I have a 77 Ford F250, 2WD, AT, 460. I have read alot about using the 68-71 timing set for better power. When you do this do you use the 68-71 Timing or the 77 460 timing specifications. I only have the 77 Timing specs so I wanted to check before I put in the cam and gear set.

 

start with the 77 specs, then advance the timing until it begins to ping in typical driving, then retard two degrees. I generally run 8-10 degrees.

 

Sounds good to me.. thank you.

 

report back when you are done.

I was amazed by the difference in torque and overall power, and noticed better mileage too. I woudl like to hear how much difference you notice.

 

I've heard using the 68 - 71 tbird timing gears will work also for an 1985 460. Is this correct?

 

the only difference and the reason for the power change is the later years retarded tha tcam timing you can do the same thing with any after market timing chain, if you do a cam degree on it you will see what I am talking about but all you are doing is advancing the cam (I could be backwards on this but I do know that it changes the cam timing by going to the earlier timing sets)

 

would using Edelbrock's Accudrive (Gear Drive) be a better alternative then? I will be using my 85 F250 7.5L for towing a Travel Trailer Semi-Full time and I'm trying to get prepared properly. Thank You

 

yes. it does.

the stock replacement chain set advances the cam to what I think is the best cam timing for every cam I've tried. I have tried several multiple keyway sets, and the 68-71 advance was the best every time. I suppose if you were building a 9-second drag car with an obscene cam, a different setting may be required, but for stump-pulling torque, and street driving, the stock crank gear is as good as I've tried, and its cheaper. (and its a pain to change the T/C on a 385-series)

 

Would a gear drive be better? Yes. Is it really needed? No. Gear drives are always going to be more accurate since there is no chain to wear out, stretch or break. from a performance standpoint, I really don't think you will need it since your towing a trailer, not drag racing. From a reliability standpoint, you can't beat the gear drives.

 

except that geardrives can accelerate cam bearing wear. and are noisy.

 

This is true. If the gears are the slightest bit concentric (out of round) or the clearance is too tight, then it will put load on the front of the camshaft and take out the front bearing. As for the noise, yeah they are noisy, but I kind of like that whine myself...

 

I ran an Edelbrock roller chain on a 460 in my old Bronco for 3 yrs. until the motor needed a rebuild. Upon disassembly I found the Edlebrock chain junk (stretched badly)
With the next 460, I installed a Cloyes True Roller. Ran this chain for 4 yrs. until I deceided to do a cam change.
When I removed this chain it was as tight as the day I installed it (no kidding)
I'll bet you can guess which chain I now use when I put together a motor!
Steve G.

 

Help! When I took my 1989 F350 460 apart to change the water pump, I discovered that the previous owner had replaced the original chain with a double roller. Sounds good, but it is a Ford unit and the cam gear is marked D8TE-BA then in another place are some numbers that are hard to read: 5256 or 5266 or ? I didn't spot any other part numbers. I think that means my 1989 has a 1978-era chain. Does anyone know what this might be off of and whether it is 0° or a retarded timing set?
Thanks!

 

Take your number to a ford parts counter and they will tell you exactly what it's from. Ford used products for many years on numerous applications.

 

I bought a chain set that had three positions on the crank sprocket..The key way either lined up with a tooth or was lined up between two teeth or was a whole tooth off..It had 22 teeth on it so a whole tooth would have retarted the cam timing by 16.36 degrres..Alot in other words..I have a picture of it I just wish I knew how to show it on this forum..Mike