And just a recommendation....... I also bought an older 6.0L truck. 2005 F350 and mine had 26,000 miles when I got it.

I suggest you THOROUGHLY flush the cooling system, and then replace the oil and EGR cooler .

Don't wait like I did for the EGR cooler to fail (at only 42,000miles a few months ago) do it now.

 

 

Great album!! I have it on the big black CD

 

Everybody must have bought that album back in the day, if yard sales are any guide.

Schaeffer Oil is damn good stuff, it's pretty spendy though.

 

If only for the picture fantasy (of the time) .....

 

I'm currently running Triax 15w40,with that said the truck really likes it and it cheap if you buy it in the 5 gal bucket(compared to Schaeffer's and Amsoil) I think I pay 125 delivered to the door.

 

Are you using the full synthetic or the blend?

 

This sounds interesting. Might have to give it a try. Russ

 

Guess I am kinda late to this party but I just ordered 5 gal of Shaeffers 5w40 full synth for my next oil change (in 3days). My 6.0 has only seen MC 15w40 its entire life, there was nothing wrong with 15w40, but, I figured why not give Shaeffers a try.
+1 on finding a distributor

 

Another lone voice...
You don't need synthetic.
You don't want or need a 40 weight in the 6.0h my gosh. The oiling system shears it to a 30 weight in about 2500 miles anyway.
You need an oil with boron and moly for stiction.
Motorcraft 10w30 solo, or Valvoline Premium Blue with Lube Gard BioTech added.
Motorcraft, Racor, or PrimeGuard filters are all the correct length for the factory cap. Diesel Filters Online has them.
Drive 5000, change, drive again.

 

You are off base with your 2500 mile number .... apparently just repeating internet myths about how fast a 40 weight shears. Lots of data exists that shows most (maybe all) 40 weights don't shear nearly as quickly as you posted. I have 40 data points of my own (and others posted on various forums) proving that point. The greater the spread between the two viscosity numbers of a "multi-viscosity oil", the more it will shear (that is just the way it works). So that part is at least true. Just how fast the shearing occurs, is dependent to a degree on the oil base stock, and the chosen oil additives. Oils like Schaeffer 9000 and Mobil Delvac 1 (both 5W40's) do not shear nearly as quickly as a Rotella T6, or Valvoline PBE.

I'm driving 7500 miles and my oil just barely hits the top of the 30 weight bracket - and even then it is typically still higher viscosity than the virgin 10W30 oils. That said, if 30wt is so good, then why discard a 40 weight that has just sheared to a 30 wt. Keep driving it to the point that the 10W30 shears to when it has been driven 5000 miles (and you can be sure that the 10W30 oil will also shear). That point doesn't seem to ever get addressed by the 10W30 and 5W30 crowd. Data exists that shows Rotella T5 10W30 starts at about 12 cSt and drops to around 10.6 at 5.5k miles. Down to 9.5 cSt at 7500 miles. Fun fact - the 20 wt range (100 *C) is 5.6 to 9.29 cStokes (so just below 9.5 cSt, it becomes a 20 wt).

As far as PrimeGuard filters go - I wouldn't use them if they were given to me. It isn't JUST about the filter length.

BTW - 230k on original injectors - no stiction.

Regarding synthetic oil, how many people have "had to" make it home with an EOT of 230, 240, or even 250? I haven't but I suppose it could happen. I personally have measured the temperature of oil in the crankcase. When I did it a couple of times, it was 50 degrees hotter than the EOT reading. Oil can even be hotter at various points inside the engine, and especially at the turbo. All that said, I know people that have not ever used synthetic oil and apparently done well. I KNOW I have done well with my synthetics. Personal preference on this choice I suppose, but IMO here are clear advantages to synthetics (maybe they will be needed, maybe they will not).

Nothing like old oil threads!

 

Sooooooo I was gonna reply but Mark took care of it 😂