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Hello everyone, I am having a bit missing/rough running problem with my 6.0. Just a little history, I bullet proofed it all except for studs. Can't see spending $500 for bolts. I had injector 6 and 8 out the other day. I swapped them b/c according to AE, 8 was missing. So I figured I'd see if the miss followed the injector to determine FICM or injector. Also, when I shut off all the injectors 1 by 1, I noticed a big miss. That is, all except for 8. However, I did notice something, but it was very little. Almost like the injector was working a little bit. So when I swapped them, now I'm getting all different readings. Now I perform the same test and when I shut off injector 4, I don't notice much, but only a little bit. Where all the others, big difference. Weird, huh? This leads me to think it's the FICM. I've had like every injector code pop up. I've had a 611, you name it, if it has to do with FICM or injectors, it popped up. Logic board is reading 13.5 - 14V. Main power is reading 48V steady. This used to be an intermittent problem, very rare. Over time it got worse and worse. Now it's to the point that it happens every time I take the truck out. I really need this fixed b/c I start work soon. I only have the money to buy one thing, FICM or injector. So I'm in a sort of pickle here. I hope someone can help me. Thanks in advance.
P.S. I take really good care of my truck. I just did a T6 oil change yesterday. Fuel filters day before and every 10 to 15K. Been using Motorcraft oil up until now. I don't even know why. I thought it was synthetic until I finally looked at the bottle. Here are some pics of the AE contribution balance test. Idk how to read it, anybody know what this means? I assume it means 5, 6 and 8 are bad. Oh and it passes the injector click test.
P.S.2 Just a little more info on the problem itself. It used to run rough very rarely and only when it was hot, I was doing high mileage or really pushing it, like pulling a trailer. Now it will do it before it's up to temp and pretty much any time.
It just makes me so mad about the FICM, b/c on the logic side, which be my case, a $0.30 transistor probably went, and I will need to buy a whole new FICM. AND I'm into electronics too, I've replaced smt parts so many times. It'd just be hard to figure out which one. I just may try though before spending a couple hundred on a new FICM. I actually priced them at this one place for around $175. Sounds too good to be true, right?
Oh, and stand pipe and dummy plug o-rings. $35, $45 for a set. Are they nuts?! What a ripoff. That is not right. O-rings cost like a few cents each. That is really some *****. They take advantage.
Just did a little more testing, I started it up and it wasn't missing at all, so I gunned it down the block, that got it to start back up. I took off the ICP pigtail and that didn't make a difference. I wiggled the harness, all three leads going to FICM. Nothing. I tried something on the actuation tab that I've never used before, inj. cont. I'm assuming it means contribution and that was at 0% at first, so it stalled. Then I put it on 100% and it ran differently. Much differently. Like a deeper diesel sound. But unsturdy. Idk how to explain it. I'm not sure what that tab does, but I just thought I'd add it into my post. If there is anything else you guys need to help me, please let me know, I'm happy to do it asap.
What work exactly did you do and how long ago before the rough running issue? Was it running rough before the work? I am assuming you had a PO611 fault code? Are you monitoring FICM voltages while cranking and running? FMP, FLP, FVP. You can always send in your FICM to ed @ ficmrepair.com. If you just did the work and haven't driven the truck enough you may have air in the system still. Are your batteries fully charged? Are your battery connections clean? Check your grounds. When you put your valve cover on the driver side back on are there bolts or studs under the FICM? Just throwing out some ideas. Try unplugging the 3 connectors on the ficm and plugging back in.
Thanks for the response dad, tbh, I cannot even remember when it started doing this, before or after. I believe it was after, but long after. Like I didn't even think that it could be from the work I did. I did the work about 2.5 yrs ago. Yes, I had a 611. I did check ficm voltage cranking and running. ficmrepair is too expensive, if I do get a ficm, I'm going to go the cheapest route I can. I doubt they will just send it back to me if it's ok and not charge me for a ficm. The air is out, I know about that. This has been a problem for some time and I know it has nothing to do with air. Batt's are fully charged. I know the effect low voltage can have on this system, the whole thing will fall down with low voltage. Bolts or studs under the ficm?? I've had the ficm unplugged more times than I care to remember.
I just took the ficm out again and currently I am testing every component on the logic side of the board for shorts. Hopefully I come across one. But everything looks good and still has all of it's magic smoke hidden inside. I did notice on the connector closest to the front of the truck, there are some pins missing, but they are not pushed in, just unpopulated. But it struck me as weird that on the ficm itself, those same pins are actually there. . .
A bubble test would let you know if you have air in the fuel system. It only take a few minutes to complete. It could help rule out a copper washer or oring issue.
The later year FICMs will drop a whole bank of injectors, not just one or two. Sounds like an injector issue to me. Are they originals?
Do you get any codes or just the miss?
Yes, I am aware that the ficm has only 2 drivers on mine, whereas the older models have a driver for each injector. They are originals. However, I find it hard to believe that 4 or 5 injectors will just go at once, unless they were destroyed via low voltage/pressure. But remember, the problem is intermittent. The truck runs fine at times.
A bubble test would let you know if you have air in the fuel system. It only take a few minutes to complete. It could help rule out a copper washer or oring issue.
No air in fuel. I just did the fuel filters and of course a bubble test.
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