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CCV clogged?

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Old Sep 5, 2020 | 08:36 AM
  #1  
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CCV clogged?

I have an oil leak pinned down at the driver side upper intake boot. After 2 attempts of cleaning and re tightenng the boot, oil is still getting past the clamp. If oil can get through, I assume I'm losing boost here as well. I have new RR boot and clamps on the way. Im posting to seek assurance I dont have to do the ccv mod after reading it can clog and force oil past the boots. I'd rather leave it stock if possible. I do have a small leak at the doghouse and have o rings coming for that as well. More robust RR boot/clamps and ccv o rings get me fixed up or do I need to address anything else?
 
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Old Sep 5, 2020 | 09:27 AM
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I don't think the CCV can get clogged, it's just a piece of hose from the VC to the intake. I wouldn't consider a mod there either. Those fumes stink and if you vent it to the atmosphere you're going to be sniffing them. I don't know what to tell you about the oil drip but logic dictates that oil is thicker than air and if one leaks so should the other.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2020 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
I don't think the CCV can get clogged, it's just a piece of hose from the VC to the intake. I wouldn't consider a mod there either. Those fumes stink and if you vent it to the atmosphere you're going to be sniffing them. I don't know what to tell you about the oil drip but logic dictates that oil is thicker than air and if one leaks so should the other.
Very good. The smell is exactly why I did not want to do the mod if I didn't have to. Thanks.

My driver side intercooler tube is shaking a bit at idle. My other 7.3 doesn't move at all when running. Wonder if a new boot will cure this as well.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2020 | 06:38 PM
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Worn out boots cause oil leaks, good for you on getting the RR boots. As for the CCV its rare or impossible for it to clog, the mesh inside the doghouse is large enough to not cause blockage. Also a big role on this is excessive blow by.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2020 | 06:43 PM
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Stock CCV is best.

Build a boost leak detector for less than a Starbucks and SEE if you’ve got leaks. That fine mist of oil can get past places that will never present as a ‘boost leak’.

Better boots are always s good plan.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 08:30 AM
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Remove the Boot. Clean the inside surface and the connection to the intake with something like Goop-Off to remove everything. Spray the Intake Tube with Final Net Hair Spray or similar. Install Boot. This was an old trick when I worked on Diesels.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 08:46 AM
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Please don’t use hair spray....

The key to boots staying on is they must be OIL FREE. Clean boots and pipes with degreaser and then brake cleaner on a clean rag. Assemble with wet brake cleaner on boots for a better deal than even hair spray. Clamps must be straight and in the right place on boot and pipe. The boots from CAC pipes to spider must be facing the right way so groove lines up on boots.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Please don’t use hair spray....
Please elaborate...
 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
Please elaborate...
There are more effective ways (and more masculine, lol) to make boots stay on.

Specifcally, removing 100% of the oil. I put nasty boots in the parts washer and scrub the thick scum off, then wash them in hot, soapy water - soaking if possible. Final rinse with brake cleaner after they are dry. The CAC tubes, etc also need to be oil-free. Wipe with clean cloth to verify.

Then, if you assemble the boots while they are wet with brake cleaner - they practically weld themselves to the other parts. The effect you want from the hair spray.

Be careful not to put brake cleaner in the CAC pipes, etc. This can be ignited by GP’s and bad things happen. If you get some in there - just wait an hour or 2 to start it.

This makes me want a sticker for my tool box. A red circle with a line through it and a can of hair spray.

A meme would include a promotional image of an 80’s rock band in full makeup.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 12:59 PM
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Tough choice.

Behind Door A we have:



Attractive. Mysterious. Maybe a little wicked...
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________________

And behind Door B we have:



Tetrachloroethylene (brake cleaner) is a colorless, volatile, nonflammable, liquid, chlorinated hydrocarbon with an ether-like odor that may emit toxic fumes of phosgene when exposed to sunlight or flames.
Exposure to this substance irritates the upper respiratory tract and eyes and causes neurological effects as well as kidney and liver damage.
Tetrachloroethylene is reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen and may be linked to an increased risk of developing skin, colon, lung, esophageal, and urogenital tract cancer as well as lymphosarcoma and leukemia. (NCI05)



Phosgene was first prepared in 1812 by the photochemical reaction of carbon monoxide and chlorine;
It is now commercially prepared by passing chlorine and excess carbon monoxide over activated carbon.
In its first application, phosgene was the most heavily used chemical-warfare agent during World War I .

Signal: Danger

GHS Hazard StatementsH314: Causes severe skin burns and eye damage [Danger Skin corrosion/irritation]

H330: Fatal if inhaled [Danger Acute toxicity, inhalation]
Phosgene appears as a colorless gas or very low-boiling, volatile liquid (b.p. 8.3°C, 48°F) with an odor of fresh mown hay or green corn. Extremely toxic.
Warning properties of the gas inhaled are slight, death may occur within 36 hours (Lewis, 3rd ed., 1993, p. 1027).
Prolonged exposure of the containers to intense heat may result in their violent rupturing and rocketing.

Many “Tetrachloroethylene Free” brake cleaners replace the solvent with n-Hexane instead.
n-Hexane is a powerful nerve toxin which is readily absorbed into the body.
Hexane is an unbranched alkane containing six carbon atoms. It has a role as a non-polar solvent and a neurotoxin
.
Signal: Danger
GHS Hazard StatementsH225: Highly Flammable liquid and vapor [Danger Flammable liquids]

H304: May be fatal if swallowed and enters airways [Danger Aspiration hazard]

H315: Causes skin irritation [Warning Skin corrosion/irritation]

H336: May cause drowsiness or dizziness [Warning Specific target organ toxicity, single exposure; Narcotic effects]

H361f ***: Suspected of damaging fertility [Warning Reproductive toxicity]

H373 **: Causes damage to organs through prolonged or repeated exposure [Warning Specific target organ toxicity, repeated exposure]


This isn't to suggest that hair spray is entirely safe, but like the women that most guys steal a little hair spray from, one becomes accustomed to living with a little mystery...


 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 01:08 PM
  #11  
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Well written.

You are from California, correct?
 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 01:17 PM
  #12  
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What was that you said?

Sorry, I was busy hugging the nearest Sequoia Sempervirens.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 01:29 PM
  #13  
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Well, I’ve been using the stuff since back when it was REALLY good. But, I can totally quit anytime I want.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 02:26 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Well written.
Agree. This is hilarious. A great discussion. Refreshing over the hatred spewed in other groups over differing opinions. Thanks for the laughs and efforts gentlemen.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 03:59 PM
  #15  
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So I checked the label as I was washing my hands in brake cleaner. It occurred to me the reason people in CA are so ‘concerned’ is because the label specifically calls them out.

‘Known to cause cancer in the state of Californa....’

Also, the brand I have appears to be toluene and a propellant. I’m sure it’s much safer than tetrachlowhatever or n-hexane. To be fair, I had all of those symptoms before using the stuff.

In all seriousness, I don’t think hairspray is a substitute for thorough degreasing. If the parts don’t have oil on them, they ‘stick together’ pretty good. Maybe I shouldn’t be so hasty to judge guys that use hair spray when their wives aren’t looking???

 
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