Good Morning,

well yesterday I got the new dimmer switch, still no go, but I figured out the horn. Just trying to be funny. Well i'm going to check for grounds again today, next thing I think is next is a new switch. If that don't work, going to wait till dad can help me trouble shoot the problem... wish me luck. lol

 

What does that mean, exactly? Not trying to be snarky here. If any of the cables are original, or even kinda old, they have to be replaced. The light switch has circuit breaker inside, it will trip if the resistance is too high and it doesn't take much. They worked OK when everything was new and shiny 60 years ago. Clean & tight electrical connections = Happy Electrons.

 

The dimmer switch only switches between hi & low beams and can be easy to check with out dad.
Get your self a 12 volt test light. You can get them at most auto parts stores and don't go for the cheapest one.
I needed 1 fast and the ground clip is so small I cant open it and when I do get it open it will not open wide enough to clip on anything

Anyway clip the light to a ground, any metal should work. Pull the plug off the dimmer switch.
Turn on the head lights and take the test light and see what wire in the plug has power.
Only 1 of the 3 wires should have power. That is the feed to the dimmer switch.

If you have no power to this plug you need to trace the wires back to the head light switch but if me I would just replace it and test again.
If you do have power to 1 of the wires take a jumper wire and go from that wire that has power to either one of the wires.
1 wire is for low beam and the other for high beam.
Jump from power to 1 wire and check the head lights if on then do the same to the other.
If no lights try another bulb and see if it will light up.
If not you will need to check the wiring from the dimmer switch to each head lights to see if a wire(s) broke.

When you replace the head light switch may want to use the test light to see if there is power at the plug to the switch.
No power then no lights.
Dave ----

 

I have already had the test light after it, and I checked the dimmer switch, and the fuses, and power wire to the headlight switch. Everything checks out good. Today here in a little bit I am going to go Trace the wires from the headlight switch to the lights maybe there's a corroded wire or bare wire or something.

 

I have already had the test light after it, and I checked the dimmer switch, and the fuses, and power wire to the headlight switch. Everything checks out good. Today here in a little bit I am going to go Trace the wires from the headlight switch to the lights maybe there's a corroded wire or bare wire or something.

 

... power OUT of the headlight switch, continuity from the headlight switch plug to the head light plugs... It's not that crazy of a system.

 

I believe the ground for the headlights jumps over to the back of the marking lights on the grill. Make sure you check those wires and clean that connection back to bare metal. All it takes it one bad ground to cause all kinds of weird issues with the lighting system.

 

My headlight ground shares a bolt with the horn relay. Remove, clean, and reinstall. Then check ground at the headlight socket. Which is NOT the center terminal. Made THAT mistake some 40 years ago...but the hi beams WERE bright...

 

I am assuming you checked for voltage at the bulbs themselves? I once had an import car that blew both headlights at the same time. I chased the electrical everywhere until I arrived at 12v at the bulbs themselves.

 

Mercman, look a bit further down the list of threads - OP made a new post yesterday wherein he found the exact problem you suspected, bad bulbs.