In the middle of the day, the front windows are not as dark as the back, not much. I had the same problem before I put the 70% in the back.
The problem is that the windshield and front windows are so big that there is a lot of light coming through.

At dawn, dusk, night it looks like a perfect match. Only when it is very sunny does it look a little different.

 

Cool, thank you! I left the factory (35%?) on the back on my '17, and did 20% up front...would like to go a little darker in the incoming '20, and true the back up as much as possible.

 

A couple of things to note. The factory glass isn’t tinted... it is simply dyed glass. There is no UV or IR heat rejection like there is with tinted glass.

As far as the front windshield goes at 80% you really can’t tell There is tint on. The mobile test units I’ve seen slide onto your side window glass for a reading which is not possible with the front windshield. I’ve had the windshields done on our last 4 vehicles and is a noticeable difference in keeping the heat down.

 

I thought about having the windshield done when I had the front two windows tinted and ended up not doing it. Really wish I would have and probably will take it back in the spring to have it done.

 

I got pulled over on my last car for 50% on the windshield. Officer used a sheet of white paper on my windshield to prove it was tinted.

 

I think the only way to get a true match would be to do 5% all around, and basically black it out.
That's way too dark for me at night... getting ol... lol

 

Yea man, that's DARK...limo tint. LOL

 

That is super dark but probably true, as far as match goes. Type of tint, dyed film, ceramic, etc. and even just your own eyes will play a role in what looks like a good match, and what doesn't.

Factory tinted glass is generally a 20% or so, most times going 20% on the 2 fronts will be close. The problem I found, is that you might get a good match from the outside looking in, but when sitting inside looking out it's a whole other look.

Like mentioned earlier in this thread, there is a lot of light that comes in from the windshield and front glass, making a perfect match even harder I think.

I've had a basic dyed film on just the front door glass of my Toyota for years, I've been happy with the shade and color match. When I had the SuperDuty done, I was not as happy with the result. I decided to go ceramic this time and rather than try to get as dark as the rears(20%) I went slightly lighter, CTX25, which is actually a 28%. From the outside looking in, it was as expected, lighter up front, but what I didnt expect was from the inside out, it actually looked darker up front compared to the rears. Not to meantion a very noticable color difference. To remedy this I went back and had 50% put on the rear doors. From outside in it didn't really change the look, but it did help with the shade and color from inside, looking out, although still not perfect. The color is tough, from the factory the rears to me, have a slight brownish hue, and the fronts some say have a greenish hue. I think that makes it a bit difficult to get a true color match without going dark. If I were to do it again, and I might, I would chose one shade darker than I did, a CTX 15 which is an 18%, along with the 50% or even 35% on the rears. I think that combo would net a good look. This is just my experience with on brand and type of film, other brands and types will have a different result.

So back to the windshield, I think anything 70 and up would be safe and still give the UV blocking benefits, as well as some heat rejection. I thought I read somewhere about avoiding certain types of film on sun roofs, some kind of potential for damage. Sorry, I cant recall the details at the moment.

 

A good tint place will carry different films to match or come close to the factory dyed windows.
The remedy you explain of tinting over factory dyed windows is a good option and is what I know have a fairly decent color match but heat reduction is noticeable.

It was said in the past that tinting sunroofs would cause the glass to explode... I find that somewhat hard to believe... a good tint place will know what to use.

 

How do you like CTX25 at night? I have had CTX30 all around on my other car, and found it to be good compromise for day/night time driving. Stopped at my installer with my truck the other day to get his take on tinting my truck (these windows are huge), and he suggested CTX15 (20 at the most) all around (I have STX with no factory tint so look will be uniform). While that's great in afternoon sun, I am worried about nighttime visibility.

 

I have no issues at all at night with the CTX25, visibility is great. I'm used to driving my old truck that has closer to a true 20% and smaller windows, that is noticabley darker at night. The CTX25 is actually a 28% per the Llumar guide. If I were to do it again, I think I would do the CTX15, 18% per the Llumar guide.

 

I got my BMW back yesterday. Did 35% ceramic on sides, 10% on back and 70% on pano roof and windshield. Also did the strip on windshield. You can't notice it and i was a little concerned it would mess with heads up display but it didn't. They use a static cling film now for your toll tags, inspection stickers etc. The 70% tint blocks 99% UV and 60% heat reduction. All the others block 90% heat and 99% UV. Doing my truck tomorrow, just windshield and pano roof. Glad to hear no issues with dash sensors.

I saw one of you say you blacked out the sunroof. You may not have an issues but most places wont put more than 70% on sunroof. I blacked out my wifes sunroof and it seriously exploded. Texas sun makes it retain too much heat I guess.

 

Tinted the whole windshield, can't tell with naked eye.

 

When you go into your display settings you can choose day, night or auto. I thought the black just looked cleaner so left it there.

 

Thanks! Just went out and set mine to night.