63 F100 292. Been sitting 3 years, then 7 before that. Drove it the other day, whilst sitting overnight couple valves mustve been a little sticky. Seems hard to believe as the engine has north of 500k miles on it. Two pushrods come loose on drivers side, not checked passenger yet. I noticed one adjuster is loose, they drilled it and wire wrapped it, but the wire had broken and was ready to fall off and that valve had around 1/8" of lash (explains the loud tick). Has anyone done some sort of jamb nut, red locktite, or should i replace the rocker (not going to but wondering if theres another solution). Does not get driven regularly, its handy to have drivable though.

On a side note, was the 2 speed offered in F100's? Was thinking only cars. I only have two gears, but it does not seem to be starting in second, nor missing drive. There are only 2 detents as well for forward gears, but the shifter has a considerable amount of play in it. Goes into gear and shifts very well, was rebuilt in 88, has roughly 150k on it, speedometer died some years previously at 388000

 

If you drove it with 3 year old gas, then the first thing to do is drain it all, make sure everything is clean and use fresh gas. Make sure that all valves operate correctly before trying to run it again. If the pushrods were intake pushrods, then bad gas probably caused the valves to stick.

If there is not any damage to the actual rocker, then all you should need to do to fix the adjuster is to replace the adjuster screw. Two styles of adjuster were used. One uses friction to keep the screw in place and the other uses a jam nut. The jam nut style is best to use but the other style is fine as long as the replacement holds its position when adjusted. Note that they aren't exactly interchangeable. If you have the friction style rocker, then you should run a tap through it before using the jam nut style or at the very least make sure that the jam nut style will thread by hand, like a normal screw. I don't know if the friction style works in the place of the jam nut style.

 

Early Ford-o-Matic started in second. Do you have PRNDL for a shifter quadrant? If you start in L then shift to D do you get 2 shifts? Vs. 1 shift if you start in D?

Ford Cruisomatic transmission

 

The selector dial you show is for a DUAL-RANGE CRUISE-O-MATIC.



The GREEN DOT position will give you three forward speeds whereas the other position (WHITE DOT to left) will give you a 2nd second gear start. You need to ID the TRANS and condition of linkages.

EDIT -

The L on a 3S COM (as shown on the dial indicator you posted) is first gear only and is held in first gear until you move the shift lever.

 

Well, a good 5 gallons or better is probably 15 years old, another 5 is probably 7 or 8 years old, the rest is 2 or 3 years old. I dont think thats the problem, ive never had an issue with old gas other than not running great and this is non ethenol thats had preservative in it. Was 2 each side that were stuck, 1 exhaust 1 intake each bank. Ironically, was 2,3,5,6 both intakes front both exhausts rear. Only one valve was hard stuck, that was number 2 intake, which had a bent pushrod. Got the valve freed and straightened the pushrod. Took it for a short test drive after lashing all the valves. I honestly cant believe how well it runs, which if i do say so myself, is saying something as i keep all my outfits tuned up. You could convince anyone it was a fresh rebuild just listening to it because its so smooth. Lifter noise is there obviously, but not like it was before. Some of them were probably .025-.030, and the one with the loose adjuster was 1/8" by the eyecrometer. After fiddling with a nut trying to stick on there, wasnt enough thread left on the adjuster, and couldnt go below the rocker due to the oiler, so i rewired it. I did switch the adjuster with another, and its apparent the rocker itself needs replaced. The "bad" adjuster wasnt super snug in the other rocker, but the "good" adjuster was loose in the "bad" rocker. Hopefully i dont have the same issue tomorrow that started all of this and i can get the oil changed in it and start driving it a bit more. The amount of buildup inside is a bit disconcerting, especially as i know its had meticulous maintenance its whole, yet considerable, life.

Figured out the transmission too after some reading, apparently the cruisomatic only starts in first if you put it in low, where it shifts 1-2-3 perfectly.

 

The wear is usually in the rocker and not the screw. At one time Ford had oversize screws. I think they were .002 over but I have never found any..

 

Not over-riding Charlie, but below are the choices -

 

C2AZ 6549-A is like finding hens teeth.
The problem with using the lock nut type on a friction type rocker is there is no machined flat for the nut to tighten against.

 

The arm has to be machined at that point.

EDIT -

Meaning where the lock nut will contact the arm or use earlier style arm.

 

Unfortunately unless the heads have been "gone through" sometime this century both the rockers, and the rocker shafts, are most likely completely trashed by now.

Check the underside of the rocker shafts and the lower bore of the rocker arms for heavy score marks and galling. This is the area that sees the heavy loads and lack of lubrication will cause damage.