I just bought a garaged '05 5.4L with 2,200 miles to replace my wrecked F250 PS7.3. Since it had never been serviced, I took it in and used a Motorcraft oil filter with synthetic Mobil 1 5-20W.

Other than great psychological feelings, I'm not sure if syn oil has any advantages in moderate climates and normal driving over standard oils.

OK, dealer standard oil change for about $25, syn oil change cost $71.

Other than costs, what's the general consensus on oils?

 

I'm a big synthetic oil fan too, because I usually keep my vehicles for a long time and I want piece of mind that I did everything I could to maintain it well.

In reality though a well designed engine with regular standard oil changes will probably last just as long as a well designed engine with syn. oil changes. If there are engine problems it's usually because of a design problem (see any of the 5.4L spark plug threads) or lack of maintenance (not doing oil changes at all) - not the type of oil you use.

Synthetic oil doesn't break down as quickly as standard oil so you can go longer without an oil change (but not too long because it can still get dirt and condensation in it).

As far as price, synthetic oil is probably not worth the price. A synthetic blend is probably the better way to go from a cost perspective.

 

Wow! $71? Feel free to bring it to me anytime. With that being said, I'm a firm supporter of synthetics, however, I believe in a proper break-in.

Synthetics (incl. blends) don't even touch my motor till 10k. at that point I switch to a good full synthetic. $35 for the oil, $5 for the filter at wal mart.

I have to agree though that a proper oil change interval is more important than what oil you use. just my $.02

 

Oils don't break down. Just the detergents in them. Synthetic really only becomes important in engines that see extreme duty. Like race engines and extreme high output ones. Any regular grade oils will protect your engine just fine.

 

The 5.4 factory fill is MotorCraft 5w-20 synthetic blend. Going to a full synthetic is just a waste of money. Synthetics are good for those long extrended intervals such as what Mercedes and BMW call for. Oil in thiose vehicles are changed at aroung 10K miles. If you stay with the recommended factory change intervals that meets your driving requirements as per Fords recommendations, using the standard factory fill of MotorCraft 5w-20 synth blend, you will see no difference from any standpoint using full synthetic. The Motorcraft synth blend is available from WalMart in 5qt jugs for a little over $10. The MC 820S filter is also available for around $3.50.
So why go spend $70 for an oil change when you can do it yourself with the factory fill and filter for under $20, and get the same protection and results!

 

Yuo might also want to have a quick read through the TSB...

Ford could very well void your warrantee if you use anthing but the synthetic blends or a full synthetic. I think I read somewhere that this is one of the first questions they ask when you bring in the truck with a ticking or knocking problem.

I buy my oil from the Esso bulk dealer for around $40 CDN for 12 litres, which ALMOST does 2 oil changes. (6.4 litres per change)

Cheers,


Doug

 

I too am a firm believer in synthetic oil. Other than a slight increase in fuel economy and better engine component life, I have no hard core data one way or the other (especially if someone changes their standard oil every 3000 miles).

What I can tell you is that I spend a lot of time running small block Ford racing engines on the dyno. For certain synthetic oil produces more power. It doesn't need to be heated nor does it thin out (break down). The Mobil 1 0w - 15W made serious power increases for an over the counter oil.

I think that documented increases in power must be a function of less friction, better bearing coating, less contamination if it does get past the rings, etc. More power should translate to better mileage, increased throttle response and less wear and tear on the engines internals. Hope this helps.

 

Why not supply us with the dyno charts? Because no one has ever stood up and claimed increase HP!

 

Please define "serious power increase". Actual dyno charts would be the best!!

 

Oil doesn't wear out, it gets dirty. Whether an oil is conventional, a blend or synthetic, the dirty is not going to change. I think you would be far better off if you got the $25 oil change at your dealer twice as often and still save $21 over synthetic.

Have you or ever known of anyone who has ever had an oil related failure with conventional oil when the oil was changed properly and kept topped off? I haven't and I'm old and worked with autos all my life.

I took the synthetic bait long ago with the claims it increased power and fuel mileage. I changed to it and found absolutely no difference and even got seepage from seals that disappeared when I went back to real oil.

 

I was simply stating my experiences. I surely am not defending or raising the flag for synthetic oil. The positive tests I have run give me conviction to say what I have in the previous post.

For a race application, any increase in horsepower is a good thing. I have done simple back to back (a-b-a) tests with Mobile 1 vs Valvoline racing oil and have seen increases of 4+HP. Some special racing only blends (from Synergyn and VP) have produced a pinch more (5, sometimes 6). If you were to ask some very hard core racers in the Pro Stock division, they'd agree.

Whether or not this translates to positive changes on the street I cannot say for sure. But since it worked for me in on the dyno, I use it for street applications as well.

 

I'll have to disagree with that point, I've seen it wear out. A friend who short tripped their vehicle a lot once wondered why the oil pressure was next to nil once the engine warmed up. I asked about the last time the oil was changed. Response was less than 2K miles, but 6 months or more previous. Suggested changing the oil. Sure enough, oil pressure was back where it belonged, and that engine is still going strong 7 years hence, running Castrol GTX instead of Penzoil.

Oil gets pounded into smaller and smaller bits with usage driving the viscosity lower and lower. Synthetic advocates tout the resiliency to breakdown being better than conventional oils.

I've had the seal leakage too with synthetics, so I haven't been using them in my older vehicles either.

 

I have to agree with rescard on this one, although I don't have any real, verifiable data other than the seat of my pants...

I understand synthetic should not be used for break-in of the engine for the first few thousand miles so the gears and bearings seat in.

I run Mobile 1 in my Chevelle, which is pushing over 400 HP and the first thing I noticed is a much smoother running engine. Not to mention I lost a fan belt on the car this year when I was on the highway and had to drive 20 minutes without a water pump to get to the next town. The temp gauge went over the 220 degree C mark, but, in my mind, the oil protected the motor and it has run fine ever since.

I have no doubt that I would have destroyed the motor with regular oil.


Doug<O</O

 

It isn't the oil that get sheared, it's the VI improvers. The oil itself doesn't change.

It does get dirty. Soot particles and dirt (non-soluables) are abrasive and need to be removed.

Its ability to act against acids eventually fails (TBN number drops), and it needs to be replaced.

True PAO synthetics are well known for their increased resistance to oxidation at high temps. If you don't race or you drive like an old man, your need for this is lessened.

True PAO-based synthetics are expensive and useful to those that walk on the wildside of extreme heat, extreme cold, turbo applications, and EXTENDED oil changes. Except for some weights, nowdays most "synthetics" are no longer PAO-based, though there may be a small amount of PAO in them.

Most synthetics now are super-refined petroleum based oils, though you're hard pressed to find a good one that costs less. Mobil 1 oils are using these types of synthetic now. There's some indications that the 0w-xx oils are PAO or contain a larger amount of PAO.

I just put some Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend into my V10 for the first time. I've seen some pretty good results from other drivers and thought I'd try it. I got it at Wal-Mart for $2.58 a bottle.

$71 is highway robbery. You could get by much better for much less.

 

Nope Mobil 1 uses PAO's as it's base, it's a myth that they use hydrocracked petroleum.

Straight from Mobil 1:
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives