http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uplo...jpg?1554863941

 

Great, thanks for that. This is embarrassing. I went to look at the pieces in my painless package, and a set of very detailed instructions fell out of the cardboard insert in the top of the package. This is making a lot more sense now. I plugged those three plugs on the factory harness back in, and connected the Painless plug to the module. According to the instructions, I need to connect two wires to the starter solenoid (easy enough), mount the ballast resistor included with the harness, and connect two of the Painless wires to that. The problem, is that I also need to run another wire from the starter solenoid to the ignition switch, and another wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor. Neither of these are included with the harness. Getting the wires is easy, but I'm not sure how to run wires to the ignition switch. There is already a wire running off the S terminal of my starter solenoid, I'll see where that goes, maybe it's already connected to the ignition switch? Regarding the ballast resistor wiring, the instructions say I need to connect a 'switched ignition power wire' from the ignitions switch to the resistor. Is there something in the engine bay I can splice into for this? Do I need to run a wire through the firewall to the ignition switch?

 

You can follow the painless set up if you want or you can actually do it properly..

 

Everything you need is over there at those plugs. The ignition switch power is at one of those plugs and the factory resistance wire is at one of those plugs.

You had your new module plugged into a plug, did this plug have a red/lghtblue wire and a white/lightblue wire? If so, that is the proper plug for ignition power for the module, plug it back in.

Then you need to hunt for the plug that has a red/lightgreen wire going to it from the truck. If you find this plug, unplug it, you need to get rid of the old wiring. You will have a bare plug with no plug to plug into it, because painless did not give you one. I would see if a male crimp fitting will plug into the plug where the red/lightgreen wire is located. If it will, then plug in there with a new wire and hook it to the + wire going to the horsehoe connector of the coil. I think it will run. That is the only thing missing that I saw from your previous post.

The painless harness is made for hotrods and any brand retro fits. Your truck is already wired for the duraspark II system, you just didn't get enough plug ins from painless. They want you to hardwire the other stuff in place, but you already have it there on the fender.

 

Okay, I plugged the module back in to the plug coming off the truck, confirmed that the wires are red/blue and white/blue.

I you look at my picture, you'll see this two wire plug on the fender. On the side of the plug running into the firewall, the wires are green and black, and on the side running off the male end of the plug, the wires are red and green. Is this what I'm looking for? So, I should crimp up a new male side plug to fit into the green/black side running into the firewall, and then connect the new wiring to the + post on my coil? I'll be connecting both wires to the + post?

 

The RED and LT Green on wire is the one you want according to the Ford wiring diagram on the firewall side of the harness the coil side of the harness the wire is BROWN and PINK again that is according to the Ford wiring diagram.. You can double-check this by checking the voltage on it 7-8V in run 12V in start. Using this wire you do not need the ballast resistor that came in the kit.
That wire will go to the Coil + The other side of the coil will go back to the ICM and is the green wire on the module.

 

Are you saying that the red and green side of this plug is what I need to plug in to, and run this to the coil? The black and green side runs into the firewall on the right side of the brake booster.

 

What side of what plug ? Sorry but that does not tell me anything.

Again The RED and LT Green on wire on that firewall side of the harness is the one you want. These colours are according to the Ford wiring diagram, on the coil side of the harness this wire is BROWN and PINK again that is according to the Ford wiring diagram. You can double-check this to make sure you have the right wire by checking the voltage on it 7-8V in run 12V in start. That wire will go to the Coil +.
Using this wire you do not need the ballast resistor that came in the kit.

The other side of the coil (Coil -) will go back to the ICM and goes to the green wire on the module.


Not sure how I can explain this any more clearly or simply.

 

In post #80 you have a plug that is circled in red. It has 2 wires (green and black) on the firewall side and one green wire running toward the engine. This plug is what will feeds the factory tach in the instrument cluster. Do you have a tach? If you don't you will not need to use this plug. On the painless wiring diagram, the yellow wire, labeled "tach signal" would connect to the single green wire exiting this plug.
But if you don't have a tach you don't need a "tach signal".

Please unwrap the black tape going toward the firewall about 6 inches or so. You will find a large round black splice. Unwrap the tape a few inches past this so you can see the wire colors going into the spice. Post photos of the splice. It might be 3 wires in and 1 wire out.

Jim

 

This was in part why I said keep the TFI coil as it was already wired and you did not have to do anything other than run the ground to the module...

 

So that plug with the green and black wires on one side, is actually a red and a green wire on the other side. The red wire tore out when I was removing the plug.

I do not have a tach.

I will post a pic of the splice later today. Thanks

 

I'm sorry, you're right, that is a single green wire running off that plug. The broken red wire is from the other plug that was removed, the other side of which is now plugged into the module.

I cut the tape back on the firewall side of the harness. Pic below. There is a splice, with a red/pink wire spliced into a red/pink wire. This runs into the other four wire plug.

 

Are there 3 wires going into the splice (firewall side), and is one of them brown (BR/PK)?
For reference see post #70, S216. This is just to the right of the resistance wire.
The resistance wire (R/LG) will have a light bit of a rubbery feel to it.
Maybe a better photo of the wires going into the splice, as I can't tell if there are 2 or 3 wires.
Jim

 

Find the original mating plug for the 4 pin connector downstream of the splice shown in post 87.
Unwrap the black tape on the engine side. Split out the oil press and water temp wires and reconnect to there senders.

Follow the wire leaving the splice (reference: see post #70, S216) into the 4 pin connector and out the engine side. keep following this wire toward the engine. At some point this wire will enter another splice, take a photo of the splice the cut the wire close to the splice. Strip the end and crimp on a butt splice. The other side of this butt splice will be the RED/GREEN wire from the Painless harness, which runs to the Coil Positive. See the drawing that Painless supplied you.

That is it... just one butt splice and your truck is ready to run... I am assuming you plugged in the 3 wire connector on the distributor and the 4 wire connector on the ignition module.

Do you have a volt meter to do some voltage testing. I would feel a lot better knowing everything correct. But you can still go ahead and start the engine if you want.

Jim

 

Here is a closeup of the splice. It is definitely only two wires. One is pink/green, one is br/pink. The br/pink splices in to the pink/gr. I'll follow this wire off the plug and see if I can locate the splice towards the engine you're talking about.

I do have a multimeter. What should I be looking for? Sorry, I try to use the diagrams but they're mostly Greek to me.

Thanks for the help.