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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Big ol' Clunk in reverse

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Old Mar 23, 2020 | 06:52 PM
  #31  
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Looks like a new shift modulator is needed. Wouldn't hold vacuum. Then after enough trans fluid leaked out it sealed enough to hold vacuum. Wonder what's available.

Looks like I need a green band, $40 special order from oreilly or $20 from https://cobratransmission.com/modula...hoCQbcQAvD_BwE
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 08:02 AM
  #32  
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I just bought NOS one on Rockauto for <$20
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 08:04 AM
  #33  
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Yeah, probably going to go with rockauto, they have the best price+shipping.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 08:05 AM
  #34  
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Did you adjust the reverse band yet?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 09:37 AM
  #35  
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Haven't. I'm still tinkering with the engine. Spent yesterday picking the shop up so I have room to work again. Still not done. Going to pull the fan and shroud and belts to make it easier to get a wrench on the dampener. Pmuller Explained how I can use the push rods to check the cam. Been playing with that for a few days, the engine was rebuilt in 2015 is my best guess. Looks like it was a marine block. Guy I got it from didn't know anything about it. But all the accessories were remanufactured in 2015 and the mileage was 32k. So I'm hoping they rebuilt it in 2015 and reset the odometer, but that's a pretty big stretch. I'm trying to figure out how the engine was built. Compression is high on it, I think it's been bored .040 over, but I never got an accurate read on the numbers on the piston with my borescope. I pretty much almost read the number, then the scope moved and I never could find the number again. So after I get done playing with that and tweak the carb some and get the engine running like I feel it should be I'll work my way back.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 04:07 PM
  #36  
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So, back to this issue, noise has gotten louder. Spring swap has the rear of the truck up too high. About two inches difference between the wheels at front and rear. Pinion angle is a little rough. That may have something to do with it. Don't know enough about it. May pull the carrier and see what it looks like. That would interfere with out of sight out of mind though. I know it's got decent fluid. And it's not any looser than a tooth. Maybe a degree or two. But without pulling it apart I can't even guess at where the slop is. You guys tear any 9" rear ends apart in the last six months?
 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 05:00 PM
  #37  
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I am sticking with the idle speed theory. Have you tried to slow the idle speed down some and tried it?
 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 09:40 PM
  #38  
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Oh, shoot, I forgot to add that part into the update. Remember awhile back I was asking about the idle drop in gear and how the truck decided it needed 750 to get down to 550 in gear? I run between 5-550 at all times now, can't go no lower. Been considering bumping it up. I replaced the rear mount when it was shot and that got rid of another new problem, but the rear end still loads up when I brake, slams into GO when I let off.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2021 | 12:20 AM
  #39  
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It was finally time to replace tires, so I went with a 31" and I think the ones that came off were 28.5" and well worn. They have completely aggravated all the horrible noises the truck makes. I was comparing speedometer readings to actual speed so I could figure out which driven gear I need to swap in. Managed to get the ol' passing gear engaged and that happened with a bang! The up and down shift were both very violent and loud. One thing I've noticed I never added to this thread is that the tag for the rear-end shows 2.75 gears and I have since calculated them at 3.00-3.08(can't remember which). And with all of that, I'm going to end up pulling the chunk. My gut is telling me that instead of swapping in a new assembly, the original was rebuilt with different gearing and it wasn't shimmed right, or the preload was wrong. Also, I got new u-joints but haven't installed them yet. They're in the "when I get around to it" pile along with an all new braking system.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2021 | 06:15 AM
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If you are going to stick with 31's. I would go to a 3.50 gear. Unless you are ok with the acceleration rate you have now.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2021 | 08:19 AM
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Are you positive its not u-joints or too high idle speed?

maybe balancing weights fell off driveshaft? Bent driveshaft?

I’ve had some serious clunks tamed by turning down idle from 1000 to 500-600 RPM.

how did you calculate gearing? I have it on supposedly good authority that turning the wheels and counting shaft rotation doesn’t actually work.

did you count gear teeth?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2021 | 03:53 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jackietreehorn
Are you positive its not u-joints or too high idle speed?

maybe balancing weights fell off driveshaft? Bent driveshaft?

I’ve had some serious clunks tamed by turning down idle from 1000 to 500-600 RPM.

how did you calculate gearing? I have it on supposedly good authority that turning the wheels and counting shaft rotation doesn’t actually work.

did you count gear teeth?
If you make sure both wheels in the back turn together, it works.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 11:08 PM
  #43  
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I can't be positive it's not those things, but it definitely feels like its in the rear end, and it occurs downshifting at WOT so that's more than just too high of an idle I think. And I used a calculator to determine rear gearing.
 
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