Brake Upgrade
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 383
Likes: 9
Yeah that's a possibility. I was thinking of changing the lines as well, but I was having a hard time finding them. I dont want to change all the steel lines, just the rubber lines. I dont hear the steelblines going bad unless they are rusted through and I dont typically have issues with rust in south Louisiana. I just hear of the rubber portions going back and becoming like a check valve not allowing fluid back into the reservoir and causing the calipers to stic . I went onto rockauto and they had a good bit of options for motorcraft lines so I need to look again and try to figure out what I may need. It kind of makes sense to do it since imma have it all apart and need to bleed the brakes anyway .
When you changed your lines did you drain the reservoir prior to pulling the lines?
When you changed your lines did you drain the reservoir prior to pulling the lines?
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,510
Likes: 904
From: Home Base Nebraska
Before you start buying a bunch of parts why don't you diagnose it first. Get the truck and brakes warmed up and put it up on jack stands and start it up and apply the brakes a couple of times and see if one of the wheels is dragging, if you find one dragging crack the bleeder or brake line and see if it releases. If it does the line is collapsed if it doesn't the caliper is hanging up, most likely dry slide pins.
Denny
Denny
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Yeah that's a possibility. I was thinking of changing the lines as well, but I was having a hard time finding them. I dont want to change all the steel lines, just the rubber lines. I dont hear the steelblines going bad unless they are rusted through and I dont typically have issues with rust in south Louisiana. I just hear of the rubber portions going back and becoming like a check valve not allowing fluid back into the reservoir and causing the calipers to stic . I went onto rockauto and they had a good bit of options for motorcraft lines so I need to look again and try to figure out what I may need. It kind of makes sense to do it since imma have it all apart and need to bleed the brakes anyway .
When you changed your lines did you drain the reservoir prior to pulling the lines?
When you changed your lines did you drain the reservoir prior to pulling the lines?
Before you start buying a bunch of parts why don't you diagnose it first. Get the truck and brakes warmed up and put it up on jack stands and start it up and apply the brakes a couple of times and see if one of the wheels is dragging, if you find one dragging crack the bleeder or brake line and see if it releases. If it does the line is collapsed if it doesn't the caliper is hanging up, most likely dry slide pins.
Denny
Denny
PMF makes some nice lines, I used the five piece kit with DOT4 fluid from O'Reilly's.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 383
Likes: 9
Before you start buying a bunch of parts why don't you diagnose it first. Get the truck and brakes warmed up and put it up on jack stands and start it up and apply the brakes a couple of times and see if one of the wheels is dragging, if you find one dragging crack the bleeder or brake line and see if it releases. If it does the line is collapsed if it doesn't the caliper is hanging up, most likely dry slide pins.
Denny
Denny
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,510
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From: Home Base Nebraska
Denny
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
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Got home today. Drove the truck for about 10 min and then came home and jacked up the front. I was able to spin both tires freely. There was a little resistance, but I read that would be normal with a 4x4 truck. When I spun the driver tire like the wheel in wheel of fortune it made more revolutions than when doing the passenger side. I then checked the rear and I wasn't able to get the driver side tire to spin at all. I was able to get the passenger side to spin, but there was also resistance. I think the resistance was because I had to spin the tire, gears and driveshaft. I then took off the tire and cracked the rear driver side bleeder valve and fluid dripped out, did not shoot out. That tells me there is a caliper issue. I removed the two bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the caliper and both guide pins moved freely.
With this said, I am looking at a bad driver side rear caliper. Should I change both rear or just the one that is bad? Is it wise to change the rubber lines also due to the age of the truck and the fact it sits more than it is driven?
With this said, I am looking at a bad driver side rear caliper. Should I change both rear or just the one that is bad? Is it wise to change the rubber lines also due to the age of the truck and the fact it sits more than it is driven?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 383
Likes: 9
Doing some math, if i change just the rotor, pads and caliper on the driver side, I will end up paying more than buying the powerstop kit. That would be Motorcraft caliper, motorcraft rotor, PFC pads. Dosent make sense to spend more for one side when I can do both for cheaper. Issue is, I now have upgraded brakes in the rear and oem in the front. I dont like that. I guess I will be changing all four so everything matches. I will flush the whole system and also change the rubber lines.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Pads and rotors should be changed in pairs.
I've changed single Caliper's as needed, also changed both Caliper's on the axle.
Are you still replacing brake lines?
I've changed single Caliper's as needed, also changed both Caliper's on the axle.
Are you still replacing brake lines?
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Moderator
Joined: May 2004
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From: Home Base Nebraska
Got home today. Drove the truck for about 10 min and then came home and jacked up the front. I was able to spin both tires freely. There was a little resistance, but I read that would be normal with a 4x4 truck. When I spun the driver tire like the wheel in wheel of fortune it made more revolutions than when doing the passenger side. I then checked the rear and I wasn't able to get the driver side tire to spin at all. I was able to get the passenger side to spin, but there was also resistance. I think the resistance was because I had to spin the tire, gears and driveshaft. I then took off the tire and cracked the rear driver side bleeder valve and fluid dripped out, did not shoot out. That tells me there is a caliper issue. I removed the two bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the caliper and both guide pins moved freely.
With this said, I am looking at a bad driver side rear caliper. Should I change both rear or just the one that is bad? Is it wise to change the rubber lines also due to the age of the truck and the fact it sits more than it is driven?
With this said, I am looking at a bad driver side rear caliper. Should I change both rear or just the one that is bad? Is it wise to change the rubber lines also due to the age of the truck and the fact it sits more than it is driven?
Denny
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
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Likes: 9
And that's why I'm just doing all four. Dosent make sense to have stock up front and upgraded in the rear. I've read pretty much all good on powerstop. They are suppose to be better than stock and are cheaper so now is the chance to do them. I got four new motorcraft rubber brake lines for 160 give or take from rock auto. Just makes sense to change them with all new brake parts.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
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Thought about it, but decided to upgrade the brakes.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 16,196
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From: Odessa, Delaware
How do you like the Powerstop on the rears? My truck has the original rear pads and about 93K on the clock. I'm sure I should be do for some pads in the very near future and would like a little better stopping power. I was never crazy about the brakes on my truck since buying in 2011.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 383
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I am not sure. They probably wont get put on the truck for another 2 weeks or so.
I have been pondering on changing the brakes to powerstop or brakemotive for this past week. I just decided yesterday after diagnosing my issue to go with powerstop since it's cheaper to buy as a kit than part off to OEM spec. I just couldnt get myself to buy brakes off Ebay. Brakemotive site was good and the seller answered a few of my question . I just couldnt find enough reviews on our truck using their brakes and then I just felt like powerstop site was more complete and I knew what I was getting in the kit. Their kit seems more complete with nothing else to buy. Powerstop is also sold by well known auto parts companies and lots of positive reviews on the internet. The brakemotive are roughly 200 cheaper than powerstop, but I just didnt feel completely comfortable buying that from ebay. I also used my Amazon store card so I can keep cash in my account and pay a little each month until I feel like paying it off.
I have been pondering on changing the brakes to powerstop or brakemotive for this past week. I just decided yesterday after diagnosing my issue to go with powerstop since it's cheaper to buy as a kit than part off to OEM spec. I just couldnt get myself to buy brakes off Ebay. Brakemotive site was good and the seller answered a few of my question . I just couldnt find enough reviews on our truck using their brakes and then I just felt like powerstop site was more complete and I knew what I was getting in the kit. Their kit seems more complete with nothing else to buy. Powerstop is also sold by well known auto parts companies and lots of positive reviews on the internet. The brakemotive are roughly 200 cheaper than powerstop, but I just didnt feel completely comfortable buying that from ebay. I also used my Amazon store card so I can keep cash in my account and pay a little each month until I feel like paying it off.
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