You have the computer control system. Your ignition module is in the picture above mount to the distributor. If you go to the parts store, they have a special small socket tool to take it off. Or if you have a small metric socket set, and don't mind ruining one of your sockets, you can grind one of your sockets down to fit. I want to say it was a 5.5mm but I am not sure about that.

 

Here is the tool that autozone sells, part number 25013. They say it's 7/32 and it has a torx on the other side.

 

Ok, I think I have a torx screwdriver that'll work on that.
(Why on EARTH did Ford use a Torx bit inside there? They couldn't do us a solid and use a phillips?)

And, I'll pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and hold it close to the block to see if I get any spark before I run out to AutoZone.

Do Ignition Control Modules go bad very often?
Should I replace my Ignition Coil while I'm at it?
Or, take this one problem at a time?

 

And...another update.
I pulled the coil wire, which I suspect is the middle wire into the distributor cap and I snugged up a bolt inside of it, so I could see a spark better.
Had my brother turn the key...nothing. No spark.
So, I switched bolts...tried it again. Again nothing.

Now...should I replace both the Ignition Control Module and the Ignition Coil?

 

I REALIZED NOW that it is NOT a torx bolt inside of there. I've found the wrench you posted at Autozone and am going to pick it up and the new IC-module now.

 

Some sadistic mf’er who’s a previous owner tweaked this ignition control module on with a stripped bolt head...my new removal tool just spun around.

So, here is what happens...
God bless the mini Dremel tool...

Now, I search for a replacement bolt to swap out for the mangled one.

The casualty...

and all this...for that minuscule little bolt...

 

If you get desperate, take your dremel tool with the thin cutting wheel and cut a flat screwdriver slot in the screw. Those modules do go bad, make sure you put lots of the grease that comes with the new module on the module where it goes to the distributor. Make sure there is no debris on the dist to keep the module from sitting flat with the grease on the distributor. This module is what fires the coil. It gets hot.

 

It was too late by the time i read this...I had mangled the old module beyond use or repair...good riddance.
I hooked everything else back up, tried to fire it up and it never fired.
So, I checked for spark...still nothing.
I then replaced the Ignition Coil. Hooked everything back up, primed the carb.
Got in the cab, tried 4 times...nothing...

So I gave up...

Started to clean up and then happened to notice the choke was wide open, I forgot to make sure it was closed.

I hopped in the cab..first turn of the key, it fired and started right up.
. (apologies for the profanity, I was excited)

I let her run for about 20 min. She was running smooth but sounded like she was revving high, so I tapped the gas pedal, it dropped down.
I also hit the defrost b/c the windows were fogging up a bit.

Came back 10 min later, she was overheating, badly..

Please tell me that this is unrelated to anything carb or ignition that I had already replaced...
I'm hoping it's a simple thermostat replacement?!?

Thanks,
JT

 

Good to hear you got it running.
On the over heat what did the gauge say?
Did you make sure the system was topped up before starting?
Was the system just filled and could of had air in it?

I would let it cool off and check if the coolant level is good and try it again with the cap off just stan back in case it blows hot water out.
BTW mine goes in to the top not the bottom like yours does.
Dave ----

 

bold comments below

 

When cooled off check the level in the radiator and top off if need be.
Then run it again and see if it starts spitting fluid out and what the gauge reads.

Maybe before all that just replace the stat and new gasket just to be safe?
Have you had the motor running before and if so for how long?
Dave ----

 

Yep, I've had it running before. Plenty of times. When I start it up and don't drive it (usually with the aid of starter fluid) I usually let is run for 20 or 30 minutes at a time.

 

This was quite a saga, but I hope it's over for now...

I ended up replacing the thermostat and cracking the housing in the process. So, I purchased a new housing, new gasket, another new thermostat (because I heard that they are sometimes crushed when you re-install) and a new elbow pipe that shoots off of the housing heading to the truck's heater because mine is fairly old and rusty.

I placed an order on Amazon, because my wife was freaking out about me shopping at Advance Auto during the Coronavirus era...so this delayed everything a few days.

I pulled everything off, cleaned it all up, removed the old elbow pipe (blowtorch, WD40 and leverage) and started to put everything together.
The thermo housing was actually broken, not cracked. A big piece broke off when it was un-bolted.
So, I threw the housing back on with a new gasket and some sealer.
THEN I started to assemble everything else.

Fun learning lesson...you cannot get the elbow pipe on with the housing attached to the block...at least I cannot because my smog pump is still attached and functioning. It does NOT swing far enough out of the way so you can twist the elbow pipe on.

So, I had to pull the mf'ing thermostat housing off again, and ruined the gasked in the process...spilling some antifreeze in the driveway, again...

I broke the house rules and went to Advance Auto and bought TWO new gaskets to finish the install, curbside delivery.

Got it all back together, started her up while I was burping the system and CLOSELY watched the temp gauge...the temp got up there steadily but then stayed on M (NORMAL) the whole time.

I then went for a nice drive and continued to watch, stayed on M the whole drive.

This was a long process but it seemed to have worked.
Thank you for all of the advice. It really helped out a lot.

My next steps are to figure out if there actually is a bad gasket on the carb!

Thanks again,
JT

 

Good to hear you are making head way and got to drive it even if just a little test drive.

Way back when I was rebuilding my truck I went to install a new stat and in cleaning the housing found it was broken.
I think someone had the stat slip down and when they tightened the housing cracked it then used a butt load of blue RTV.
It really was the RTV and why I pulled it apart & new stat.
I found the first housing I got (auto zone) the heater hose pipe would not fit, housing hole was to small and had to get one from a different chain store.

My temp gauge always would read low and even blocking off the radiator off it would not come up.
My oil psi gauge stopped working a few weeks ago. Freaked me out to look at the gauge and see it at "0"
No noise from the motor and level was good so I kept using the truck till I could replace the sender that was new as part of the build.
I also changed out the temp sender and because the system was drained I replaced the stat again because I did not know if it was stuck open or what temp it was.
It was a 195* and I installed a 195* again.
I can tell you it is nice to have all the gauges working again.

So how you going to check for that bad carb gasket?
What is it doing that makes you think it is bad?
Dave ----