support you can follow it and see where the hoses got to for both the PCV and the purge system.
Also if you follow the vacuum lines to the solenoids you can see where they go and report back so we can tell you what needs to be done but as a guess anything to the intake for vacuum can be removed and capped.
Picture of my vacuum routing
I don't think I have a vacuum diagram like that, but I'll double check.
If you look at my pics below, I've numbered some components.
So, the main computer has been completely removed. There was this other little unit next to the computer I hadn't noticed before, in the 2nd pic. After removing all the wires connected to the computer, and removing all the wires from the engine bay that were no longer hooked to anything, all I have left is one red wire going from the engine bay to this little unit. If you look at my numbered picture, each of those areas has one wire, spliced into the red wire, going into this unit in the cab. All the other wires have been cut.
For the vacuum hoses on #1, the top hose connects to the front top of the carb, next to the fuel line. I believe the lower fat one connects below the carb on the passenger side somewhere. For #2, one the vacuum lines connects to the base of the carb on the passenger side, and the other connects to the front of the EGR valve (I think that's what it's called).
I'm guess I can remove this unit in the cab, and any wiring for it? Is that part of the computer system?
That small unit in the 2nd picture is the EEC relay shown in the diagram below in the upper left area of the diagram. It powered the computer system when the key was turned to run. You don't need it.
#1 area has a solenoid inline with the vacuum hose. The solenoid was either controlled by the computer or the keyswitch. This is a venting system for the carb. It's all messed up now, you can thank the previous owner for that and taking the charcoal canister out. Not sure what you can do, except go to the junkyard and get a canister and some of the plumbing and hook it back up in some form or fashion. You don't have to worry about it and can unhook it from the carb unless you do not like the gas smell after you stop the engine on a hot day. I would not pull a vacuum on that carb port on top when the engine is running.
#1 area has a solenoid inline with the vacuum hose. The solenoid was either controlled by the computer or the keyswitch. This is a venting system for the carb. It's all messed up now, you can thank the previous owner for that and taking the charcoal canister out. Not sure what you can do, except go to the junkyard and get a canister and some of the plumbing and hook it back up in some form or fashion. You don't have to worry about it and can unhook it from the carb unless you do not like the gas smell after you stop the engine on a hot day. I would not pull a vacuum on that carb port on top when the engine is running.
I've had an issue a couple of times, where, after I've been driving around town for a while, and I turn off the truck, there's a noise like pressurized air releasing from somewhere in the engine bay. Do you think this is related?
So, you're saying I can disconnect the top hose in #1, and cap it on both ends?
You said #1 hose runs around and hooks to the top port on front of the carb. What you can do is take the hose out completely, and cap the connection off on top of the PCV valve. You will have to leave the port on top of the carb open. If you block it off, it can make it hard to start in the summertime. And that is where the gas smell will come from if it bothers you. If not don't worry about it. If you hit the brakes really hard, you might get a little fuel splashing out of that port also, but it rarely happens you have to come on the brakes pretty hard for it to do it.
there's a noise like pressurized air releasing from somewhere in the engine bay.
Does your truck have air conditioning? Mine does, and makes this noise after shutting off the engine. It's the refrigerant pressure equalizing between the high and low sides of the system.
It is very simple to rule this out. Just go for a drive with the AC off and see if the noise is still present.
Does your truck have air conditioning? Mine does, and makes this noise after shutting off the engine. It's the refrigerant pressure equalizing between the high and low sides of the system.
It is very simple to rule this out. Just go for a drive with the AC off and see if the noise is still present.
Ok guys, I've took out the 300/6 and the computer stuff in my 84. I got to checking wires for lights and etc... but I noticed the red wire that comes into the cab from the coil wire is really hot 🔥. Truck runs great but this wire has me concerned with the amount of heat that it has. Its almost hot enough to burn your fingers.
Its the same wires that in the pics from the post above. But its not hot on the outside of the cab.
Iall have to get a better pic on the side wire in the morning
Ok guys, I've took out the 300/6 and the computer stuff in my 84. I got to checking wires for lights and etc... but I noticed the red wire that comes into the cab from the coil wire is really hot 🔥. Truck runs great but this wire has me concerned with the amount of heat that it has. Its almost hot enough to burn your fingers.
Its the same wires that in the pics from the post above. But its not hot on the outside of the cab.
Iall have to get a better pic on the side wire in the morning
The big round black thing is a splice, do you have 3 wires in and 1 wire out???
Or, do you have 2 wires in and 1 wire out?
The pink ish looking wire is the resistor wire, it will get warm, but just warm.
Are you using a round duraspark coil? If you are using a HOT coil with low primary resistance, well it would cause the resistance wire to get hot.
Please measure the coil positive voltage, key ON, engine not running. It should be 6 to 8 volts, give or take a little.
Jim
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