Starting Problems - bad fuel pump? Need advice!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 16
From: Caraway, AR
Cold air intake for the climatic choke. Tube, connected with a short piece of hose, runs from there down to the exhaust manifold. Then the one to the left of it in the picture runs up and attaches to the choke, supplying air heated by the exhaust manifold.
Post a picture of your routing sticker on the radiator support.
Post a picture of your routing sticker on the radiator support.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 188
Likes: 2
Cold air intake for the climatic choke. Tube, connected with a short piece of hose, runs from there down to the exhaust manifold. Then the one to the left of it in the picture runs up and attaches to the choke, supplying air heated by the exhaust manifold.
Post a picture of your routing sticker on the radiator support.
Post a picture of your routing sticker on the radiator support.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
If the other end of that line goes to manifold vacuum, then it probably does go to the temp sensor in the aircleaner. The sensor is called "A/C BI MET in the diagram
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
I just noticed something also. In that diagram the canister purge goes to the PCV valve connection. I kept thinking they did that on some models, but never could verify it. That is what that little nipple on the new PCV valves is for that you have to cut with pliers if you need it.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 188
Likes: 2
When you pull that choke door open, can you peak down in there and watch while you pump the throttle open by hand? Each time you do that you should get a strong stream of fuel going into the engine. If you do, that is just as good as the starter fluid. You can pump the gas a couple times and then see if it will fire off.
If you are not getting a good strong stream of fuel, there is something wrong with your accelerator pump in the carb. Or you do not have any fuel in the carb.
If you are not getting a good strong stream of fuel, there is something wrong with your accelerator pump in the carb. Or you do not have any fuel in the carb.
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
If it has a bad hesitation when you have been driving it, that is a clue the accelerator pump in the carb has a problem, and you have been getting puny dribbles all the time. And that is why you are having a hard time starting it, you can't squirt any fuel in there to help it get going.
If it has been driving fine when you finally get it going, then I suspect you do not have any fuel in the carb. I would pull the fuel line off the carb and put a rubber hose on it and point it in a bucket. Then crank the engine over, you should have strong spurts of fuel coming out of the hose when you crank the engine.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 188
Likes: 2
Thanks again for the help on this...once I do get it started...I have to sit in the cab and keep the RMP's up at like 2,000 so it doesn't stall out.
After it's warmed up, and it takes a good 8-10 minutes, it'll stay running.
Once it is running, I have only noticed a few times that it is very hesitant when I step on the gas. Almost like when I put my foot on the accelerator, it's trying to stall out. Seems like that's the opposite of what it should be doing
So, it has happened, just not all the time in my experience.
So, I pull the metal line off of the front of the newly installed fuel filter...run a rubber line off of it into a bucket...crank it over, it should shoot some gas into the bucket at that point. This is proving that everything UP TO the carburetor is working correctly?
After it's warmed up, and it takes a good 8-10 minutes, it'll stay running.
Once it is running, I have only noticed a few times that it is very hesitant when I step on the gas. Almost like when I put my foot on the accelerator, it's trying to stall out. Seems like that's the opposite of what it should be doing
So, it has happened, just not all the time in my experience. So, I pull the metal line off of the front of the newly installed fuel filter...run a rubber line off of it into a bucket...crank it over, it should shoot some gas into the bucket at that point. This is proving that everything UP TO the carburetor is working correctly?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
I just noticed something also. In that diagram the canister purge goes to the PCV valve connection. I kept thinking they did that on some models, but never could verify it. That is what that little nipple on the new PCV valves is for that you have to cut with pliers if you need it.
I had a vacuum leak where I could not get the idle speed lowered and traced it back to the PVC & canister and bowl vent pulling too much vacuum.
My fix was to take the smallest carb jet from a Holley carb jet kit and install it in the hose. I wished I could have gone smaller but that is all I had but was then able to adjust the carb.
Because I did not have all the solenoids and other valves I did way with all the vacuum lines other than for the canister & carb bowl vent, vacuum advance on the dist., power brakes & vacuum supply to the HVAC system.
No other hoses in the engine bay. Mine is an 1981 F100 300 six & T18 trans.
Dave ----
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 16
From: Caraway, AR
Thanks again for the help on this...once I do get it started...I have to sit in the cab and keep the RMP's up at like 2,000 so it doesn't stall out.
After it's warmed up, and it takes a good 8-10 minutes, it'll stay running.
Once it is running, I have only noticed a few times that it is very hesitant when I step on the gas. Almost like when I put my foot on the accelerator, it's trying to stall out. Seems like that's the opposite of what it should be doing So, it has happened, just not all the time in my experience.
So, I pull the metal line off of the front of the newly installed fuel filter...run a rubber line off of it into a bucket...crank it over, it should shoot some gas into the bucket at that point. This is proving that everything UP TO the carburetor is working correctly?
After it's warmed up, and it takes a good 8-10 minutes, it'll stay running.
Once it is running, I have only noticed a few times that it is very hesitant when I step on the gas. Almost like when I put my foot on the accelerator, it's trying to stall out. Seems like that's the opposite of what it should be doing
So, it has happened, just not all the time in my experience.So, I pull the metal line off of the front of the newly installed fuel filter...run a rubber line off of it into a bucket...crank it over, it should shoot some gas into the bucket at that point. This is proving that everything UP TO the carburetor is working correctly?
Mine is hooked up that way but I don't have any of the other things other than the bowl vent hooked to it.
I had a vacuum leak where I could not get the idle speed lowered and traced it back to the PVC & canister and bowl vent pulling too much vacuum.
My fix was to take the smallest carb jet from a Holley carb jet kit and install it in the hose. I wished I could have gone smaller but that is all I had but was then able to adjust the carb.
Because I did not have all the solenoids and other valves I did way with all the vacuum lines other than for the canister & carb bowl vent, vacuum advance on the dist., power brakes & vacuum supply to the HVAC system.
No other hoses in the engine bay. Mine is an 1981 F100 300 six & T18 trans.
Dave ----
I had a vacuum leak where I could not get the idle speed lowered and traced it back to the PVC & canister and bowl vent pulling too much vacuum.
My fix was to take the smallest carb jet from a Holley carb jet kit and install it in the hose. I wished I could have gone smaller but that is all I had but was then able to adjust the carb.
Because I did not have all the solenoids and other valves I did way with all the vacuum lines other than for the canister & carb bowl vent, vacuum advance on the dist., power brakes & vacuum supply to the HVAC system.
No other hoses in the engine bay. Mine is an 1981 F100 300 six & T18 trans.
Dave ----
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Thanks again for the help on this...once I do get it started...I have to sit in the cab and keep the RMP's up at like 2,000 so it doesn't stall out.
After it's warmed up, and it takes a good 8-10 minutes, it'll stay running.
Once it is running, I have only noticed a few times that it is very hesitant when I step on the gas. Almost like when I put my foot on the accelerator, it's trying to stall out. Seems like that's the opposite of what it should be doing So, it has happened, just not all the time in my experience.
So, I pull the metal line off of the front of the newly installed fuel filter...run a rubber line off of it into a bucket...crank it over, it should shoot some gas into the bucket at that point. This is proving that everything UP TO the carburetor is working correctly?
After it's warmed up, and it takes a good 8-10 minutes, it'll stay running.
Once it is running, I have only noticed a few times that it is very hesitant when I step on the gas. Almost like when I put my foot on the accelerator, it's trying to stall out. Seems like that's the opposite of what it should be doing
So, it has happened, just not all the time in my experience.So, I pull the metal line off of the front of the newly installed fuel filter...run a rubber line off of it into a bucket...crank it over, it should shoot some gas into the bucket at that point. This is proving that everything UP TO the carburetor is working correctly?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
Yes. If you have lots of fuel coming out, that will verify the tank and the fuel pump are delivering fuel. It that happens to be the case and you get good fuel flow, then you can put your attention to the carb. I would put a kit in it myself, but it's up to you and what you think you can handle.
If the carb and the lines where dry it will take a little cranking to get fuel to the carb and fill the bowl before he would get the throttle to squirt.
If you have a way you can fill the carb bowl thru the vent in the opening this will help it getting it to start till the bowl fills from the tank.
I would check for any vacuum lines and nipples that are open and cap them.
Lightly screw in the idle mix screw counting the number of turns to seat it LIGHTLY.
Then back it out say 2 turns.
Dave ----