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I'm stumped on this one. Working on one of my buddy's company trucks apparently it would buck and stall when cold then run fine once it was warm.
Ran codes got icp, ipr, and ebpv. Icp had oil coming out of it so I replaced that. Cleaned ebpv the tube was plugged solid. Pulled and rebuilt ipr it was a little sticky but orings looked ok.
That cleared all the codes and made the numbers for those things where they should be. All of those things could have caused this issue and they were all faulty now I'm getting a little stuck.
The problem it's still having warm or cold is it will idle fine then you rev the engine and let off and it will idle rough then smooth out. warm shut it off and restart and it will have rough idle then smooth out.
Other things I have checked is the big plug wires on the valve cover there all in good shape and i changed the oil (it was really low and due for an oil change)
CCT pulled up 1 and 2 and 8 once and hasn't read anything after. Pins on ucvh look good from the outside.
All i can think of now is loose undercover valve harness? It has big injectors and a chip in it both were put in around 40k miles ago.
The fuel lines are worth a look. You may have disturbed some of the line while working on the IPR or ICP. Grab a flashlight and check the connections on the fuel bowl for any wetness or signs of drips below them. Wouldn't hurt to chase the lines back to the tank as well.
No idea on injectors or tunes the guy my friend bought the truck from put them in. Looks like a ts6 dial?
I'll check the fuel lines good point. I dont have a rig to check fuel pressure set up doesnt look like the powerstrokes have Schrader valves? Maybe I'm just missing it. (I drive a IDI)
Pulled valve covers yesterday ucvh connectors were out around a 1/4 inch so did the 50cent mod. Also torqued the injectors which were very loose. Thought I had it but Unfortunately no change to the problem...does run a bit quiter now though.
The current method for fuel # test is to slip the hose off the fuel bowl drain valve. Clamp on the appropriate size hose leading to your gauge, then open the valve. You can run the hose to driver window and monitor under driving conditions. I've been replacing all the Ford connectors on my fuel system lately, and am surprised at the difference it's made. The "Hutch Mod", some quality FI hose and clamps plus a diy fuel rail return has smoothed out the idle quite a bit. Way better throttle response navigating traffic too.
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