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An early 99 really needs a better HPOP if you're looking for much in the way of performance. My old 15* pump wouldn't hold much more than 1500 PSI under load, and my T500 will easily go to 3300 or so. That's probably not your main problem, but it's one of them.
I swapped out the 15 for a 17 when I bought a reman a couple years ago. Now whether or not the shop I had swap in this motor put that hpop on like I told them to is anyone's guess. I'm not aware of any way to tell the difference visually from the outside.
I got a chance to deadhead the hpop tonight. With IPR jumper-ed to 12v, PS line plugged, and DS line plumbed to 3k liquid filled gauge I got 1500# at 170 RPM cranking speed. Haven't found anything yet telling me what it should be under those conditions. Also should the # hold as long as the IPR is jumper-ed? So I have 1 more backup IPR I want to try in the morning for a comparison and because the DC% I see with the current 1 are always a few % higher than the other I've been using. If anyone has numbers a healthy pump should make under those conditions I'd appreciate it.
Ok, so the latest update on my hpo woes,Yesterday I decided to swap out the 17* that would only build 1500# on a deadhead # test and put my "refreshed" 15* back in. It seemed to help a little, DC% is still higher than I'm used to seeing but maybe that's due to the lower output pump?. It still struggled at WOT, but a noticeable improvement. I dug out my OG IPR and gave it a complete tear down cleaning and am running it now. Also did an oil change to Rotella 15-40 plus a round of Hot Shot(I know some people hate additives but I'm desperate, it was that or sacrifice a goat and I'm not in the mood to go chase a goat), the previous motor didn't seem to like Rotella much but I'm giving it another shot. Things were looking pretty good until EOT got in the 205-210 range then the clatter and doggyness was right back. So today I forced myself to get back out there and do the PS injector o-rings. When I started cleaning the bores up I saw this rust in the oil galleys of all the right bank injectors. This was the worst of them #7, and they seemed to get a little worse down the line, #1 barley anything. I'm stumped on this one, hoping someone can shed some light. I got the injector back in and fired it up for a hot torque,but that's as far as I got (too dark).
Also noticed this difference in the steel reinforcing ring between the Alliant on the right that came out and the Mahle on the left I just put in. The Mahle's seem to compress better with less gap that bungs up the upper cushion ring. Don't know what if any difference that might make, but the only damage I could find on the rings I pulled tonight was to those cushion rings.
I think she's finally fixed, well the knocking injectors and doggy power part anyways. I was crawling around the engine bay like a junkie carpet detective hunting for his crack rock when I saw it. The fuel bowl drain valve was wet, and I just cleaned that all up Saturday when I swapped hpop's. Best I can figure it would only leak after the engine got good and warm, explains why the fuel # tests were always good anyway. Went to ford for a new 1 and a CPS for good measure. Changed it out today and with in a minuet the banging, clattering, and knocking smoothed right out. Headed for the highway and was pulling hills at 70 barley breathing hard. Still need to hook up the AE for conformation but as long as she keeps running like this she can throw all the codes she wants, and she will. She's a dirty girl like that. So I'm thinking about ditching the bowl all together or at least hogtying it enough that it will never bother me again. I've lost count how many of those BS "seals" I've changed because they washed out again plus I changed the valve less than 2 years ago w/ an over priced Ford part. Not to mention it or those crappy steal lines always seem to be in the way. So "Fuel Bowl" your days are numbered.
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