I am looking to upgrade my brakes as I have warped my rotors twice with normal driving and there's obviously a caliper issue. I am strongly considering going to Brakemotive. I have read quite a few good reviews on the expedition page with very little bad to say. I also read good reviews on the corvette, dodge and chevy forum pages about Brakemotive. I don't see much in reviews on the Super Duty page though and the weight and towing capacity on these trucks are different from the sedans. I was considering the Powerstop originally, but after talking with a mechanic he says the Brakemotive and Powerstop are essentially the same thing and he personally used Brakemotive on his Honda Pilot and liked them. With Brakemotive I get 4 calipers, 4 rotors and 8 pads or 666 dollars compared to over a 1000 for Powerstop. I don't know who makes the calipers for Brakemotive, but from what I understand the rotors come in a box labeled powerstop, but this also came from a review from several years ago. I am under the understanding Powerstop calipers are Ford reman that are powder coated red. I like the savings with Brakemotive, but I do not want to skimp on brakes as they are essential. Does anybody have any experience on here with either company. I know I have seen positive reviews on Powerstop. I would like to stay with Ford reman calipers....really I'd much rather Ford new, but that's not an option. I am ready to pull the trigger on the set, just a little hesitant since I am really a keep things OEM kinda of guy. I have just read good stuff on Brakemotive and Powerstop, I am just hesitant because I don't want junk and to have issues down the road stopping.

 

Brakemotive was a sponsor or vender on here.....whatever they are called.....but I don't see them listed anymore.

 

There is nothing wrong with a rebuilt brake caliper, as it doesn't really have many parts.

Since you are not moving up to a larger caliper/larger rotor option, you are not going to see any real improvement.

For best 'stock-sized' braking, you should use a Motorcraft OEM brake rotor (not the aftermarket part number rotor) and the OEM brake pad, along with replacing the brake hydraulic hose. Bleed the system to remove all the old brake fluid.

-- Dave

 

I run the PowerStop Severe Duty Truck 'N Tow on my '11 F350, front and rear.

I'm just running Motorcraft reman calipers from RA, and only because the front just started peeing on the shop floor one day, and the rear was sticking. Otherwise I don't replace calipers if they don't give me reason to.

No complaints, they work well in the Colo Mtns. Slumgullion dropping into Lake City is the annual test.

 

Also this would only apply to '11+ (and thus not the OP I believe), but if you are replacing calipers now's the time to address any issues you might have with brake lines or brake line routing while the system is cracked open anyhow.

I simply could not tolerate soft lines that go UP only to then 180 DOWN to the calipers on my '11:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-11-f350.html

And I personally won't run braided SS lines - they're actually weaker than OEM rubber but it MIGHT be true they can improve pedal feel due to less swelling

 

I will double check the lines when the truck is hot, but I did not have symptoms of a bad brake lines when I checked.

 

I had a lot of problems with my original brakes on my 2013 DRW, the original front pads went 29K and they were down to 1/16 material left on the fronts, I used a set of NAPA premium fleet pads and cleaned, lubed the sticking slide pins. The NAPA pads were complete garbage and after putting up with the killing a pig noise everytime we stopped I ordered both front and rear Preformace Friction Carbon Metallic pads and because the front dust seals were damaged from the first set of pads getting hot I ordered 2 caliper rebuilt kits from Rock Auto. I replaced the dust seals only on the fronts and cleaned and used hight temp brake grease on all the slide pins front and back and installed the new pads on the OEM rotors and after a few miles to break into the rotors I have great braking with no noise ever. I used the same pads on my last DRW with stock rotors with the same result. We pull a heavy 5th wheel so thebrakes get a workout.

Denny

 

I also changed the original pads to NAPA Premium pads and have nothing but the annoying, embarrassing brake squeal. When I did the brakes last time, I was rushing to get on the road and was doing them at night. I reused the clips and didn't grease the slide pins. I think this was where my trouble started. I am wondering if I could take my rotors off, bring them to a well known shop that can check runout and verify if they are in deed warped and maybe my issues are just because of a sticking pin(s) and I don't need to change the calipers.

 

I swapped to the powerstop heavy duty tow rotors and pads on my '01 CCSB 4X4. They work great. Got them delivered to the door f ou r $300 from summit.
shop around on the prices.
I also run the powrstops on my '04 Silverado 4X4.

 

That's funny because when I used the NAPA pads I was in a time rush because I didn't think I would need pads at 29K. If you aren't getting any pulsing on cold rotors they aren't warped, I checked mine with a dial indicator and they were fine. A good metallic pad will take any minor inconsistency out of a rotor in just a few miles. After the napa pads I had a minor grove in one rotor and its all but gone now. What I have found with the PF Carbon Metallic pads is there is no fad even if you get them hot.

Denny

 

I have the e99 f250 6-spd 7.3 Lariat. 183500 miles. Since I picked this up in 2014, I have put 22500 miles on it. I am also on my 3rd set of brakes on the rear. Granted one of those was right after I bought the truck, but the brakes were sticking a bit. A couple of things I have noted/observed:

1. Manual says DOT3 fluid, which is what I had been using. DOT4 is a better grade as it handles fugitive moisture better than 3. DOT4 is a compatible replacement.
2. When I replaced the rears a few weeks ago (high end aftermarket) I took the time to see what the heck was going on. I noticed that the cylinder walls had a subtle ring/ridge of rust - slightly built up - where the piston rides. I believe this is the end result of the above noted moisture in the fluid. Since these pistons slide only 1/8 +/- of an inch, any buildup or ridge could impact the contraction of the piston, keeping the pads in contact. Note the piston had some rusting going on also.
3. I don't put huge miles on this, so the brakes aren't getting exercised often. Plus it could sit for 4-6 weeks when I travel for work. Plus I live in Maine and road salt wreaks havoc. Plus with the manual transmission I don't use the brakes as much.

Long and short, if you don't use the truck alot, and have old brake fluid sloshing around, I think these are contributing factors to this particular disease these things have. For me, I will change out my fluid at least yearly to keep the moisture at bay. I think this is probably the biggest factor.

 

I bought the truck in 2012 with exactly 50k miles. It now has 91 to 92k miles. It does not get driven every day as I have a company vehicle and work a lot of hours. I try to drive it atleast once a week though just to keep things moving. I personally have not flushed the fluid since purchasing the truck. It has been on my list of things to do, just not have gotten to it. I purchased a bleeder thinking I would do it and never did. So now, I am looking at flushing the fluid, calipers, rotors and new pads.

As far as the pulsation when braking, I honestly cant say I noticed if it does it when its cold, but I want to say it does. I do know for a fact its gets worse the longer I drive. I am kind of curious to pull the rotors and have a shop check them, but I am also just wanting to change the parts and get it over. I just need to decide powerstop or brakemotive.

 

FWIW...My 2001 had problems with hanging brakes and warped rotors for what seemed like forever. I finally replaced the hoses and problems solved. Fooled me...but I'm a believer now.

 

Yeah that's a possibility. I was thinking of changing the lines as well, but I was having a hard time finding them. I dont want to change all the steel lines, just the rubber lines. I dont hear the steelblines going bad unless they are rusted through and I dont typically have issues with rust in south Louisiana. I just hear of the rubber portions going back and becoming like a check valve not allowing fluid back into the reservoir and causing the calipers to stic . I went onto rockauto and they had a good bit of options for motorcraft lines so I need to look again and try to figure out what I may need. It kind of makes sense to do it since imma have it all apart and need to bleed the brakes anyway .

When you changed your lines did you drain the reservoir prior to pulling the lines?

 

I had a shop do it....the truck was back in the shop as the new brakes were heating up (again) while under warranty.