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Yes, snoqulamie pass. And I will probably be pulling over Steven's, washington, and manastash passes as well. I think I will go analog with two EGT guages and one fuel pressure. And try out the torque pro app.
There is not really a great reason for dual EGT gauges. 99.9% of is run a single EGT and find it more than adequate.
ISSPRO EV2’s are the industry standard and that company’s reputation is literally legendary. Fuel pressure and EGT cannot be measured with OBD2, so I recommend at least these gauges.
Originally Posted by RoosterCoggburn
Warning lights would nice. I ended up ordering some "Glow****" gauges. Two pyrometers, fuel pressure, and trans temp. I read enough decent reviews to give them a chance. I got the whole kit coming direct from glowshift. If or when they fail me I will upgrade to isspro or autometer. I dont like to do things twice but I need something quick. To go with the 4 guages I will run Torque Pro on my tablet.
It looks like my up pipes are leaking. I haven't pressure tested them or the intake system yet. But I figure I will go thru it all now and upgrade while I'm in there. So Bellowed up pipes, 4" straight exhaust, 6637 filter setup, wicked wheel, banks big head, new intercooler boots, any O rings and seals I come across.
What am I missing? Should I delete the exhaust flap while I'm in there? Any other mods. Thinking about a DP tuner once thats all done.
There is no advantage to larger exhaust tubing. Straightpiped stock exhaust is fine. The stock tubing is SS and will last forever in most environments.
The stock air filter flows PLENTY and filters adequately. However, the filter box is prone to not being put together correctly and having broken or missing parts - allowing dirt to get past the filter. The most economical solution is a 6637 filter from Riffraff. I modify the stock airbox and battery tray and make an adapter from 4” dia tubing like this.
Definitely bellowed up-pipes and 4+4 compressor wheel from Riffraff. Consider 360* thrust washer rebuild kit as PM unless there is ANY in/out play in turbo shaft - then you’ll have to rebuild it. I also crank the WG actuator all the way down and delete the red and geeen hoses. The big head is dumb.
Riffraff CAC boots, plenum inserts and upgrading the (4) clamps at plenums to ‘spider’ are an excellent plan.
DP Tuner is near the top of the list for the worst tuners. This is a bad plan. Hydra with PHP tunes is adequate for most people. Part of the reason Mark K feel the way he does about tuning affecting reliability is because of ****ty tunes like dp that have destroyed lots of good engines.
There are a few few other things we do ‘while you’re in there’ like removing the clamps from the fuel lines in the engine valley and you’re close enough to go ahead and do the $0.52 mod.
Check out the ‘7.3 Tech Folder’ above and look for my recent write-ups about 6637 filter and up-pipe install. LOTS of good info in there.
I got the torque pro app going and took it for a test drive. The only coolant temp guage I found on the app will not work. I loaded the superduty PIDs. The gauge reads negative. Stock coolant temp guage works fine. The boost gauge on the app seems to work decent. According to the app my typical driving style in this truck runs about 5-7 lbs of boost. I punched it up some hills by my place and got the boost guage up to 16 lbs and that seems to be the max for the truck.
This is typical. You’ll probably see a little more with non-leaky up-pipes and WG deleted.
This is is a good place to see up-pipe leaks. Looking over drivers side valve cover - look for soot on the pipes below the collector. ANY soot streaks are a leak and they HURT performance.
There is not really a great reason for dual EGT gauges. 99.9% of is run a single EGT and find it more than adequate.
ISSPRO EV2’s are the industry standard and that company’s reputation is literally legendary. Fuel pressure and EGT cannot be measured with OBD2, so I recommend at least these gauges.
There is no advantage to larger exhaust tubing. Straightpiped stock exhaust is fine. The stock tubing is SS and will last forever in most environments.
Definitely bellowed up-pipes and 4+4 compressor wheel from Riffraff. Consider 360* thrust washer rebuild kit as PM unless there is ANY in/out play in turbo shaft - then you’ll have to rebuild it. I also crank the WG actuator all the way down and delete the red and geeen hoses. The big head is dumb.
Riffraff CAC boots, plenum inserts and upgrading the (4) clamps at plenums to ‘spider’ are an excellent plan.
Hydra with PHP tunes is adequate for most people.
There are a few few other things we do ‘while you’re in there’ like removing the clamps from the fuel lines in the engine valley.
Check out the ‘7.3 Tech Folder’ above and look for my recent write-ups about 6637 filter and up-pipe install. LOTS of good info in there.
SSJ seems spot on to me. I cut up his quote a bit but not because I disagree with any of the rest of it.
-bellowed uppipes (can go cheap if need to save some coin)
-riffraff 4x4 billet wheel
-plenum inserts, good boots and clamps
-6.0 trans cooler if you have an auto (sorry forgot to look before starting my reply)
-remove CAT restriction if equipped with one
-PHP Hydra
-EGT gauge (and fuel if you can swing it)
-possibly a DIY delete of the EBPV
This list is in my opinion a recipe for a happy owner.
SSJ, is there a write up on the 6637 install in the tech folder? I have wanted to share a link with people before and looked but couldn’t find one.
There is not really a great reason for dual EGT gauges. 99.9% of is run a single EGT and find it more than adequate.
ISSPRO EV2’s are the industry standard and that company’s reputation is literally legendary. Fuel pressure and EGT cannot be measured with OBD2, so I recommend at least these gauges.
There is no advantage to larger exhaust tubing. Straightpiped stock exhaust is fine. The stock tubing is SS and will last forever in most environments.
The stock air filter flows PLENTY and filters adequately. However, the filter box is prone to not being put together correctly and having broken or missing parts - allowing dirt to get past the filter. The most economical solution is a 6637 filter from Riffraff. I modify the stock airbox and battery tray and make an adapter from 4” dia tubing like this.
Definitely bellowed up-pipes and 4+4 compressor wheel from Riffraff. Consider 360* thrust washer rebuild kit as PM unless there is ANY in/out play in turbo shaft - then you’ll have to rebuild it. I also crank the WG actuator all the way down and delete the red and geeen hoses. The big head is dumb.
Riffraff CAC boots, plenum inserts and upgrading the (4) clamps at plenums to ‘spider’ are an excellent plan.
DP Tuner is near the top of the list for the worst tuners. This is a bad plan. Hydra with PHP tunes is adequate for most people. Part of the reason Mark K feel the way he does about tuning affecting reliability is because of ****ty tunes like dp that have destroyed lots of good engines.
There are a few few other things we do ‘while you’re in there’ like removing the clamps from the fuel lines in the engine valley and you’re close enough to go ahead and do the $0.52 mod.
Check out the ‘7.3 Tech Folder’ above and look for my recent write-ups about 6637 filter and up-pipe install. LOTS of good info in there.
skyski , just curious as to why dp tunes are so bad? I have been running them for 4 years and am a bit worried being that I have them on my work truck which I rely on to make a living.. if I haven't had a problem yet is there still a chance these tunes can destroy my engine?
skyski , just curious as to why dp tunes are so bad? I have been running them for 4 years and am a bit worried being that I have them on my work truck which I rely on to make a living.. if I haven't had a problem yet is there still a chance these tunes can destroy my engine?
Curious about this as well, I've been running DP tunes since 2008 or so.
Wondering what I might be missing out on....
Lots of people run and like dp tuner. I’ve used tunes from several people and dp were my least favorite. Most noise, lots of smoke and high EGT.
I had (2) engine failures that showed evidence of too much timing after 100k miles of dp toons.
This is my personal opinion based on my experience.
When I got my 160/30 I had DP tunes for them. Had quite white haze on cold start....Had a couple of revisions....I can tell you, he isn't afraid of putting a bunch of timing in a tune. Between that and the trans tuning, which he never got right...I sold the F6 and got a Hydra...and Cody graciously did some tunes for me. Never has run better.
I towed the trailer over the pass this weekend and the trans started slipping. I think it's the torque converter. 1st and 2nd gear are slipping bad and 3 just a little and 4th was fine. Luckily traffic was moving and it was mostly highway and we made it home. Trans temp never got over 160* and the fluid looks clean and is the correct level. Any ideas? Time for a new trans or just a TC? Or something else?
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