When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Has anyone used the prothane bushings for their transfer case? The problem that I am having is with the large gap on the inside of the upper piece. When you put on the washer and tighten the castle nut, it will tighten beyond the cotter pin. Heres a pic of the inside upper piece and the lower coming through the mount.
The next pics will be of the one that came off, top and bottom.
Just wondering if anyone else had this issue and if they just sent the wrong parts. This is part# 6-1601 from prothane which says for up to 1976 f-250, I dont see how it works like this.
The old upper could be re-used and it would function fine or a few of the original sized washers in the new upper would take up space so everything would snug up. Jst curious what others did if they had this problem.
I wanted to get that back in today to see how pretty it would be with the first part back in. Oh well, its on a dolly underneath the truck for the day now. Its like the inner part of the lower bushing could be longer through the mounting bracket so you get a little crush and everything is solid. Was hoping someone had been there done that. It wont be a hard fix I dont think. It was already too late for phone calls as well. Thanks for chiming in.
I put my bushings in tonight, as I needed to drop the t-case to put new shift shaft seals in. Yes, I realize you shouldn't have to drop the case to replace simple seals, but like everything else on this truck, stuff was old and frozen.
Here are the pics. I had to tighten the crud out of the nut (not too much though) to get the cotter pin in. Opposite of you. Qas your stud run down into the t case all the way?
When I did mine I made some bushings out of brass to match the Prothane Bushing material to fix the slop in the plates, bushing to stud, and a spacer from 4041 to take up the big gap to the upper bushing. This is shown on Spicer 24 but I used them on my New Process 205.
Bushings for the Prothane Mount and the Case Stud. I had a bit of movement in mine so I thought I would tighten them up. Maybe not needed but oh well.
Bushings installed on the stud and over the Prothane Bushing. You can see on the other stud how much movement you have with the original set up.
Everything mounted befor adding the spacer and upper Prothane Mount. Very little movement.
Spacer to take up 0.150" in the Prothane Bushing.
When I did mine I made some bushings out of brass to match the Prothane Bushing material to fix the slop in the plates, bushing to stud, and a spacer from 4041 to take up the big gap to the upper bushing. This is shown on Spicer 24 but I used them on my New Process 205.
Bushings for the Prothane Mount and the Case Stud. I had a bit of movement in mine so I thought I would tighten them up. Maybe not needed but oh well.
Bushings installed on the stud and over the Prothane Bushing. You can see on the other stud how much movement you have with the original set up.
Everything mounted befor adding the spacer and upper Prothane Mount. Very little movement.
Spacer to take up 0.150" in the Prothane Bushing.
CStoyer
that looks perfect. I will try and do something similar on mine now.
I wonder if the "slop" matters. My old bushings were totally shot. I kept having this "clanky-janky" sound when pulling in the driveway and other similar places. Thought my bed was loose or something in the tailgate (put new bumpers on tailgate). Basically the t-case was "swinging in the wind" on the old bushings. The old bushings were about as effective as it just hanging by the studs from the cross member.
Fast forward to new bushings and it is solid as a rock. You want some movement (not bolted solid) and the "slop" in bushing allows for minute flex. I am totally happy with mine now and can't see the clearances causing any issues.
On a side note, I used cotter pins to secure the castle nuts and should have safety wired. It is possible (although unlikely) that the studs could back out of the t-case. Safety wire would serve two purposes; keep the castle nut in place as well as prevent the stud from backing out. Will keep a close eye on my studs from down below, until I can get back on that again...
