When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You don't need to worry about trying to figure out the wiring diagrams, a lot of info I put into a post is for those that that might read this in the future, with there DS2 conversions. Just follow the directions in post 89.
After you get it running we will test/check the voltage at the coil positive, key ON engine not running. More on that later... after you get it running.
Here is a closeup of the splice. It is definitely only two wires. One is pink/green, one is br/pink. The br/pink splices in to the pink/gr. I'll follow this wire off the plug and see if I can locate the splice towards the engine you're talking about.
I do have a multimeter. What should I be looking for? Sorry, I try to use the diagrams but they're mostly Greek to me.
Thanks for the help.
The other side of the coil goes to the Green wire on the Module... The positive and negative side of the coil is marked on the coil...
Find the original mating plug for the 4 pin connector downstream of the splice shown in post 87.
Unwrap the black tape on the engine side. Split out the oil press and water temp wires and reconnect to there senders.
Follow the wire leaving the splice (reference: see post #70, S216) into the 4 pin connector and out the engine side. keep following this wire toward the engine. At some point this wire will enter another splice, take a photo of the splice the cut the wire close to the splice. Strip the end and crimp on a butt splice. The other side of this butt splice will be the RED/GREEN wire from the Painless harness, which runs to the Coil Positive. See the drawing that Painless supplied you.
That is it... just one but splice and your truck is ready to run... I am assuming you plugged in the 3 wire connector on the distributor and the 4 wire connector on the ignition module.
Do you have a volt meter to do some voltage testing. I would feel a lot better knowing everything correct. But you can still go ahead and start the engine if you want.
Jim
Another question here for clarity. If I trace the pink/green wire towards the engine and find a splice, you're saying to cut this wire before the splice, and splice in a red/green wire on my painless harness which is connected to the coil +. Are you saying to totally sever this wire ahead of the old splice, and leave it severed from the old splice, just spliced into the coil from there? If so, why do I need to follow it around towards the engine and find the splice? Why not splice into it right off the plug? I'm looking at my Painless diagram, and it shows the pink/green wire coming off the ballast resistor to the coil.
Another question here for clarity. If I trace the pink/green wire towards the engine and find a splice, you're saying to cut this wire before the splice, and splice in a red/green wire on my painless harness which is connected to the coil +. Are you saying to totally sever this wire ahead of the old splice, and leave it severed from the old splice, just spliced into the coil from there? If so, why do I need to follow it around towards the engine and find the splice? Why not splice into it right off the plug? I'm looking at my Painless diagram, and it shows the pink/green wire coming off the ballast resistor to the coil.
Yes you are correct, you can just travel down the wire a few inches and cut it, the only reason to go clear to the splice point is just to make the wire longer, giving you more wire length to work with if needed.
The painless wiring diagram I was looking at had the wire color as RED/GREEN, which went between the ballast resistor and the coil positive.
You are very very close to getting this running. If you have alligator clips on your meter, you can leave some of your splices just temporary, just twist the copper together, and then clip the meter on the splice. This would be to the coil + and a good ground somewhere from the engine block. You can then monitor what's going on when you turn the key and then crank it.
Okay, I crimped a splice onto that wire. I didn't find a splice along it. It folds off the harness with three other wires into this connector below. I'm not sure I've ever had this hooked up.
I tried to start it, no dice. It sounds like it wants to fire up. It speeds up when I'm cranking and working the gas pedal, it like it's about to fire up but doesn't catch.
Get your meter out (testlight would be better). Put it across the coil, the red lead or probe to the + and the black lead to the minus. When you crank it the testlight should blink on and off if everything is working. It will be tough seeing this on a digital meter but you could try it. If the coil is turning on and off, you should have spark.
Make sure you put the minus lead of the meter or testlight on the minus of the coil, NOT a metal ground somewhere. The minus of the coil is not ground.
Get your meter out (testlight would be better). Put it across the coil, the red lead or probe to the + and the black lead to the minus. When you crank it the testlight should blink on and off if everything is working. It will be tough seeing this on a digital meter but you could try it. If the coil is turning on and off, you should have spark.
Make sure you put the minus lead of the meter or testlight on the minus of the coil, NOT a metal ground somewhere. The minus of the coil is not ground.
Using my analog multimeter, I get about 7-8 volts with the key in on, and it drops to 5 when starting. It looked steady, not pulsing, but maybe I should have looked at it a bit longer.
I tried my digital testlight. The light was solid red with the key on, and flashing when starting.
The analog multi-meter may have been sightly wiggling when you were cranking. If the testlight blinked, you should be getting spark. That means the pickup in the dist is sending a signal to the module, and the module is turning the coil on and off. That is all this whole mess does, is turn the coil on and off at the right time to produce a spark at the right time. You may need to twist the dist a little bit one way or the other and see if it will fire. Before you crank it again, take the aircleaner off and then look down the carb throat (you may have to pull the choke door open) and while looking down the carb, open the throttle wide open. You should see a strong stream of fuel squirt into the engine. If not, you do not have any fuel making it to the carb or through the carb.
It runs!!! I can't believe it. I just rotated the dist back a bit, and it fired up. It was idling really low, so I kept moving it back, and it's idling pretty good now, though a little rough.
I guess the next steps are to get a timing light and dial in the timing, then adjust the carb? I've never used a timing light before, so I'll start doing some research.
Once I'm confident it's running good, I want to start pulling out all the unneeded wires and hoses. Any advice on doing this safely? Am I correct that I can get rid of the whole computer now? I have the harness running into the firewall to the left of the brake booster. Does most of that run into the computer?
Prior to starting test, remove small red wire (R/LB) from starter solenoid. The Ignition system must be all plugged together ready to run for testing. It would be best to have 2 people for this test.
1: Turn key to ON position. Place volt meter across battery. This will be max voltage reference ~ 12.5 volts or so.
2: Move positive meter lead to Coil positive. The voltage should be lower, ~8 volts or so.
3: Move key switch to START position. Voltage should increase to close to 12 volts.
Starter Solenoid info: It is mount to the inner fender wall near the battery. Just follow the positive lead of the battery to find it. Removing the small red wire will keep the starter from turning over the engine.
Your truck should only have one small push on connector, labeled “S”.
It runs!!! I can't believe it. I just rotated the dist back a bit, and it fired up. It was idling really low, so I kept moving it back, and it's idling pretty good now, though a little rough.
I guess the next steps are to get a timing light and dial in the timing, then adjust the carb? I've never used a timing light before, so I'll start doing some research.
Once I'm confident it's running good, I want to start pulling out all the unneeded wires and hoses. Any advice on doing this safely? Am I correct that I can get rid of the whole computer now? I have the harness running into the firewall to the left of the brake booster. Does most of that run into the computer?
The safest thing to do is find the computer, unplug the large plug, and pull that huge wad of wires through the firewall. Then slowly work that out of there. You will have a few wires that need cutting over near the battery solenoid area, but most everything else will go to some piece in the engine compartment that can be removed. Be careful, some of these wires are in with alternator wires and gauge wires.
The safest thing to do is find the computer, unplug the large plug, and pull that huge wad of wires through the firewall. Then slowly work that out of there. You will have a few wires that need cutting over near the battery solenoid area, but most everything else will go to some piece in the engine compartment that can be removed. Be careful, some of these wires are in with alternator wires and gauge wires.
There are a couple wiring questions I have about this removal process. It looks like my temp gauge wires, run into the computer harness? The temp gauge has never worked. Is this correct?
I'm adding a couple photos below. There is this unit mounted to the side of the engine bay next to the starter solenoid. All of the wiring for this goes into the computer harness. Can I completely remove this?
And I've got these wires coming off the PCV valve, going to the computer harness. Safe to remove?
The wires for the temp should not be the same one used for the gauge.
The computer temp wires go to the Tstat housing right?
If yes you can unplug them.
That thing one on the fender I think is the MAF sender and can be remover.
Now that PVC & wires will be a little tricky but if the go to the computer out they come and we will have to reply the PCV
Dave ----
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
