Hello all,

Truck details; 2013 F250 6.2L 4x4, 69,000 miles.

My truck decided to freak out on me as I was getting on the freeway the other day. While accelerating the A/C cut out and the check engine light started flashing. When I got it home I checked the codes and found 0300, 0301, 0302, 0306, 0307. I noticed an occasional arcing sound coming from the right side of the engine and found the #1 COP arcing to the block and fuel rail. I changed all of the spark plugs and tried running the engine, but the problem remains. I replaced the #1 COP with a new one but that didn't fix anything either. I tried unplugging the COPs that were throwing codes one at a time and the engine ran worse each time.

I'm running out of ideas, any help would be appreciated.

Joseph

 

After changing the plugs and coil did you clear the codes.

Denny

 

Yes, every time I try something I clear the codes before starting the engine.

 

Any updates?

 

Sorry I haven't been on in a bit, I've been working out of town a lot and haven't had time to update the thread. I tried swapping the COPs from the cylinders with codes to the cylinders without codes, but no luck. I did the same thing with the fuel injectors but it didn't fix anything. So now I've tried spark and fuel, so it must be air, right? So I pulled the intake manifold and changed all of the gaskets, no fix. So I went and got a vacuum gauge and a compression tester; lo and behold, vacuum is bouncing between 1 and 5 inches at idle and cylinder 6 has 0lbs compression. I figured since the vacuum was so low and erratic, and I had zero compression that it was something to do with the intake valve. So I pulled the valve cover and sure enough the #6 intake valve spring was broken and the valve was sitting open about 1/4in. the whole time. Off to the Ford house I went (and of course I had to go to two), to get a new spring and new valve cover gasket. Back home I get the old spring out and the new one installed without any real headaches. When I was torquing the rocker shaft assembly one of the bolts snapped off just below the shank. Since the bolts go through the camshaft bracket I used a pencil to measure how much thread would still be sticking out of the head if I were to remove the camshaft bracket, and found that at best there would be only two threads or so sticking out. Since the idea of drilling the bolt, or using and EZout while laying across the air cleaner and working over an open head and getting metal shavings everywhere didn't seem like a good idea, I broke down and had it towed to the Ford house. We'll see how much this costs...

 

I've had good luck over the years on removing snapped bolts by tack welding a washer on the bolt from the ID of the washer and then using a wrench on the washer to remove the bolt. Old cat back in the seventies showed me that trick when I snapped off a brake bleeder flush with the caliper on my Harley. Never even had to remove the caliper to repair it.
Probably did this 8 to 10 times since then and have shown it to lots of people over the years. Only had it not work one time and that's because I can't weld worth a dang.

Griz