Sticking float needle valve
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Joined: Nov 2014
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Sticking float needle valve
I have a 1982 E350 based RV with a Holley carb. I've rebuilt the carb and it ran great. Now it won't start because the float bowl needle valves (New) are sticking closed. I've removed and cleaned them with carb cleaner but they still stick. Should I replace them AGAIN or are there other options?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I try to keep Marvel's oil in the gas tank. About 4 fl. oz. per 10 gal. of fuel. It seems to help keep carburetors clean and protected from the effects of modern gasoline. Maybe it doesn't help, but it doesn't hurt. Try it and see, let us know if it seems to work.
Some people will take a Q-tip and polishing compound and chuck it up in a drill to smooth out the needle seat area. Some rebuild kits are better than others in terms of parts quality and COO.
Some people will take a Q-tip and polishing compound and chuck it up in a drill to smooth out the needle seat area. Some rebuild kits are better than others in terms of parts quality and COO.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I think in that case, I would run some Marvel's in both the fuel tank and the crankcase, according to the directions on the can. Old stale varnished gas is no bueno, Amigo. Marvel's is made to dissolve gum and varnish. That's why it frees stuck rings and lifters and valves. I'm not normally one for "snake oils" but it definitely has its uses in old iron that has sat for a long time. Old gas will burn, but can cause pretzled push rods. It leaves residue in the intake guides and valves, turns to glue.
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