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I didnt realize the 6.0 was standard v-band i guess. Still though, 58mm compressor and 66mm turbine arent large. My s362 with the small turbine is obviously a 62mm compressor, and 68mm turbine. The 6.0 turbo has a better trim imo, but further lends itself to being on the small side. The "adjustable A/R" does give some wiggle room, but that turbo is designed to make ~20psi on a 6.0L engine or roughly 350hp. From what i remember they can be pushed to around 400whp, but on the considerably smaller engine. When i was drowning in math trying to pick a turbo, i had decided that 110cc would push it hard, but it would work. At that time though i was planning on going 150cc in the future. I had looked at a he551ve, but decided it was going to be more work than it was worth. On top of all of that one has to bear in mind cylinder pressure, and too much boost too low on an engine susceptible to head gasket failure. Last but not least, the issues vgts have with actuators and / or sticking unison ring. At the end of the day i decided it wasnt worth the work to put on an undersized turbo just to have an exhaust brake. As far as controllers go, i was hoping to find something self adjusting. Preferably not electronic, something like an air cylinder, or even some kind of spring arrangement. Never found anything that worked acceptably except for electronic, and those were 1200-1500. Im not in anyway knocking anyone thats running one, quite simply i just decided it wasnt for me. Ive second guessed that decision more than once, part of that is one of the reasons ive not hooked up a drive pressure gauge because im not sure i will like what i find, but may very well explain why it doesnt want to keep pulling past 2700. Thats a lot of air to move throught a 68mm turbine and a .91 housing. The upside is i clear smoke by 1800 empty, i push 10+ free revving to 4k, lack of response isnt a problem i have.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, the 6.0 turbo isn't too small for an idi, I would even say with a 110 pump, will find out with a 130 myself..
As it sits now I have no back pressure issues to tell me it is too small, nor any egt issues you usually get with a exhaust housing that is too small. It will clean up my stock maxed pump no problem however we'll see what it does with the 130 pump. When I did my research it seemed the he351ve would have actually been a smaller turbo. It's been a long time since I've compared them though. Holset and Garret also measure the housing volume/flow differently. Not all manufacturers are the same trim/trim. Kinda like when you buy shoes.
Even if it was made for a "6.0l" engine, air flow through differing motors is not dollar for dollar to put it simply. Modern diesel engines move more air, sometimes ALOT more air, you have to think stock they have two of each valves vs one. People can make up to 600rwhp on the stock turbo with nothing but a bolt on compressor housing and wheel ($400) and bigger injectors/tuning. I think there is plenty of head room to have with this turbo in an idi application.
High boost/low rpm can and will kill a head gasket, but if you don't dial the vgt too tight I don't see it being a concern. I did it with factory 7/16 head bolts and they held 10/15 psi sub 2000 rpms, building at least 10psi by 1200/1300 rpms, but that's also part of the reason I went with the 9/16 head studs as extra insurance. I can tell when I dial it too tight when it starts choking out the motor on the top end, but the bottom end power is unbelievable. Even though they recommend 1:1 or 1.5:1 drive to boost pressure ratio that doesn't mean everything. Down low even if it's 2:1 or 3:1 it makes WAY more power. Just doesn't like it about 2300ish. I run my turbo at 40-55% most of the time, so there's plenty I can still dial it open. I plan on probably doing the upgraded cold side after I get the 130 pump.
As to reliability issues I will say this, the holset uses a stepper motor and a different vein style entirely, much harder to control but it is doable. The 6.0 powerstroke only uses an oil control solenoid, very simple to control, and the unison ring sticking isn't exactly your problem as much as a wore out unison ring sticking is. All of the unison ring/turbine housing fingers are also easily replaceable/available. It's 3.5"v band as well on the exhaust side, just a 2.5" boot type on the compressor, I cut that one off a set of bad 6.0 up pipes, then added two more to my up pipes where they are easily removable so I can work on things without cussing myself or having to change gaskets every time I loosen it. You can get the weld on stainless flanges with a clamp for 15-20$ each shipped.
You don't have to sell it to yourself that it's not worth it, you have a very popular turbo set up very well and from what you say makes very impressive power
I just really wanted an exhaust brake and some whistle, and it ended up being rather simple although a different build. It would be TIGHT if even possible back in the valley where your bigger wheeled bw turbo fits.
Do some research if they offer a ten blade turbine for your turbo, I know they sell them for the hx35/40 aftermarket and they may for yours too since that's a popular turbo. It also frees up a little room in the housing.
I'd really like to know what your drive pressure is, simply just to compare it with mine. It doesn't have to be perfect for you to still make plenty of power.
Personally I think the he551ve would be too big to function as much of an exhaust brake if not too flat out big to build much of any boost unloaded and all but wot driving.
That's part of the reason mine works so well is I can really dial it down. You'd be better off with just a butterfly in the exhaust.
Originally Posted by lonewolf_
easy enough to control them manually.. I've posted schematics for it before also DRV101 and a TPS using a VVV.
no need to write a program to do it Arduino but that is easy enough too. with the Arduino you could at least monitor position and pressures on a Display.
A audrino with a display would be very nice, as well as free up several if not all my gauges if I wished it to. You can get all kinds of different sized screens for them which I really like!
Well being able to tune on the fly, you can surely get it a little better. As i understand, stock theyre high because of how theyre setup to minimize lag and soot, not to mention going through cats and dpfs. Would love to hear what it sounds like. Trying to remember which turbo dirty diesel had on his.
Well being able to tune on the fly, you can surely get it a little better. As i understand, stock theyre high because of how theyre setup to minimize lag and soot, not to mention going through cats and dpfs. Would love to hear what it sounds like. Trying to remember which turbo dirty diesel had on his.
He351ve is what 91dirtydiesel had
Depending on what the housing is set at it sounds different. But for the most part just lots of whistle, and kinda a cross between a cummins and 6.0 drone/tone wise.
Still haven't had a chance to have anyone ride with me and video, but I've been putting the miles on it.
I've honestly just been really greatful to have my work truck back, and done right to where when I do stand on it I don't have the worry about the head gaskets holding. I'm still a bit nervous about what a bigger pump will do though.
But yeah, I've been driving it and so far so good. Haven't noticed any oil consumption yet, blow by is very minimal..
It's plenty of power 1st-3rd, but after that you can feel more fuel would help. Egts have been staying in check rather well too. I definitely recommend the intercooler to anyone who has a turbo, but just know you don't NEED IT, it's just nice to have driveabiliy wise.
Also temp wise it runs the same it always has even with the 7.3 head gaskets that are missing the two coolant ports the 6.9 had, apparently the reason they ditched them was because it created a weak spot in the gasket. I didn't plug them off or anything, just slapped the mahle gasket on. Didn't even use the copper cost this time since they're already supposed to be coated with basically the same thing.
I guess this thread is all but done, I'll try and get a video up, and then maybe some updates once I get a bigger pump. But I'll probably start a new thread for that specifically for the 130 pump and how it works on an idi since it's the biggest you can safely go on stock rods.
That's good to hear DOC! Its a good feeling when everything is done and she rolls out when you mash the skinny . It'll be interesting to see how that 130 does paired with that vgt; or vice-versa lol
That's good to hear DOC! Its a good feeling when everything is done and she rolls out when you mash the skinny . It'll be interesting to see how that 130 does paired with that vgt; or vice-versa lol
It'll be interesting to see if my stud job by hand holds up to the abuse or not. Clutch is rated for exactly what the truck will be making so it should last at least for a little while.
It'll roll some smoke if you really push it, but it cleans up pretty quick and is easily driveable without smoking. I need to dial the timing down a notch as it's a bit up there atm, sure is fun when it pulls all the way to the governor!
I don't really have a heavy foot, most of the time I'm putting around like grandpa, but every now and then when no one's around I give it an Italian tune up via 1st-5th
thanks for linking me to that thread DOC, what an adventure most of its above my pay grade but i learned a lot and glad it worked out well.
Not a problem, I feel like I'm pretty terrible at making build threads compared to most, but I try to show what I did and any tricks or pointers to it that I can think of..
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. It'll be interesting to see how that 130 does paired with that vgt; or vice-versa lol 
most of its above my pay grade but i learned a lot and glad it worked out well.
