I have a 2000 7.3 X with 4x4 and I have been noticing that the brakes really seem unimpressive. Hauling my 24' enclosed trailer (about 7k all loaded) I have a pretty hard time getting it to stop (yes I have trailer brakes). Without towing anything it seems to take a lot of pedal pressure to get the beast to stop.

So.. I picked up some new pads at O'reilly's tonight figuring the pads were toast. I got Wagner brand as they said they were the best. Pulled off the first wheel though and I have about 3/4's pad left, and the rear was the same. I bought the truck used so I didn't know how long it had been since the brakes were changed.

I went ahead and bolted it back together so now I am wondering what I have to do to get the thing to stop? I don't need crazy braking abilities, but I think its pretty sub par. Are there certain pads that work well with the stock rotors that don't destroy them? I do a fair bit of towing and I try to be easy on the brakes as I read a lot that these eat pads and rotors so I want something that will last.

Thanks for any help!

-Nick

 

Your pads could be glazed and/or your brake fluid may need to be flushed and new put back in?

I changed my front pads in my '03 Excursion at 70,000 miles (fronts only).

I took my front rotors to O'Riley's and had them turn them and I bought the "Heavy Duty Wagner pads" for my X. Make sure you ask (and get) the most heavy duty pads Wagner has, as it took 2 trips to O'Riley's to find out that there are Heavy Duty and Severe Duty (get the "extra thick bad boy" pads)!!!

Clean, lube and re-install and torque to 150 - 165 lbs (key to not warping the pads... read your manual in case your model year is different).

By the way... where in KC to you live? I live in DeSoto (Johnson Cty Kansas)

Good luck,

Jeff

 

Performance friction pads and rotors will greatly improve braking and will eliminate any brake rotor warping issues these trucks have. Let me know if you need any additional info

 

Spooner,

The stock pads will last darn near forever, they are hard as a billett craknshaft!! Because of that they tend to stop only marginally well and are very hard on rotors too! Take a look at the Powerslot Cyro'ed rotors and the Hawk pads. You'll be amazed at the stopping difference and no fade either. Give us a call if you want and we'll be glad to help you on questions, it's the best non HP mods I have even done to my truck!

Mark @ DPPI

 

Thanks for the help guys! The truck has 138k on it so I can't imagine they are the stock pads, but the previous owner did have it serviced at the dealer so they must be OEM pads.

Beachbum-I am in Olathe!

-Nick

 

Another questions/suggestion, when towing are you using a weight distribution hitch? I have a 20 foot enclsoed trailer and loaded or empty is extremely hard to stop UNLESS I use the weight distribution hitch. I have POWER SLOT rotors and pads and I have excellent stopping ability and good pedal feel,

 

Bill-I wasn't aware that they helped out in braking... I actually haven't had much of a problem with sag but if it helps in braking I will order one up asap!

-Nick

 

Do you have your controller set high enough? I thought I had the same issue when I first got my X but it was just the controller wasn't set high enough.

 

Could the hoses be getting old? I know on my car, when I changed them to SS Braided Hose, it firmed it up and gave me an inch more pedal travel

 

I change the controller based on the amount of load I have so that is fine. I think I will try the w/d hitch and see how that goes.

 

I just put Hawk pads on the front and rear of my X. WOW! What a difference in stopping power. My X has 36,000 miles on it and the OEM pads were about 1/3 worn.

DSMMH

 

Now that you have new pads on make sure you bed them in right. (Look under PREVENTION in this article. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml )

I would also suggest that you change the brake fluid. I believe it is the most often overlooked fluid change on a vehicle. At 138K you need new fluid.

 

I tow a 9200 lb Trailer with a 2003 V-10 Excursion. The stock brakes are marginal at best - towing anything makes it worst as you become more dependent on the Trailer brakes.

As a Racer and general car/truck nut I won't live with poor brakes. Note that the V-10 doesn't use the Hydraulic Brake booster as does the Diesel Trucks.

Here's what I have done and have improved the braking performance by 100%:

1. Changed 4 wheel Pad to Performance Friction Corporation (PFC). Available thru Advance Auto On-Line only. $120 for 4 wheels. 40000 miles on these pads show about 25% wear - rotors are perfect - no brake dust on the wheels. They get better as they heat up! Almost a little touchy at low speeds - that's a good thing!

2. Changed all brake hoses at each wheel Stainless Steel Braided. Russell Brand. $160. (5 hoses) Took out at least an inch of pedal travel.

3. In my truck the levels of the Brake Pedal and Gas Pedal were too close. Mine had Adjustable Pedals - so I set the pedals as close to the floor as they go. Then disconnected the cable that drove the worm wheel drive to the Gas Pedal. Now I can set the Brake Pedal at a comfortable height and well above the Gas Pedal.

Guys and gals that drive my Excursion after driving there own can't believe the difference. I'm doing a similar conversion for my Daughter in Law on her Excursion the 1st week of August.

The poor brakes can be improved.

 

Doesn't anyone care? Let's continue this discussion or have I said it all?

 

You said it all!

The adjusting of the brake pedal idea was pretty ingenius!