i have a 94F-150, 5.0, automatic, 4WD, extended cab, long bed, with a camper shell. i have noticed that the EOD kicks out at times when it shouldn't, like going down hill. i can manually click the button off, and then back on and it will kick back on. is there any kind of adjustment that can be done by me, or is this in the realm of the professional? thanks

 

extended cab, long box, 4WD.. Wow, those are hard to find. I've been looking for a while.

If it's an E4OD (20 pan bolts) it's completely computer controlled but could be affected by the throttle position sensor and/or MLPS (manual lever position sensor, the "baseball diamond" on the driver's side of the transmission). Does the truck run well otherwise? A TP sensor would cause "flat spots" in the way the truck runs depending on the pedal position.

If it's an AODE I'm not sure, I know they used these with the 5.0 on some trucks in the '90's. I'd assume it's similarly electronically controlled.

 

That may also be a hill engine braking mode and be perfectly normal, I'm not sure, I always turn the OD off down long hills to specifically turn the hill mode on (3rd, direct gear and TC lockup).

 

I am experiencing a similar problem with an E40D, '92F250, 7.3. I have already gotten some valuable info from the threads on this forum. One of which lead me to believe that either the throttle position sensor and/or MLPS (manual lever position sensor are the culprit(s). The E40D will not shift into Overdrive after the engine has warmed up and it is either turned of (i.e. stop for fuel, etc.) or if you drop below 45 mph and the re-accelerate. Sometimes it's possible to slow to 40 mph, gradually accelerate to 45-50 mph, then drop it into 2nd, let rev, then throw it back into drive and it will sometimes go into Overdrive, but it amy not if you have been driving for an extended period and the engine & transmission have warmed up fully. I have the new parts and intend to change the MLPS 1st as I have it on a best guess long distance diagnosis from a forum contributor that it is most likely the problem since my dropping from drive to 2nd and back to drive sometimes allows it to go into Overdrive, as this may be "re-setting" the sensor / switch. While I have the instructions that came with the MLPS, I am concerned about the installation since it "may" be necessary to modify the connector. Has anyone else changed out an MLPS and experienced having to modify the connector and can share thier experience to provide me with some information and bolster my courage?...LOL. Also, I would like to share a source for afFORDable parts that I use if you haven't found them yourselves: Green Sales, www.GreenSalesCompany.com very reasonable compared to to the the dealer and very helpful. I have no interest in the company, just my contribution for all the help I have received here.

 

I just changed my MLPS jabout a month ago. the two bolts are athe easy part, but the connector sucks. there are 6-8 wired, depending upon your vehicle. Mine had six. I just looked and of course I just threw the old one out. As i remember, you must first pull out the red piece using needlenoses. then, take the bakc cover off. Now the tricky part. each wire has a little snapfoot/holder for it. I used a tiny flathead screwdriver, which was a little wider than the slot, but it worked. You have to get into each slot, betewwn the wire and the locking foot, and pry it away from the wire just enoug to pull the wire out. What makes it difficult is lying on your bakc, arms outstreched, and only enuff room to move wrists. Took me about 1 1/2 hours to get out the six wires. Youd dont' have to worry about mixing the wires as long as you keep them in the black back of the old connector. Once all of them are removed, get the right gasket, and new back of connector, and one by one take them out of the old gastket and place them in the same spot in the new one. Once that's done, plug each wire one by one into the new connector. They only go one way, and will snap into place, some more easliy that others. I got my from a ford dealership for $78. Hope this helps.

 

PS a screwdriver no wider than the hole probally would've cut the time in half

 

Thanks bcf. This does help a lot as it further clarifies the instructions that came with the MLPS. However, another couple of questions come to mind as a result of the said instructions. The instructions mention using the two (2) new mounting screws for the assembly, and replacing the manual lever/nut using the "new" nut supplied. Did your part/kit come with these new hardware pieces? It also mentions aligning the assembly with a E40D MLP sendor alignment tool (T92P-70010AH). Did your kit come with this, or is this a shop tool? If it didn't come with the tool, did you experience any problems with either the alignment or any problems after the installation? Oh, and if I may, what was the symptom that led you to change your MLPS? Also, the instruction sheet mentions "clearing" all "DTC's" (?), road test, and rerun On-Board Diagnostics to verify repair. I will assume you don't have any On-Board Diagnostics equipment since you changed yours like I'll change mine....on my back...LOL. However, I also assume that these aren't actually necessary since you're proabbly driving the truck and without any problems and the original problem has been corrected?

 

63Fairline500, I change it becuase I was getting really hard shifts. It helped alot, although the RPMs are about 200 higher to shift. I don't remember mine coming w/ new set screws, or new nut. I didn't align after swithcing, as the Ford guy told me I would not. I don't knwo what the adjustment would do, but mines be riding fine without such adjustments. I didn't clear the comp, but didn't run diagnostics prior to changing it though. Was experiencing back-breaking shifts before, and now they are smooth. I try to accelerate a little slower now and tat helps to keep the RMPs lower when shifting. I also added a trans cooler recently, which probally is the reason for more Rpms, as i've heard lower temps will do this.

 

the truck runs fine otherwise, but there is quite a bit of spark knocking at times when it kicks out of the OD. i just thought with all of the accessories, like the surf rack and cooler on the front, ski rack with rods on the top, and carrying all of the tackle and gear that i could eeck out a little more MPG if the OD was working at its higest effectiveness. seemed a liittle strange for it to kick out at the times that it does.

i did change the motor for the 4WD out a while back, so i am intimately familiar with that type of plug, and with lying on your back trying to get all of those little wires back where they belong. i did receive some good advice in that as i removied one from the original plug, i inserted it into the exact same spot on the new plug. worked wonders.

thanks for the information, and i'll see if it gets any worse and then make the decision.

 

BCF: I made an "attempt" at changing my MLPS today. One other question. When I tried to remove the 5/8 inch nut holding the lever connected to the shift cable, I noticed the cable attemting to kink and push through the rubber casing. Thinking this can't be good, I stopped. I then thought that maybe if I put the transmission in Neutral, it would relieve the pressure & apparent binding. No luck. How do you remove the shift cable from the lever so the binding won't occur when I try to loosen the 5/8 inch nut on the shift lever. It looks like the type of connection that is found on the "shock dampners" on a hatchback door. I haven't yet used a bright drop light to try to determine this (my next step) but I thought since you had recently gone through this, you would be able to provide me with some guidance as to the process. Thanks again for the previous information.

 

I didn't remove the shift cable. Only the two retaingin nuts. The shift cable connects to that metal "nipple" coming out in the middle around the bottom of the MLPS. That's what that adjustment tool fits over, but it is connected behind the MLPS to the trans. I forget what the instruction say, but I thinkI remember something about shifting into neutral when changing it. I did this, and just shut the truck off, then when completed i returned to park and started the engine. Note, I actually don't have a cable, but a metal rod. I don't know it the process is different with a diesel engine. Maybe it's different, although I would think that because the trans is the same it's the same process. Hope this helps

 

Moved from 87-96 to transmission forum.

 

Bringing this post back to life...

BCF or anybody else that has changed the connector. Did the new connector come with the new MLPS. I just swapped out trannies yesterday and there was a new MLPS on it but the connector on the truck is not matching up.

 

The MLPS I bought had a couple of different connector inserts supplied in case the MLPS connector on the vehicle didn't match. I was lucky, mine matched the new MLPS. So now I have the extra inserts. I did, howevr, have to contact the parts supplier and have them send me the inserts as they weren't in the box when I received the MLPS, which they did at no charge. If it hadn't matched, I would've had to remove the connector pins on my old connector and remove the insert to replace it with one of the new inserts. Hope this helps.

 

Great...thank for the info.