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New to me 1994 F-250. Previous owner added a trailer brake controller. Fuse is good in the dash. Cable is connected to throttle body. Brake lights work.
Before I start tearing into it, anybody have any ideas on where or what to look for?
New to me 1994 F-250. Previous owner added a trailer brake controller. Fuse is good in the dash. Cable is connected to throttle body. Brake lights work.
Before I start tearing into it, anybody have any ideas on where or what to look for?
Thanks!
Does your horn work? If not clock spring is suspect. Sandy
You mentioned you're cruise control isn't working and the truck is new to you. I don't have a definitive solution, but will offer this. Check you taillights brake and third brake light bulbs to verify there not LED. Like others on the forum, I tried using LED bulbs in the taillight brake bulbs and third brake lights, which created the problem of my E4OD transmission not shifting into over-drive and the cruise control would not engage. If you there all incandescent bulbs, verify none are missing and they are all illuminating when the brake pedal is applied.
All lights work correctly. No LED's. And horn works. I'm kinda wondering if it has anything to do with the aftermarket brake controller. But, won't be able to spend time on it til this weekend.
Thanks guys.
You mentioned you're cruise control isn't working and the truck is new to you. I don't have a definitive solution, but will offer this. Check you taillights brake and third brake light bulbs to verify there not LED. Like others on the forum, I tried using LED bulbs in the taillight brake bulbs and third brake lights, which created the problem of my E4OD transmission not shifting into over-drive and the cruise control would not engage. If you there all incandescent bulbs, verify none are missing and they are all illuminating when the brake pedal is applied.
I bought a 94 f250 and one of the owners put a flat bed on it and it has the LED lights in the back and my cruise control doesn't work and the speedo flops all over when I hit anything above 60 so if you think my cruise isn't working because of the LEDS what can I do to bypass that
check the buttons on the horn pad for starting cruise, setting speed, etc. there is specific ohm values that these.buttons should produce when pressed. Mine was
not working either. replaced the pad with buttons and it works great now.
check the buttons on the horn pad for starting cruise, setting speed, etc. there is specific ohm values that these.buttons should produce when pressed. Mine was
not working either. replaced the pad with buttons and it works great now.
Ok so dumb question but i went cheap and bought the $6 harbor freight multimeter/voltmeter and 1.) I don't know how to use it hahaha and 2.) I YouTubed a video on how to use it and I'm questioning if it's so cheap that I'll never get the right readings on anything I'm looking for (I bought it because I also have phantom draw somewhere) so my question is what symbol is for ohms? Amps? And auto is direct current DC right? So what is DCV
that's the Ohm symbol. if the meter has that listed as one of the settings to go to. with the steering wheel controls pad off the truck and the
meter set to Ohms, put the red lead on the pin to test and the black ground to the metal center piece. The youtube video should show you
the expected values you should be looking for when you hit each of the buttons respectively.
as for DC/AC...when measuring voltage on the battery, use DC volts. black - neg, red - pos
That was easy enough to find out on your own. There are even instructions on how to use a DVOM if you ask AlGore’s amazing internet. Google, Bing or whatever is you friend
A is amps
Auto what? Auto scale so it automatically changes to the appropriate scale. I assume Ohms?
DCV —> D C Volts
I have a cheap DVOM I bought many years ago and it came with instructions. I can’t believe yours didn’t or there aren’t instructions for it online.
I have had my 1996 F250 4x4, 5.8 and zf5 for nearly four months now. I also heard about this recall, so far from what I have noticed it doesn't appear that the sensor has been leaking any brake fluid. At this point I am curious, would a Ford dealership be able to look up my VIN and tell me if the truck had a replacement installed?
I have had my 1996 F250 4x4, 5.8 and zf5 for nearly four months now. I also heard about this recall, so far from what I have noticed it doesn't appear that the sensor has been leaking any brake fluid.
The leak is between the brake fluid and the speed control circuit, which is always Hot when the battery is connected. You will never see it externally. The membrane on the Brake Pressure Switch (BPS) degrades over time. This allows brake fluid, it is conductive, to come into contact with a live circuit.
Originally Posted by samuel4wolfpack
At this point I am curious, would a Ford dealership be able to look up my VIN and tell me if the truck had a replacement installed?
Yes they can.
Personally I would disconnect the BPS, then call Ford to see if they will install the recall harness AND new BPS. Or go buy the parts and do it yourself.
This happened to a member a few years ago: She's gone...
The NHTSA vin checker should let you know as well, Ford and all the manufacturers usually have their Own online vin checker that may or may not give more details than the NHTSA one.
It's the switch at the brake master cylinder. The troublesome units are red.
If the recall was performed and the red switch WAS NOT leaking at the time, the dealer would install a fused patch cable between the red switch and the OEM wire connector.
If the switch was leaking at the time of the recall work being performed they went ahead and installed the new smaller black switch in place of the red one and a new wire connector/adapter that plugs right into the OEM wire connector of the truck.
is your cruise control on the lower dash left of the steering column... approx ? Im wondering if anyone knows if the cruise controls for E40d are the same?
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