<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o> 95 7.3 manual , with 96 computer. I live in St. Louis MO</o>
Thanks for reading my long post and thanks in advance for any suggestions. Erwin
I tried everything I can and I’m really cold and tired. Made appointment this morning to bring her in this Thursday. Their rate: $185 minimum to check it out, $125/Hr for trouble shooting, any parts they put in is mine! (of course the sales lady told me that their mechanic is very competent). I’m afraid that at the end of day, I’ll get lots of spare parts (ECU, IDM, IPR, etc.).
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If you agree that she should go somewhere else, anybody has a good Powerstroke mechanic shop in the area that you can recommend? I’m willing to cough up good amount of money ($1000 maybe) to pay for the labor, the parts that causing the problem. I’m just nervous about trusting someone in the dealership replacing major parts according to his “best judgment”.
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It started to cut out occasionally (all RPMrange) a few months ago. I kind of ignored it since I can still drive it w/o being stalled (beauty of a clutch vs. auto). It got progressively worse to a point (now) that I do not want to take her out anymore. While it’s sitting, it can run just fine for hours (nice idle) or cut out every second. It will start right up no matter what. If I keep the rpm at around 2000, it will recover most of the time after the rpm drop.
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AE scan shows HPOP pressure drops after rpm drop. Injector buzz test passes ever time and sounds right. Cylinder contribution test passes easily. No codes except the MAP.
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Here is my capacities: AE scanner, good multimeter, good mechanical and electronic knowledge,
Here is what I have done:
1. Fresh Motorcraft oil a week ago. (engine runs good for two days after that. I thought that I fixed it). The oil in it was good generic oil (no anti foaming agent?). It did look foaming when I drained it. My big mistake using oil for modern diesel oil!
2. IPR rebuilt (o-rings, seal), everything look just right
3. runs the same with IP sensor unplugged
4. Have 4 new CPS on hand (3 gray, 1 blk), not a difference.
5. CPS wires checked out: continuity to ECU terminal good and no short to ground
6. When it’s running well, wiggle-checked all harnesses, connectors, plugs, no difference
7. Opened up the IDU, no water, no corrosion, all look fine inside. Tapped, twisted (lightly) the IDU board while running well, no differences. (I know it’s 110V, I was very careful running it with the IDU board w/o the alum box)
8. Did not take the ECU out (harder than I thought). Only checked the ECU connectors visually.
9. Fuel bowl out and cleaned, good fuel pressure while running (60 psi)

 

When the truck "cuts out" if you pop the clutch does it die or just return to an idle?

 

Nate, I'm not sure if I understand you by "pop the clutch". However, When it cuts out while I'm driving, it always fires right back. That's why I was able to drive it for so long before it got too bad now. Thanks. Eriwn

 

MAP sensor seldom throws a code, unless you unplugged it for testing ... did you? If not unplug the MAP sensor and see if the problem goes away. Reason for this is MAP uses +5 volts (VREF) from the PCM as does all the sensors in the engine bay. If the internal electronics inside the MAP is screwing around with the VREF voltage ... well, long shot, but it cost nothing to try.

 

Hussler, It benaves the same with MAP is unplugged. Thanks. Eriwn

 

I mean when the truck "cuts out" does the engine die completely or just drop back to an idle? By popping the clutch, I mean if it starts to cut out and you push the clutch in, will the engine idle or just die completely?

 

Nate, While driving, if I push the clutch in when it's doing that, the engine will die most of the time, same as when the truck is sitting. But as I said, if I just keep driving, the cutch brings the engine back to life every time. Erwin

 

Well if it dies altogether that eliminates a couple things (IVS, and TPS).

 

Nate, Thanks for check that. I agree that eliminates it. Eriwn

 

It's been a while since my last diesel, but don't they have an oxygen sensor on them? It seems like when mine died (but it was a 2003 7.3) that's what the problem was and it fixed it right away (if there is one I'm sure there is a way to maybe bypass or unplug)((just for testing purposes)) but at the same time I couldn't tell you what caused it to go bad, maybe it just ran it's course.

 

Robert, I'm not sure if the powerstroke has oxygen sensor or not. Anyone knows? Erwin

 

Nope, no O2 sensors.

 

1. Fresh Motorcraft oil a week ago. (engine runs good for two days after that. I thought that I fixed it). The oil in it was good generic oil (no anti foaming agent?). It did look foaming when I drained it. My big mistake using oil for modern diesel oil!

I am not sure I understand this: are you saying you used regular motorcraft oil (the stuff that is not good for diesels)?

 

A friend of mine reminded me that the oil for Powerstroke might need an additive for anti foaming. That's when I realized that I've been using the premium generic oil for modern diessel engine. I went to the Ford dealer and got the oil (I will check the label later today) that they say it's for the powerstroke. I really hope it's the oil! Last night I looked at the oil from the dip stick and it looks very clean, light brown and no foam or air bubbles. Erwin

 

I was trying to do a little research for ya, ((needless to say I'm not a mechanic LOL))
Another problem I've seen (on the internet) is the FICM possibly bad connection or chaffed wires, maybe mine was the CPS (so long I don't remember) but did find out that not many diesels had O2 sensors in the first place ha ha ha ha, but I have a feeling you'll find info here before you have to relinquish your arms and legs at a dealer. Really wish I was more help to ya