I've seen shims used behind the input shaft housing to compensate for end play. BUT that was not a normal thing and isn't on any Diagrams I have ever seen.

I think some folks add the shims if that front housing has wear and allows the input shaft to move in and out ... the thing is it should seat against the input bearing outer race retainer Ring IIRC or on the outer race itself. of course with clearance for the gasket

 

I understand what you mean, luckily with my other housing there's no play or else I would have had to figure something out. I think it was walking toward the flywheel and not close enough to the shift collar to properly engage.

 

Okay, so good news, bad news and the surprise I was mentioning.

Good news is engines back in and purring like a kitten. It's got much more power and torque off the line, just let the clutch out and she goes even with my tall first gear, 3.55's and 33" tires. I'm so happy to hear it run. Only hitch was a leak from the block heater. THE ONLY THING I DIDNT TOUCH. No amount of rtv could get it sealed and they didn't offer one locally so I just used an 1 1/2" rubber freeze plug. Leak free now

Bad news is the trans problem is worse. It won't go into fourth at all, just grinds. You can put it in stopped and let off the clutch the smallest amount and it throws it right back out. It's just odd how it was all working fine before the truck went down... honestly feels like it's not engaging all the way. Possibly a bent shift fork? May pull it and find out i dunno. A bit out of steam at the moment.

And the surprise, are you ready guys? Are you sure? Check this picture out....

Old 7/16" stud on the left, new 9/16" stud installed. 70% more clamp load and are torqued per arp spec at 180ft/lbs. This should be the end of my headgasket issues even if I go with a bigger pump I can run stock compression....

So now I've got to find a transmission. Either a 4spd, zf5 or zf6 (what I would prefer) ahhhh if it's not one thing it's another.

Glad that I can finally say this build is done. It was quite the chore, and expense. But I did alot of things to avoid unnecessary expenses and the stud upgrade believe it or not was cheaper than getting a 7.3 in good shape, or sleeving down a 7.3 block to 6.9 for my rotating assembly since I already had alot invested in this motor.

I know I'm not the first to attempt upgrading the stud size, but I'm probably the first to go through with it. Wish me happy boost

Bonus pics


Comparison

Installed



I'm using a HF 1 ton engine stand, it's not perfect, and a bit hard to rotate, but it worked fine. Better than a $350 Napa one I used years ago. I couldn't even rotate the engine on that one. I didn't use the lock pin that came with it as there's too much slop, just used an old 3/8" bolt and it hit the hole every time.

If any of you are in Texas and have a 4x4 manual trans, pm me! Cash in hand or swap for other truck/guy stuff.

 

I swapped a ZF6 into my 93 last year. I really like it. Took a good bit of work but was worth it. Unfortunately I never found the time to put together a build thread, but have a few pictures someplace and aspire to if I ever get the motivation and time. If you do a lot of towing, or maneuvering, having reverse and first together like the ZF6 if a godsend for quick shifting back and forth.

 

Yeah I really wanted a zf6 but I couldn't find one, ended up snagging a zf5 out of an f-superduty that seems to be in really good shape.

Also ordered a valiar 350/700 clutch/flywheel.

 

nice on those over sized studs did you have to drill the heads ?

 

Yes, also had to machine out around the rocker posts for more room. I don't have a mill, but a drill press with an end mill bit did the trick, better than I expected actually.

I moved the head by hand as if it was my x/y table, drill press got locked at the right height.

Even though the end mill was chicom it did a really good job.

It was tight and I really don't think there's any safe way to go bigger than 9/16, washers were basically 3/4" vs 1/2" of stock.

 

I thought that might be the case, I can see by the one large PIC of the head where it looked like you did clearance work.

I've used end mills in the drill press before too, it's generally hard to get the right speed so you end up with a lot of Chatter but it works in a pinch
especially with an older press that is made out of Real Iron not like these newer presses that are made cheap, sure is nice to have a Cross slide table too, But one has to do what one has to do

 

Just a late 90's Delta, nothing real fancy but definitely metal in the right places!

For the speed I just cranked it up all they way, seemed to chatter less, I also spent thirty minutes that night cleaning metal out of my nose. Idk why I never think to wear a mask when I should. Id love to have a mill with water to at least keep the shavings down.

Waiting on the clutch now, it's coming from here in Texas so fingers crossed maybe it'll be here tomorrow or Saturday??

Hopefully this will be the end of the project for awhile.

Oh and an update on the 4spd, it did still have end to end play, just not easily noticed with the input shaft installed, I put a shim in front of the bearing just to see and even though it's not proper it took all the slop out of it.

I would run it as is, but I've already got this five speed and I can always keep the 4 as a backup.

I was always meaning to buy one used and rebuild it for the shelf but in the five years I've owned this truck I've never came across a 4wd t19 for sale anywhere local...

 

I don't use flood cooling anymore... I use Kool Mist https://koolmist.com/general-purpose-w-tank

 

I'll do some reading on that!

 

there are some cheap alternatives and you can make your own tank
I only have the single Kool Mist unit but since I can only use 1 machine at a time I just move it to what ever Machine I'm using at the time... works great with my metal cutting band saw too ...

the air blowing the liquid really cools it down especially in low humidity ...I mix the liquid with plain water but I use a bit more Lube than the instructions call for as when using the Instructions I had a little rusting problem.. using extra chemical solved that issue ...

 

Day before Thanksgiving I ordered a clutch and flywheel from valair, they had free shipping for Texas customers and it ended up around $590 after tax. Supposed to be good for 350/700 but I find that a bit skeptical.

It got here Friday and I wanted to have the truck going this weekend but they send me the wrong friction disc.

I talked to a localish clutch shop. He went over with me what my options are and even with the zf5 there not much. I'd have to have a custom flywheel made to go dual disc, and there's just not enough end to end room for a dual disc without.

He quoted me about $360 for the best clutch he offered that you can still tow with. We'll see what the valair disc looks like when it gets here.

I managed to snag a luk flywheel and clutch with the zf5, so I'll probably at the very least have this guy rebuild it to keep on the shelf for the 89 which is still dual mass. It looked pretty shiny up in there when I got it so hopefully a clutch job won't come anytime soon.

I was very pleased with this guys knowledge and he confirmed my suspicion, that valiar and South bend for the most part just sell rebranded off the shelf stuff for one hell of a markup. The same 850$ southbend setup he can build for $600ish and have it even a bit stouter.

 

That's awesome about upgrading the stud size, extra peace of mind and much more power potential! That's not cool about Valair and Southbend if they do that, I thought they were both pretty good.

 

Too bad I was talked out of upgrading the rods when I was rebuilding the engine...

But I doubt I'll need anything stouter. I don't think the 150+ pumps are very streetable/towable.

I definitely trust this local guy more than either valair or southbend, they're just a name from what I gather, I'm sure they do some r&d on what they sell, but I'm sure it's also trumped up a bit by what this guy said.

Disc didn't come in today. We'll see what it looks like when it does. I noticed the disc they sent me the first time looks identical to a luk disc.....

I also read apparently all the pressure plates are basically the same, just a matter of who's name if any is stamped on it. My boxes from valair have been painted (yes painted) black, which tells me they're generic boxes, either for them to put stuff in, or maybe these kits come from someone else and they're too cheap to slap a logo on it. Absolutely nothing was labeled or stamped anything at all other than a sticker for the flywheel side of the disc...

My exedy kit (partner company to southbend) that I ran with the t19 actually had a wider friction disc and pressure plate than what I've received so far. Pressure plate was stamped luk

The local guy told me even though the pressure per sq inch is lower with a wide plate and disc, they don't heat up as much if you do slip it and seem to last ALOT longer than the narrow stuff.

He basically said that #3200 pressure plate is about all you can fit inside the zf5, I could theoretically stack two engine adapters and move the trans back an inch, and that might be enough to do something different, but id need a custom input shaft so it stays in the pilot bearing. Either that or have it built onto and remachined. Either of which would probably be fairly expensive.

He said southbend has custom flywheels made for thier dual disc setups that hug the motor more so you get more room. That and the flywheels are stepped to swallow the first disc and intermediate plate. So it's basically the same protruding length as a single disc.

I really wish I could get a twin disc clurch with steel backed organic discs but it looks like it's out of the equation for now. Until I get another wild hair and want to attempt the impossible once again..