DarkoverCaste - where in TX are you ?

 

So good news! Was doing some reading up and don't know how I didn't realize that my cylinders are glazed over and I needed to get that off to see what I've got.

One guy was using steel wool and wd40, that left scratches so I couldn't tell. Used wd40 and a brass brush and this is what I got..



I think it's plenty good to ball hone and rering with custom filed rings. I will need some good standard bore 6.9 pistons though..

Passenger side didn't look as bad though



They also do have head damage though...

But yeah, rod bearings looked great and the mains were only down to just a really small spot in copper. The crank looks all shiny too





Sounds like I need to get online and start ordering parts...

Thinking headstuds,
7.3 rod bearings for the rods I wanna get modified,
new pistons and wristpins,
.20 over rings that I will file to fit,
New main bearings
Engine gasket set
Front and rear main seal
Possibly freeze plugs

Should about do it.

 

I could believe that. When my van was NA, I often wouldn't even slam the accelerator, cuz why? You could put it at 1/3 throttle or WOT, you were going to get up the mountain at the same speed anyway.

Contrast that to my turbo van.... Now i'm constantly givin' her WOT cuz why not? It's fun to drive. I can keep up with LA traffic with this old van.


So I'm probaby causing premature wear like you are describing because I'm not babying the van anymore.

 

Ordered all the parts that I "think" I need yesterday.

Also ordered some goodies to have a custom intake built, Chinese intercooler piping kit (already have PSD intercooler)

While I'm waiting on parts I'll be working on the input shaft of the trans, need to pull it for a bad 4th gear synchronizer, happen to have a whole spare input shaft I'll probably swap over, as well as a bellhousing that isn't cracked.

I'll also be messing around with trimming the core support for an intercooler. Hopefully I can kill two birds with one stone on this build and have it all where I want it.

I got ahold of Justin at r&d and he said the studs won't hold past a certain point and the rods will hold past the studs so I'm just gonna do a general rebuild, with custom filed rings, studs, custom intake and intercooler. Should be a good work truck when I'm done.

Need to order some cera-kote and I'll be ceramic coating the pistons as well. Should be a fun little motor when it's done. Safe and can't be hurt. We'll see how she performs with a refreshed motor and intercooler!

 

Sorry just now saw this, I'm in central

 

do you just use the C-186 or do you also use the C-110 ?

 

I ordered the V-136 (oven cure)

Others have used the c-186 (air cure) but the oven cure is what I was recommended by Justin at r&d, says he has really good luck with it.

Now, this will add material to the pistons, I wonder if I need to get them milled a bit first? I wouldn't think it would add that much, but cera-kote recommends 2 coats that will net you 1-2mm (.040-.080) yikes....

All the guys I've seen do them on YouTube just do one light coat and then bake them...

You do have to media blast with 100grain aluminum oxide first, but that gives me an excuse to pick up a spot blaster as they're handy to have around.

Looks like just the piston coating will likely turn into a half/full day affair, but it'll be peace of mind.

One pint was $80+$20 shipping, one pint should do at least a couple sets of pistons I hope....it was either that or a 4oz "tester" for $35 and I was worried if the 4oz would be enough or not...

HF has a touch up gun for $35 that has the correct .08mm tip for this stuff so I'll probably pick that up as well why I'm there.

Man there went another $100 bill...

Wonder if I should just cancel the cera-kote order and just not even fool with it..

 

Interesting, we had several and never a problem one with them until the 4960, great tractor after they replaced the defective clutch under warranty. Our 4640 had around 22k hrs, all it did was rip, plow and play in silage, the 4250 didnt have to work as hard, but still 26k hours. My grandpa has a 1266 that has almost 50k hours on it... nobody ever believes me. Used to sit at the lake for weeks at a time pumping water. Nothing major ever done to it, theyve parked it a few times, but they end up pulling it out of retirement occasionally when their new junk breaks down, big ole whiff of ether and away she goes.

As far as seeing crosshatching and assuming youre good, thats not likely the case, but at least its not clapped out. If you recall, i specifically pulled a great running low miles 7.3 to build for my 92 because i didnt want to have to bore. 120k, with lots of miles being pulled behind a motorhome, still had .005" of taper, cylinders looked brand new, IH specs .007" max taper before rebore. If i were you, i would save my money on the rods and put it towards parts or pump or something. Judging by a few other builds, a 6.9 will lose the gaskets before the rods, even with studs, also, the psd rods are $$$$ to have balanced, think mine was $488 just for balancing. I was going to have a bunch of stuff ceramic coated, specifically the pre cups, but no one local could do it, and i didnt trust DIY stuff for the inside bits so i just left it, not planning to push the egts hard so shouldnt be necessary, just wanted it to run a bit cooler.

 

IF you have a Ridge then you have a Taper, you can gustimate it from the ridge.... think Triangle

you probably want to ridge ream it at least and run the the hone a few passes using Crisco

 

[QUOTE=hairyboxnoogle;19507833]Interesting, we had several and never a problem one with them until the 4960, great tractor after they replaced the defective clutch under warranty. Our 4640 had around 22k hrs, all it did was rip, plow and play in silage, the 4250 didnt have to work as hard, but still 26k hours. My grandpa has a 1266 that has almost 50k hours on it... nobody ever believes me. Used to sit at the lake for weeks at a time pumping water. Nothing major ever done to it, theyve parked it a few times, but they end up pulling it out of retirement occasionally when their new junk breaks down, big ole whiff of ether and away she goes.

Interesting the hours on those tractors.
I have a big thick repair manual I got back in the 70`s on IH trucks. Don`t remember the model it covered.
But I remember reading that one hour of operation on the hour meter, is equal to 35 miles of driving.
Now that is a lot of miles if you work it out.

Would be interesting to have an hour meter on our 6.9/7.3 to see the hours they rack up say from a
new rebuild.

We had two new Mack 3 axles 10pd Road Ranger trans back around 72. The Tach had a meter like an
Odometer and recorded the revolutions of the engine. Something like every 100K revs it would add one
number.

It is not the miles driven but how many times has that engine revolved in those miles.

Iam almost to 303K miles and wonder the revolutions and hours it has racked up.


OK now back to our regular scheduled program.


Charlie

 

I ended up talking to both Justin and Wes Paul and they both did tell me the studs are the limiting factor so I chose to stick with the rods.

Cylinders didn't have any ridge at the top so hopefully they'll be fine. I used a brm hone with atf and washed the hell out of the block with both degreaser and then soapy water and then rinsed thoroughly.

I got the crank in the other day with all new mains, I couldn't find a set of 6.9 main bearings in STD so I went with a 7.3 set, only difference is the thrust bearing won't fit the cap because of the little metal tab location, I ground it off, it's a thrust bearing and I doubt it will be going anywhere..

Yesterday I filed all the rings to the bores. Went with .016 top, .020 middle, and .010 oil, probably is the ring set I got has a 5/32 oil ring.....I've checked three different pistons from three different motors and they were all 7/64, so Monday the seller is supposed to get ahold of Hastings and see if they can get me a set of oil rings that are correct, if not summit has some for $200

Kinda dead in the water for now. I'll probably work on getting the front cover on, water pump, oil cooler, and reseal/resorting the head and may do a little polishing while I got them off. Nothing crazy just if I see something that I don't like touch it up a bit.

Justin said I could run up to his 90cc pump and be fine with my setup, he said boost isn't what will pop the gaskets, it's the extra cylinder pressure from adding more fuel than the studs can handle so I should be good to go for now and if I ever need a pump it's only $690, he steel sleeves his advance piston bore so it should last along time.

I also decided against the ceramic coating, it seems like a good idea in theory, but for something that I'm mainly building for longevity I can't find any information on how long the stuff actually lasts, I imagine once it flakes off you can kiss the cylinders and rings goodbye.

 

Yeah, if no ridge then pretty much no worries .... and yeah ATF is a good honing lube too.
I use the old Sunnen Hone with my Antique Van Dorn 5/8 drill, the Ball hones are nice too for just Glaze breaking..

 

I could have just removed the glaze with a brass wire brush and some wd40 like I did on one cylinder to see the condition of it, but since I wanted to rering I needed to add crosshatch back. My international manual actually recommends a ball hone if you're just reringing, so that's what I used and it seemed to work pretty well.

Tomorrow we'll see if the seller can get me the correct oil rings or if I'll have to order another set.

 

I used up the better part of my adult life doing complete overhauls on the major brands of diesel engines and none of us ever touched the shop ridge reamer in at least the last 20 years. I always figured it was due to much better engine block/cylinder liner material. Prior to that, piston rings hung up on the ridge so bad it had to be reamed first in order to pop the pistons out of the block.

 

Yeah my old motor had at least a .020 ridge, it was fun getting the pistons to jump, of course it helped that the rings were shot.