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VPWR stands for Vehicle Power. It is switched power from the batteries through the ignition switch, and then supplied to the PCM on pins 71, 97.
The PCM also gets "keep alive" power KAPWR on pin 55, directly from the batteries (through a fuse, I'm sure).
PWR stands for Vehicle Power. It is switched power from the batteries through the ignition switch, and then supplied to the PCM on pins 71, 97.
The PCM also gets "keep alive" power KAPWR on pin 55, directly from the batteries (through a fuse, I'm sure).
Gotcha thank you. I am going to get back to this this afternoon. My home projects have taken longer than expected (the smoke and ash from the nearby fires are really hampering outside work). I will install the new CPS today and try to methodically data log all the parameters that you suggested tomorrow.
That makes sense on the clutch switch - likely unrelated.
So let's keep that ICP sensor in the back of our mind as we continue to troubleshoot. If we exhaust all our options, I would recommend changing that Napa unit out for Motorcraft. I have not heard of another brand being recommended equally alongside Ford sensors yet. Other parts, yes, but not these.
CPS from Riffraff - good plan. I'm still running the grey one myself - came with the truck. I'm assuming its the recall CPS from Ford, but not sure. I have Riffraff's motorcraft CPS in the glovebox if needed.
I tried that running throttle test on my truck using Forscan Lite, and graphing with the soon-to-be-released PID charting tool. It's hard to move that pedal steadily! I wanted to get a benchmark to compare your data to. You can see VPWR in the 4th chart - should be a flat line at 14.4V or so, running.
OK, just to note the changes since the last time I logged anything. I installed the blue Motorcraft CPS and unplugged the fuel bowl heater. I'm not sure if the FB heater has anything to do with it but I read that they can cause issues.
I did the accelerator pedal test, running in the driveway. I apologize but it is really hard to do that one smoothly.
The second batch of numbers is from a drive down the road. I don't have a good spot to do WOT runs or 20-60 but I did manage to get a few good acceleration examples.
Of note, the Rust Bucket didn't cough, fart, or sneeze during this whole logging session. I will be curious to see if the graphs are still all wonky though.
So it ran ok? No cutting out? Was the ICP plugged in?
The graphs are still wild, as much as they have been FIPW, RPM, ICPDC and Accelerator Pedal position are all jumping around. VPWR is pretty stable by comparison, but gets a bit low at times (13.3V at idle). Might just be the batteries a bit low from the cold start.
I don't know, Cory. It's like a loose ground or a bad alternator, because it seems to affect all of the parameters.
If it drove well though, then I question the data itself.
So it ran ok? No cutting out? Was the ICP plugged in?
The graphs are still wild, as much as they have been FIPW, RPM, ICPDC and Accelerator Pedal position are all jumping around. VPWR is pretty stable by comparison, but gets a bit low at times (13.3V at idle). Might just be the batteries a bit low from the cold start.
I don't know, Cory. It's like a loose ground or a bad alternator, because it seems to affect all of the parameters.
If it drove well though, then I question the data itself.
Yes it ran perfectly, there wasn't a cough or sneeze or anything and everything was plugged in. Granted the 2 CPS's that were installed when this issue first started were of unknown origin (not Motorcraft) I'm a little leery that this one I bought from Clay magically cured my problem. I certainly hope so though.
I wonder if the graphing has to do with my old version of AE and its hardware including the older laptop I'm using. While AE works, it isn't super user friendly so I think I am going to look into Forscan for comparison.
I did notice VPWR down to 13.3V at idle at a stoplight during my test drive. I had my headlights and fog lights on at the time (stupid fire smoke) and the voltage came back to over 14v as I left the light but it is something that I am going to keep and eye on. So right now I am just adding to list of stuff that I need to keep an eye on and/or repair/replace. I will be replacing the ICP sensor with a Motorcraft version soon just to get rid the one from Napa I previously installed.
For comparison sake should I do the same basic test drive with ICP sensor unplugged? I know at this point the truck seems to be running normally but I wonder if the graphs will be any different or less jumpy.
I don't know - I'm tempted to say if it ain't broke - just run it.
Forscan or Forscan Lite (my preference) would be good to move to if you can. Having it available on your phone is really handy, and easy to run in the background, ready to catch those intermittent issues that come up from time to time.
I think for now I'll just run it. Since it seemed to do so well the other day I'm going to venture out a little further with it today to pick up my daughter from a friends place.
Well so far so good. I haven't had any issues so far since I changed to the blue CPS. I still have a list of goodies to slowly go through to hopefully prevent this sort of thing in the future.
@BWST thank you for all your assistance and patience. In regards to Forscan Lite, what is the preferred OBDII adapter, blue tooth, or cabled?
I prefer bluetooth for convenience. You can tuck the bluetooth adapter under the dash with a 90 degree OBDII extension cable and forget about it. The well regarded OBDLink MX+ has a fast sample rate - up to 60 samples/second, as does the cabled OBDII adapters out there. The less expensive bluetooth BAFX adapter I'm using is slower, at 20 samples/second, but more than adequate.
I prefer bluetooth for convenience. You can tuck the bluetooth adapter under the dash with a 90 degree OBDII extension cable and forget about it. The well regarded OBDLink MX+ has a fast sample rate - up to 60 samples/second, as does the cabled OBDII adapters out there. The less expensive bluetooth BAFX adapter I'm using is slower, at 20 samples/second, but more than adequate.
Awesome thank you, I will be getting one of these soon. If something comes up again it will be so much easier than AE on my old PC laptop. It worked for a bunch if stuff in the past but as the computer ages and other technology advances, it seems slow and cumbersome.
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