Let me preface this thread by letting you all know that I have searched through all the no-start threads on here, but would like to get some expert opinions on my AE data as I am very inexperienced with interpreting the sensor info available. From what I see, I may have two things going bad at the same time. I have a 2002 w/166,000 miles that has been experiencing an intermitent no-start condition for the past 10 days. After the first two times it happened, I changed out my Baldwin pre-pump fuel filter (I have the in-tank mod) and the stock fuel filter under the hood. They were both over due for changing (@17,000 miles). Changed out the crankcase oil on the same day just for good measure. I had no problems the next 5 days, even taking a 300 mile trip with a 16' gooseneck horse trailer, so I thought I had taken care of it. This past Saturday the engine died again without warning while driving. I had only driven 4 miles. The engine would turn over just fine but wouldn't even think about starting. After 10 minutes of me trying to get it started and suspecting a loose connection on my DP Tuner, it started right up. I figured it was a loose DP Tuner switch connection. The next day it again died unexpectedly while driving. I had been on the road about 20 minutes. This time I disconnected the DP off the PCM completely. It would still crank but not even sputter. After getting it towed back home I left it set for 4 hours. I went back out and it started right up.

Monday night I did a thorough search on the FTE no-start threads to get some ideas. I had already replaced the CPS at 72,000 miles with a blue International sensor, so I didn't suspect that. Going through my list, I took off the plug on the ICP sensor and found it full of oil. I thought for sure I had found the problem! I left it unplugged and confidently drove it to work yesterday AM. The truck died again while driving after going about 12 miles. Same symptoms. I was able to get back over to the truck after lunch, and as I suspected, it started right up. With a co-worker following me home, I made it within 2 miles of the house before it died again. He towed me the rest of the way.

Last night I first checked the HPOP oil level and found it about 3/4" below the top. I had never changed the HPOP oil, so I did that first. I then checked the fuel flow from the pump and got a nice steady stream. I put the plug back on the ICP sensor and connected the AE. I got the following codes:

B1352 Ignition key in circuit failure
P0340 CPS A circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor)
P0603 Internal control module Keep Alive Memory error
P1211 Injector Control Pressure higher/lower than desired (engine running)
P1280 Injector Control Pressure sensor circuit low

I realize some of these came on because of the unplugged ICP sensor. I cleared the codes and started the truck. Here are the numbers I was getting on AE:

Engine RPM: 680, Battery voltage: 13.4, ICP Pressure : 496 at start dropping to 480 after five minutes, ICP Duty Cycle %: 11.33 at start going to 11.72 after 10 minutes, Fuel Injector pulse width: 2.62, Engine oil temp: 150 after 10 minutes going to 166 after 15 minutes, ICP Pressure Volts: .81

After idling on AE for 13 minutes, the ICP Duty Cycle went up and started to fluctuate from 12.11 to 12.50. The engine idled noticably rougher when it did this. Two minutes later the ICP Duty Cycle suddenly dropped to 10.94, immediately the engine died and couldn't be re-started. While cranking to re-start I got the following:

Engine RPM: 231, Battery volts: 12.6, ICP Pressure 136 max., ICP Duty Cycle: would climb steadily until it stoped at 64.85, Injector Pulse Width: .60

I apologize for the long post, but I wanted to give as much info as possible. As I said, I'm new to using the AE and monitored the suggested sensors for a no-start condition, but don't fully understand what the numbers are telling me. From what I've read on here the ICP sensor is definitely bad, and the IPR looks suspect as well. Please let me know what you guys think. I don't want to just throw parts and money at it without knowing for sure. Needless to say this has been a frustrating week so far! Thanks for your help.

Ken

 

Excellent information.
You either have a failing IPR valve, a failing HPOP (not very likely judging from what I see here) or a bad connection to the IPR.

 

First thing to check is how tight is that tin nut on the back of the IPR.

 

Thanks for the reply Kwik, I'll do that first thing tonight. If that tin nut is tight is there any way to tell which one of the two (HPOP or IPR) may be bad?

 

The only way that I know is to replace the IPR and take it from there.
They don't last forever, they are less expensive than the HPOP, and you really need to put a new IPR on if you replace the HPOP anyway.
My money is on the IPR. If your HPOP was weak, IMO, it would have high IPR duty cycle all the time.

 

Dan, that makes good sense to me. Thanks for taking the time out of your early morning to reply!

Ken

 

You have 94,000 miles on the CPS you changed at 72,000 miles. I would change it also. It's cheap.

 

Good point. I can still get that replaced under the recall, and it makes for good insurance. Thanks.

 

The ICP sensor also needs to be replaced if it has oil in it.

 

I ordered one off of ebay yesterday, as I figured the oil at the top was a dead give-away that it was shot. I can't believe the range of prices on these sensors.

 

Excellent post! For being inexperienced with AE, you are looking at the correct stuff to help determine the issue. It is also obvious you spent some time using the search function on this forum before posting your question.
Impressive.

There is no real reason to change the HPOP oil because it's oil supply comes from the crankcase anyway and the oil gets cycled pretty frequently so the HPOP will have fresh oil with each oil change by default.

How cool is that? It's fortunate that you were able to observe the issue while watching the AE. Then you were able to watch the IPR during restart and could see the PCM was asking for more injector pressure but the IPR wasn't functioning properly.

Thank YOU for the long post. I think you provided excellent info. Your ICP sensor may still be working....mine was full of oil but still provided an accurate signal. But yeah, go ahead and replace it anyway. I replaced mine because leaking oil is not good even if the sensor is working.

I agree with Dan's suggestion to check the tin nut on the back of the IPR.

 

Thanks for the suggestions and the kind words. Hopefully this thread will be another good resource for others who run into this problem in the future. Regarding the HPOP oil change, I know that topic has been hotly debated on FTE. When I looked at mine it was nasty looking, being dark black in color, even though I had just changed the crankcase oil 10 days earlier. I knew it couldn't hurt and was willing to try to eliminate any possibilities at that point!

I checked the tin nut on the IPR last night and it was tight. I'm currently waiting on the new ICP sensor and IPR to come in. With luck I'll have the beast back up and running (consistantly) again shortly. Thanks again to everyone on here for their input!