that's where an Automatic would shine

 

It would still swallow up plenty of money building an e40d to handle more power and not overheat while doing so

 

well yes probably more money.... but you wouldn't necessarily want to go E4OD or C6... there are other industrial options

I was just saying you would for sure have more towing power with an automatic than a standard is all.

 

If I was 2wd I would have probably already swapped in something like a 3x4 Mack or a Allison mechanical, was that what you meant

I've looked at the sae adapters on idis before, I think a person could cut off the mounting ears from it and build some sort of trans mount. Otherwise it would be almost impossible in a pickup because the exhaust manifolds go the other way, which would contact the drive accessories, can't use pickup manifolds because of start location

I know you're probably thinking why in the hell anyone would want a twin sticker in 2020, and honestly, they're narrower, built like a regular transmission therefore easy to rebuild.

I don't have the wheelbase to go industrial with a regular cab 4x4. If I did I'd get a divorced 203

It's alot of work, but hey, build what you want so you don't have to settle for what you buy.

Thankfully I don't tow much, but if I had a rig that would tow better I probably would find myself doing it more.

Some pictures I managed to snag while I was checking this thing out, it was at an auctioneers place, he claimed nobody ever bids on it. I wasn't financially available to put an offer on it and it didn't seem like I would do me much good with the way everything was setup. Motor had been spray painted too.





Unsure of what transmission that is, I'm assuming a Clark or something of the sort.

 

Well thats a bummer.... Id had the idea of pinning the steps onto a SMF .. but apparently that doesnt work. I have nothing but sheer contempt for valair, mild distaste for southbend. Spent some timing emailing and talking to them before my build about dual discs. Guy at valair actually laughed at me, infered that im an idiot, and pretty much hung up on me. Southbend took me a bit more seriously but were dicks about it. All said and done, 2k gets you a flywheel. Dont have a clutch shop like youre talking around here, at least that im aware of. I have a 4R100 sitting in the shed, but i just dont want an auto. I also figure that even if i did manage to build / afford a dual disc, the ZF would probably **** the bed, so ive learned to be content with the 110cc. If a person could somehow get ahold of the manufacturer of the psd dual disk flywheel and somehow get one undrilled... theyre considerably cheaper due to the volume. My LuK is holding up just fine, and its not like the 110 doesnt have power, but more of coarse, is always better. Ive walked a couple 5.9s and a 6.0 with tuners, pulled away from my grandparents 2011 psd and i was 800lbs heavier. Hindsight, wish id have spec'd my hotside a bit differently, or just went with the s258 since im not likely to upgrade.

The 150cc is fine, the 180 is a bit less friendly.

 

From what I gathered he said something along the lines of you could put stands on the flywheel* and run a couple discs with a lever style pressure plate. The only problem is not enough room in the bellhousing.

I reached out to a few different companies last night but none of them made custom input shafts, only sold performance ones. But....I had an idea, cut the stock on, extend it an inch and have it friction welded. So I also reached out to several places that do friction welding but none of them do one off stuff, only production runs of products.

But I think one could possibly have the input lengthened and friction welded, stack two spacers on the back of the motor, and maybe have enough room for a dual disc clutch. Even if you had to stack three adapters, it would technically work as long as the input shaft was long enough. Driveline modifications would be minimal or non existent at one inch, maybe just a slight trim and reweld at two.

Still waiting on my replacement disc

 

See now IF you had a good Lathe you could do that (friction weld) ... thing is you could make your own input shaft then do the heat treat.... but I digress

you could add a spacer to the crank and not have to modify the input shaft ... possibly.

 

See I never thought about the second part, but if you spaced the flywheel back you would end up with the same bellhousing room. I got excited for just a second to the idea of something that simple...

But yes...IF I had a good lathe, and the plan is once a shop is built to store it to have a lathe and a mill. I'd love to have a powered rotary table where I could turn my own flywheels as a lathe big enough to chuck one up would be out of my price range not to mention power requirements.

Back to the drawing board for now, but I really appreciate the input, I'm sure some company could make me a custom input shaft, but weather or not it would be cost effective is another story.

 

what I meant by a spacer was possibility of placing it in the center of the flywheel to just move the Pilot bearing back... but I don't know what the normal distance is from the original position and the disc hub itself.. you might get 1/2 inch maybe ?

image for example...

 

Yeah if it's a relatively easy 1/2" then it's a half inch. I'm not sure how much room would actually be needed. The local guy seemed to think it would be next to impossible room wise and kind of gave up brainstorming after that..

Still no clutch disc

 

Still didn't show yesterday so I called them, somehow they lost the box, so he boxed me one up and I got it today. Also turns out they're only an hour away, wish I would have known this as I would have just driven up there and saved all the hassle...

Disc was a copper or brass backed disc, local guy told me steel backed is the best. This is also the only clutch valair sells for an idi. I just slapped it in...

Got the trans under the truck then had to figure out a way to get it up on the trans jack. Couldn't find any ratchet straps, just a couple of the straps missing the binder so I tied one side to the frame, pulled it as tight as I could and tied it. Worked pretty well actually



Got it on the trans jack and strapped down, ended up having to pull the carpet back and loosen most of the tunnel hat. Then I was able to jack the trans high enough and got it stabbed first try, all the bolts went in easily by hand. Sure was glad it didn't fight me...

I will have to modify the tunnel cover a little bit, but it should work and hopefully my early style transfer case shifter will work, it looks like it should. My trans came from a 93, 92+ don't have trans tunnel covers, so I wasn't able to get a zf specific cover.

Now, onto the cross member, I believe the zf one was a 2wd member, since even though the trans was 4x4, it was a 2wd f-superduty. So it doesn't have the lower portion for the front driveshaft, nor the low profile driver side crossmember horn.

So, the t19 mount, bolts right to the zf5, and let's me use the t19 member. But I'll have to drill new lower holes on each side, the uppers catch on one and I'll probably just do that for now until I can get my hands on a ninety degree drill..

Got dark and cold so called it a day, clutch is in, trans is stabbed and bolted, slave cylinders on, and reverse connector is plugged in (it was the same)

Til tomorrow..

 

I'm a little confused about your problem here. ZF5's are all basically the same except for some upgrades in the later units that strengthened them for a greater torque. The physical dimensions was the same, although they speedometer hole is missing from 92+ or so housings (not relevant to 4x4 models) So any trans tunnel cover for a ZF5 would be fine.... I'm assuming you mean the part that bolts to the floorpan with the right sized hump for the shifter (and less hump for an auto).

 

I had a t19 before, hence the difference

 

Got the frame drilled for the crossmemeber bolts, I didn't have a 90 degree drill for the ear pieces, so I just lined the crossmemeber up where they caught the rearward frame bolt, with the forward hole, so it has most of the bolts in it now.

Drug the transfer case under with me and put it on my chest and stuck it up there. Mated up without a hitch, even the dowel was in the right spot. The zf also has a dry tailshaft, my transfer case has an input seal, so these should never accidentally share fluids.

The pivot bolt for the 4wd shifter was standard threads, the zf seemed to be metric, luckily it was a 9/16 coarse so I jusk took the tap I used for the bigger head studs and ran that in there and it bolt fit and held. It didn't take much off. I'm thinking it must have been m14 with a very similar pitch.

This is the t19/bw1345 shifter mated to the zf, plenty of clearance



Had to bend/tweak the original linkage piece


The original linkage is straight, and the offset for the shifter of the zf is spaced out towards the frame more. I tweaked it like this and got lucky that it fit perfectly. Transfer case shifts nice and smooth, no binding.

Got the drive shafts mounted up and was down to the last thing. Exhaust that I removed..

This reinforcement ear had to be removed so my hot pipe would fit (custom hot pipe)


When I originally tried a banks turbo kit, I couldn't for the life of me bend the firewall lip down. A year or so ago I remember having a conversation with an obs powerstroke guy, he told me he cut slots in the seam with a sawzall and that make it easier to fold it down so I also did that for extra clearance, and I'm glad I did because the zf bell housing sticks out/back more than the t19.

So, my intermediate pipe fits nicely. But won't line up with the lower pipe, so tomorrow I'm going to put it a mile down the road to the welder and add an extension piece to that and then it'll be all buttoned up and ready for round two.

Hopefully this transmission ends up being good. If not, at least all the conversion stuff is out of the way.

Also it fits TIGHT to the original floor pan, I used a pry bar and tweaked it for as much extra room as I could get. If I have to add a zf floor pan later I will. For now it will look all factory,



I was also able to mate the shifters together, I removed the upper t19 shifter, beat the square part flatter on one side to oval it, it fit real snug, I then drilled a hole in the t19 shifter for one bolt to go through the zf5 lower.


So tomorrow I have to pick up some stuff off the truck, throw the kickpanels and floor mats back in, weld up the exhaust and then I'm hopefully finally done.

It's also gonna take a good day or two to get all the tools organized and back into this truck.

 

Yah I get that, but still confused at what you said... unless you mean the donor truck didn't have the piece for the year it was...? The ZF5 started in either late 87 or 88 and ran through into powerstrokes up to maybe 98? I know the ZF6 showed up in 99 when everything got a redesign.