Guys,
I've been slowly upgrading the interior of my '79 making it more enjoyable as a summertime fun rig. One major drag is my back sticking to the vinyl seats everywhere I go in the summer and getting back into a scorching hot interior after I stop anywhere. (I don't know how you guys down south deal with it).

My truck came without tinted glass and I'm debating my options.

Option 1: Leave it alone and keep it original, suck it up on the hot days.

Option 2: Since my truck is still mostly original I could look for a parts truck with good factory tinted glass. This would give me the most original look, but I doubt the original glass will help much to keep down on the heat.

Option 3: Tint my factory clear glass.

Option 3 is the choice I'm leaning towards and what I'm looking for advice on. Limo tint, mirrored tint, and anything really dark is totally out for me as I'd like to keep a classic, somewhat original look. In my research, I've come across a 3M tint called Crystalline which is supposed to cut down 99% of UV and cut out something like 60% of heat radiating through windows, all while still being a fairly mild tint. They have both a 70% and 90% option (100% being clear with no tint).

Here is the best article I found on it, which is already a few years old:
Window Tint Classic Trucks - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

Here are my questions, and there are a lot of them:
1) Has anyone used the 3M Crystalline on their truck? Did it really do what it advertises? Is there a better product out there that I haven't found yet?

2) Does anyone know of any alternatives that would give a "factory" tint look, but still keep the heat down in the truck?

3) For those that have tinted their windows or had it done, did the tint go on the outside or inside? I would think it should be inside, but have seen articles online where they put it on the outside, including the one I have linked...

4) If you did it yourself, was it worth the hassle, or should I hire a pro? Did you take the windows out of the doors? I'm going to need to replace my window felts soon anyways, so it would be a good time to do it I'm thinking.

5) For those with sliding rear windows, does the sliding of the window scratch the tint?

I'm just trying to make sure I think it all out before making a decision as I'd hate to go through the hassle and be unhappy in the end. Any advice is welcome. Vehicle in question is the '79 F250 in my signature.

Thanks!

 

Well, finding old windows with factory tint will suck, and have very little UV protection. My factory tint is blotchy on my original windows. I have not used this particular product, but usually if 3M makes a product, it will be at the top for quality, and their other tint falls in that category. Window tint goes on the inside. What you are seeing in the article you posted is them trimming and fitting the film to the glass. This is usually done on the outside, as it is easier. If you click on the additional photos for the article and read the captions, you will learn this. I like to do it myself and remove the glass if possible. Mainly cause I don't like the little un tinted spot at the top of the side windows you usually get other wise. You sliding window is not a glass on glass thing, and there should not be anything that moves that touches glass, it can scratch glass.

The nice thing with film is, if you don't like it, you can take it off.

 

Sometimes we make concessions to improvements that are not "correct" for the sake of reliability, convenience, or comfort. If concourse correct is your goal then the job is clear. If just a clean driver, the choose the level of tint which complements look and feel sought.

Tint is applied to the inside glass.

If the window has a frame, the the tint is cut flush to the frame. If like side window glass, it is held off the edge slightly so it is not inadvertently peeled by casual contact.

Tint is fitted with the backing on. When cut to to correct size, the protective layer is peeled away the the film squeegee on. Lots and lots of soapy water and a cool day makes it less tenuous.

 

Thanks for the reply guys.

That makes sense that they are cutting and trimming on the outside first. I've never installed or watched anyone install tint so I don't know the tricks to it.

4x4slik, you make a good point on the older glass being hard to find in good shape. Another consideration is that most of the wing windows I've seen have rusty/crusty frames. Since mine are very clean it is another reason I'd like to tint my current set rather than trying to find another.

To your point HIO, I'm not looking for a Concours quality vehicle, however, my end goal is a very tasteful "restomod" type vehicle that is more comfortable to drive, but does not detract from the original look and feel of an older truck.

That's why I'm looking at the high-end 3M tint as it appears I can get the best of both worlds - a classy looking mild tint with the UV and heat reduction I'm after.

I think you guys answered my question on whether I should take the side glass out to do it. I think it would make life easier on me (or whoever I have install) and I'll be able to get the window felts done at the same time easily.

A couple questions left unanswered:

Has anyone used this product or know of anything out there in the last 5 years that has improved on it that I should be looking at?

Also, most installs I see people are doing skip the windshield because of state law or other reasons. Am I wrong in thinking that by skipping installing this on the windshield that I would only see marginal improvements on interior temps/glare reduction?

Are professional shops able to do the inside of a windshield without removal and are there any reasons I shouldn't be looking at using something like a 90% film on the inside of the windshield to cut down on heat/UV/glare?

Thanks again for the feedback guys, this is uncharted waters for me.

 

As for the windshield, a lot of states have a no tint on windshield in line of site laws. In fact, most new windshields come with a line a few inches down from the top. You can not tint below that line. Now, I believe with the product you are looking at also makes a clear film. This gives you the UV protection without any tint. I would definitely have a shop do a windshield. If there are bubbles or anything, it can obstruct your view, a cost you a ticket. Also, most films do not like the use of regular window cleaner, it deteriorates it. I would check with a good shop on your state laws. Alternatively, you can go with a sun shade.

 

My .02 cents, ive tinted acouple of my trucks myself and if you are wanting to go the "diy" rount, make sure you have a steady hand and Buddha like patience!!! Theres a member on here Axidjw, he tinted his and they came out great. Maybe look up his build thread? And im sure hell help with pointers...vent windows have always been a PITA for me but thats because i have no patience.


As far as the windshield i would check your state laws. No!...i know alot of people in mine that have theres tinted and have had no problem. I think its because what cop would want the hassle and paperwork for a ticket on a tinted windshield lol but you have options.

Alot of people will get a "brow" witch is a strip of tint at the top of the windshield witch does a noticeable amount of help...or you could get one of those windshield visor things from any parts store and place that inside your windshield when you get out of the truck...either way

Hope that helps any

 

Dang it, just saw that after i posted. You beat me to it!

 

I guess I should have been more clear...(no pun intended)

Yes, I was only looking at getting a clear film for the windshield in order to block UV rays and infrared heat, possibly doing the brow of the windshield with whatever tint I use on the windows.

I believe MN does have the law against windshield tint that you mention.

The wing windows do look like they would be a pain, but I might be able to get it given the patience. I'd just hate to wreck a sheet of tint because that 3M material is expen$ive compared to a lot of other films out there.

 

Best advice I can give on the vent windows is to take your time and if possible try to get the cutouts for the vent handle perfect before you start. The vent frame is larger than the rubber between it and the glas, so you can trim under the frame easily. In a perfect world I would remove all the windows from the truck, tint them, then reinstall - but unless I had a lot of time or had a good reason (like a paint job) I sure would not pull them just to tint them.

Admittedly I am self-taught but to me it is most important to a) get the glass absolutely squeaky clean first and b) make sure whatever you are trimming with is SHARP. I use an Xacto knife with a brand new blade. IF you can cut the tint to the perfect size, do that before you apply it. If you can't, resign yourself to trimming very carefully. You should be able to carefully trim right to the borders of the window without leaving any appreciable gaps.

I have seen people use a very tiny bead of black silicone gasket sealer around the edge of fixed windows to eliminate any border gaps.

I believe the lack of tint below the AS1 line on windshields is Federal law, not state. Either way, anything that restricts vision through the windshield is not a good idea both from a safety and legal standpoint - get in an accident and the other side's lawyer will own you. You will be surprised at how much of a difference a moderate tint on the side and back windows makes... get a foil windshield shade for the front. Once you are driving, your AC will handle the heat coming off the front. State laws vary, so research your state. For instance, in Texas the rear windows can be a "chauffeur" very dark tint, but the driver/passenger windows can't be more than 65%. New Hampshire will not allow ANY tint on driver/passenger, etc.

 

In Cali, you cannot have window tint on front driver, passenger windows or the front windshield. You can only have tint on the remaining windows if you have a passenger side mirror.


That said, I bought my film from TAP plastics. It was intended for home windows, but I used it on the truck. Came out ok, but my prep must have been flawed, as there is a few bad spots. One thing I did was tint these with the window out and before I put in the new seals. Made trimming a lot easier.

 

HoustonDave,

Great tip to start with the vent window handle and do the rest later. That makes perfect sense once you mention it.

I will not be removing all of the windows, but will likely remove the door glass.

What do you use to get the windows clean? Seems like every screen protector I've put on my phone or tablets ends up getting a piece of dust or lint in it causing a bubble, no matter how hard I try to keep it clean and even when I use a lint free microfiber cloth. Any tips there?

A brand new X-Acto knife blade will definitely happen, that's already how I was planning on doing the trimming.

I don't have A/C in my truck although I am starting to research retrofit kits right now. The tint will come before the A/C to see if the A/C is still necessary (I do live in MN, not Houston after all).

MN law allows me 50% tint on front side windows, and no restrictions on the tint in the back window. I still think I'd go with a 70% film to keep it lighter and more subtle looking as long as I can still get the film to keep the heat and UV out.

 

I've never used the 3M tint but have helped tint a couple cars after watching someone do my own. I haven't done any of these trucks but I noticed that on windows that do have a contour to them it's best to actually stick the tint on the outside of the soapy car and shrink it a little it's a heat gun. Once that was done let it hang on the window for a few minutes then soap the inside up good and stick it on. A 1/8" gap around the inside works pretty good. With the windows being flat I doubt you'll need to do it like that but it's a handy thing to remember if you do something newer. 2 brands that I've had excellent luck with not changing colors up to 8 years so far are LLumar and Suntek. If you get a few tiny bubbles park it in the sun they'll probably come out.

I just checked out the link you posted and it looks like I repeated a little. The temps are interesting, I've always wondered what difference it actually made.

 

Thanks for the advice PA,

I've got a couple buddies in the street rod association that have contacts that I'm going to call locally here.

Also found a local tint shop that is a 3M dealer so I might set up an appointment to bring the truck in and see what the different tint levels look like on the truck in person before I make up my mind. I can get a quote from them as well so I can see what I would save by doing it myself. My boss had his new Ram pickup done by them and he was happy with the fit and finish, plus it came with a lifetime warranty. We'll see what happens.

 

It's been a while since I had mine done but for what it cost I don't know why I even deviled myself playing around with it. I remember having my super cab Super Duty done for $175 and 7 windows in my Audi for $225. Nice thing the tint was cut on a plotter so it fit perfect unlike doing it by hand.

 

I was talking to my boss today about when he had his Ram pickup done.. he said it was cut perfect and he was out of there in about an hour, all with a lifetime warranty. That seems pretty hard to beat if the price is fair.