I've been gathering info and parts for the engine rebuild. Here is what I have come up with, if any engine builders want to chime in, I would love the input!

Stock (.030 0ver) D1ve block. I sourced an internally balanced 460 crank (10/10). Hypereutectic .22cc pistons, which if my math is correct should put me in the high 9's for compression ratio, after the block is zero decked. clevite bearings, felpro gaskets, yada yada. I will retain the non-ported D0ve-C heads, cleanup the valves and add some roller rockers and guide plates. I have a Comp Cams 280H, that I am seriously considering sending off to be re-ground to specs a little better for my application. I will top it all off with a Performer intake, 1 3/4 primary shorty headers and an Edelbrock AVS 2 carb. Ignition will be a custom curved Duraspark with MSD box for control.

 

Not much happening on Effay lately, as I am still waiting on the machine work to wrap up on the motor.

I did however take the time to focus on dialing in the air ride a little better. I have never been happy with the inconsistency of the pressure based system (Air-Lift 3P). The system is killer, but the consistency sucks with all pressured based systems, regardless of brand. The Air-Lift controller allows you to set several ride heights as presets. When setting it up, you dial in each bag to the desired pressure, and lock it in. Then, enter that as a pre-set ride height and lock that in. Then just press a button, and the truck will adjust itself to that ride height. Pretty straight forward. The problem is, "pressure" isn't exactly the same as height. Temperatures throw it off, payloads throw it off, a light breeze seems to throw it off. Literally every time I would hit a preset height, the physical height of the truck would be different. The air bag pressure would be about the same, but the ride height would be different, sometimes as much as an inch or two. That's no bueno!

Here is a pic of the controller, just to give you an idea what I am talking about.





With that issue really bothering me, I bought the parts to upgrade my air management to the 3H system. The 3H system uses potentiometers as ride height sensors. That gives the air management a physical representation of the actual suspension height. This is what Factory cars have been doing for decades, and it makes tons of sense. With that said, I have been dreading the idea of finding an out of the way spot, that will work for the potentiometers, along with the stress of getting all that techy stuff setup correctly. I can barely get my VCR to stop blinking 12:00am, if you know what I mean. In reality, it wasn't that bad at all. Granted, they aren't pretty, but I want this truck to be daily drivable, without being finicky. So far, it seems to be cycling well. I can tap my low height button, drive height button, etc. on the controller, and the truck goes right to that position. So far, it has consistently put the ride height within 1/8" on all the presets regardless of temperatures or payload! Very cool!

Here are a couple pics of what I came up with on the front suspension. I mounted them on the frame horn, just in front of the upper control arms. I then welded a small tab to the tubular control arms. I will chase the wiring alongside of the airlines, back to the controller. That's about as clean as I will get it. Oddly enough tho, my picture turned out making my frame horns look like the surface of the moon...haha

 

Question for anyone that may know the answer. Here is a pic of the back bumper on my truck. It has been on here since the 70's, but I have no idea what it came off of. Any input is appreciated.

 

Not sure but I love the build! Close to my heart as I'm building a '48 effie but also building a '69 f100 with a budget 468. I love the paint, come do mine!

 

The paint is really pretty easy. Give it a try on an old hood or fender. I think you might be surprised.

 

Fun stuff arrived today!

 

That's gonna make allot of thumpity thump noises

 

What a great truck, would be happy if our technical guys would allow such mods here... short question (I searched already the whole thread), what tank are you using? Looks like it perfectly fits into the frame for me..

thanks..

cheers

Chris

 

I would like it to sound choppy, but it doesn't have a ton of duration, and its a fairly mild LSA, so I am not expecting it to be rowdy. I was told it will make some decent power for my application though. I'm anxious to see how it runs AND how it sounds!

 

The fuel tank is a 1970 Ford mustang. It's a very common swap here. It does require some minor massaging on the frame rails. I I used a grinder to remove about 3/8" on each side. They are available in different sizes (gallons), and they are also available already set up for fuel injected applications, but all of them are roughly the same proportions, other than depth. I believe mine was an 18 gallon tank. I decided to mount mine on top of the frame rails, as I didn't want to see the tank from behind. I also have a raised bed floor that facilitated my rear facing filler neck. It just seemed appropriate for my setup. However, Most guys simply mount them underneath the frame, and have a filler that sticks up through the wood floor of the bed. That way is generally easier to install, and it allows you to remove the tank, without removing the bed. If you search "Mustang tank", I am sure there will be tons of info.

 

Thanks SHMO.. was near to get a tank build for me.. in germany not so easy to get parts, but this might be available...

 

Have you tried a desktop dyno

? Comp cams is called camquest .

 

I have never tried one, but now you have me really curious!

 

soooo, being a desktop dyno racer is pretty fun! I don't think I am going to hold my breath that my old truck will run mid 12's on street tires...or any tires for that matter, but horsepower wise that is about what I was hoping for.

 

Still waiting on the machine shop, but this arrived a few weeks ahead of schedule! I guess I better get going on that wiring soon.