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I would leave the vacuum can unhooked till you get it running good and set the timing and take it for a spin. There can be a minor problem if you are using the original computer carb. Sometimes they do not have the proper timed ported vacuum port that these engines run good with. They are hard to tune if you hook the dist vacuum to the manifold.
On my 2bbl computer controlled carb, I found the proper vacuum port factory capped off. I got the cap off and had the port I needed. I am not sure if the 1bbl computer carbs have the proper port anywhere. It will be a port that at idle, will have no vacuum. It will only have vacuum when you start revving the engine. If you are planning at a later date to put regular carb on it, or you are going to do that now, then you will have the proper port. Like I said it will be the one with no suction at idle.
Just leave it unhooked for now, you don't need it really, it's just for fuel mileage and efficiency.
It says to run vacuum off the carb to the dist? I assume I'll be able to remove some of the other vacuum hoses from around the carb once I get the new dist working? Can I just run a hose from the vacuum tree under the carb to the dist?
6 of one half a dozen of the other. it's same work no matter what coil you use as you have to do the same things no matter what one you use. Using your old TFI coil will give you a hotter spark and you do not need to buy a coil.
6 of one half a dozen of the other. it's same work no matter what coil you use as you have to do the same things no matter what one you use. Using your old TFI coil will give you a hotter spark and you do not need to buy a coil.
Fair enough, I appreciate the input. I was going to try keeping the old coil, but it sounds like wiring this back up will be easier with the new coil, and I've already purchased it anyway. I'll feel a little better having the new coil in too, as most of the electronics and wiring on this truck are in bad shape.
Fair enough, I appreciate the input. I was going to try keeping the old coil, but it sounds like wiring this back up will be easier with the new coil, and I've already purchased it anyway. I'll feel a little better having the new coil in too, as most of the electronics and wiring on this truck are in bad shape.
To be quite honest the original TFI even with it's age is a superior unit than the new bar coil in all aspects. Especially since the quality of some these new bits can be suspect. As long as the exterior of the TFI coil is not cracked it will be as good as the day it was made. And wiring in the new coil is exactly the same as the old coil you are just using a different connector for the coil.
I do not see it in your pics but be sure to run the black wire from the dist back to the module or you will cook it. As that is the system ground for the electronic ignition system.
Okay I installed the new coil, completely unplugged the feedback harness from the main harness, and plugged in as much of the Painless harness as I could. If you look at my pic, you'll see this leaves two open plugs on the main factory harness, and one unused plug with open wires on the Painless harness. I plugged the modulator directly into the factory harness. Does this look right? Both the wires running from the dist to the modulator, and the wires running from the coil to the modulator, have green wires. Do I need to do anything with these unused plugs? Should I try and fire it up?
I am thinking the painless harness does not have all the original connectors. See if the coil is hooked up not at the horseshoe connector, of course you have it plugged in. But the other end of the wires.
I am thinking the painless harness does not have all the original connectors. See if the coil is hooked up not at the horseshoe connector, of course you have it plugged in. But the other end of the wires.
The coils is connected to the module via the horseshoe connector, and connected to the dist via the spark wire. There isn't anything else on the coil to hook up, no wires, just the post on one end which are all hooked up. The horseshoe connector wires run into the module.
So, there are unused plugs on the main factory harness, and there is the unused set of wires and plug on the harness, but between the module, the dist, and the coil, everything on those parts is hooked up (except the vacuum can on the dist).
Okay I installed the new coil, completely unplugged the feedback harness from the main harness, and plugged in as much of the Painless harness as I could. If you look at my pic, you'll see this leaves two open plugs on the main factory harness, and one unused plug with open wires on the Painless harness. I plugged the modulator directly into the factory harness. Does this look right? Both the wires running from the dist to the modulator, and the wires running from the coil to the modulator, have green wires. Do I need to do anything with these unused plugs? Should I try and fire it up?
I took a closer look. Some of the wires coming off the crescent connector don't run to the module. There is a red and a brown wire that fold off into this other bunch coming from the unused plug. Maybe these are supposed to connect to the unused connectors on the factory harness?
The Painless harness is not plug and play, you will need water temp and oil pressure wires from the original harness.
In my opinion it is easier and cheaper to just wire in a GM 4 pin module then to wire up a Painless harness.
Regarding post 65: The 2 original plugs in the red circle.
The 4 pin one supplied Coil positive, water temp and oil pressure. The other plug might be the feed for the tach, I am not really sure on this one as the tach plug usually has 2 wires, one black and one green, I only see one wire on this plug.
The other extra plug on the new painless harness (shown in the red circle with the loose wires) was for powering the DS2 Ignition module. You are currently using the original trucks harness to power it now.
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