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Phew. Those are all on this engine with the current build?
the powermasters, and about half of the others. I never really killed a powermaster, the first one the wiring broke free, sent it back and the second one didn’t very good tooth engagement. I currently have a remanned unit in there now for the past 6 months with lower initial timing.
i just don’t feel like it’s a starter/wiring issue, my gut tells me something mechanically is off.
the powermasters, and about half of the others. I never really killed a powermaster, the first one the wiring broke free, sent it back and the second one didn’t very good tooth engagement. I currently have a remanned unit in there now for the past 6 months with lower initial timing.
i just don’t feel like it’s a starter/wiring issue, my gut tells me something mechanically is off.
That's difficult to determine sometimes. We don't have a baseline of amperage draw or mechanical resistance to go by. In other words, if you could even measure it, if the starter is designed to draw 200 amps from the battery, and it's trying to draw 250-300, then you know it's being overloaded and there is too much resistance mechanically. If it was struggling and only drawing 150amps, then that would lead you to a electrical problem with the starting system.
But we don't have that to use to troubleshoot. The engine will obviously be easier to turn over with the timing retarded or the ignition disabled. But is it the starter system not up to snuff or is it too much cylinder pressure? It only struggles to turn over hot correct? When it cools off or the first morning start it turns over fine at 16?
Phew. Those are all on this engine with the current build?
Originally Posted by crucialprospect
the powermasters, and about half of the others. I never really killed a powermaster, the first one the wiring broke free, sent it back and the second one didn’t very good tooth engagement. I currently have a remanned unit in there now for the past 6 months with lower initial timing.
i just don’t feel like it’s a starter/wiring issue, my gut tells me something mechanically is off.
If you guys are looking for a starter that will turn the motor over and not have issues look at RobbMc Performance Products - RobbMc Mini-Starters
I run one on my drag car motor with out the gear support but have another as a spare that dose.
I hear the service is great from any one needing to get help and most of that was because the wrong tooth count gear was ordered than what was needed for the AMC motor being used.
I have not used, no need at this time, any of the other products they sell but I would not think twice about it after using the starter.
As for the price "You get what you pay for!"
Dave ----
I thought I was getting what I paid for, that’s sadly not always the case. It’s been about 3 days on the timing adjustment, no issues so far, I cleaned up the idle circuit on the carburetor and have been keeping the battery charger attached.
I just assume 16 degrees was too much, the white wire works, and 14 is about as high as I can go.
if I was daring, I’d take it back to 16 and see how long it lasts, but reliability is slightly more influecial in my decision over power.
I thought I was getting what I paid for, that’s sadly not always the case. It’s been about 3 days on the timing adjustment, no issues so far, I cleaned up the idle circuit on the carburetor and have been keeping the battery charger attached.
I just assume 16 degrees was too much, the white wire works, and 14 is about as high as I can go.
if I was daring, I’d take it back to 16 and see how long it lasts, but reliability is slightly more influecial in my decision over power.
While not the same engine, I built a 302 for my 1980 f150. It was a 1986 fuel injected engine that I put flat top pistons in and converted to a carb and duraspark II. I had the stock distributor. I found it ran best with the vacuum advance disconnected and like you, I found the more I advanced the initial, the better it ran to a point to where it would not crank over hot. I remember 12 or 14 BTDC was the max before it would start giving me trouble.
There is no timing retard on the Blue DS II boxes There is dwell retard on crank to shorten the time the coil energized to reduce coil heating. No idea what the aftermarket has done in their boxes but the factory box has no crank retard.
The Dwell adjustment is on ALL Dura spark DSI DSII and SSIr is done on the back end of the spark event the box delays the time till the coil is re-energized to reduce coil heating on 12v during crank. However, there is a DS II Box that has crank retard, it is the white strain relief box. Example application 1982 Ford Fairmont 2.3L Canada emissions Motorcraft DY250 / WVE 6H1090
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