manual glow plug help please
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
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I use 12 Volt Plugs... 6 Volt plugs will heat real Quick
start with max 3 seconds if you need too then you can hit them again for another 3 secs or so... but I don't know what temps you are dealing with but I can say never more than 6 seconds at a time.
start with max 3 seconds if you need too then you can hit them again for another 3 secs or so... but I don't know what temps you are dealing with but I can say never more than 6 seconds at a time.
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
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when it is below 32F here which ain't too often 3 seconds is plenty for my 93 7.3 to light off... on normal days I only need to use the Glow Plugs first time in the morning and never need to use them the rest of the day... daily temps now in the 80',s
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
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we have folks in these forums that say hold em for like 10 Seconds BUT I'm sorry I say BS to that.... start with 3 secs and then maybe go 4 or 5 until you get what works for you... but understand many of the folks that say this and that don't say what Glow Plugs they have... I have a set of 24 volt plugs that I'm gonna use next time when my Autolites fail but they are still good after 10 years so I don't know when I will need to replace them... my Plugs have the Spade connectors not the Bullet connectors but that was something that I changed my self... it is not standard.
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Freshman User
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I live in BC Canada so it can get pretty cold, it’s minus 2 Celsius right now and I travel to places that get down to -25 Celsius!
I will try just a few seconds and see how it goes.
Interesting comment about the fuel shutoff solenoid. All I did with the red and green ignition wire was just tape it up.. hopefully it doesn’t affect anything else....
would you say say that since my switch wire is now hot I should add a fuse or circuit breaker?
I will try just a few seconds and see how it goes.
Interesting comment about the fuel shutoff solenoid. All I did with the red and green ignition wire was just tape it up.. hopefully it doesn’t affect anything else....
would you say say that since my switch wire is now hot I should add a fuse or circuit breaker?
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
I have a few buddies in the Peg....
I used to live in Grand Forks ND ... I remember the Blizzard in '66 we had 20 foot Plus snow drifts....
maybe you need to do 60 Seconds LMFAO.... serious just kidding about the time... start slow and see what works for you.....
You probably need block heater and oil heater unless you keep it in a heated Garage.
I did my Arctic Survival training outside of Keflavik Iceland... I think that is closed down now......
I seem to remember when getting back to the Bar I said "WTF is that Eskimo you want me to kill" as I had already finished off the Keg of Rum and went out in Country and Raped a Polar Bear ......
I used to live in Grand Forks ND ... I remember the Blizzard in '66 we had 20 foot Plus snow drifts....
maybe you need to do 60 Seconds LMFAO.... serious just kidding about the time... start slow and see what works for you.....
You probably need block heater and oil heater unless you keep it in a heated Garage.
I did my Arctic Survival training outside of Keflavik Iceland... I think that is closed down now......
I seem to remember when getting back to the Bar I said "WTF is that Eskimo you want me to kill" as I had already finished off the Keg of Rum and went out in Country and Raped a Polar Bear ......
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
IF I had known you was a Canuck I would have used enh and Hey a bit more often... it might have been easier to explain... hey I'm just Kidding with you and no Offense is meant.... IF we can't have a good time helping folks here then what good is this place ??? BTW I'm British 
yeah the 5 Amp inline fuse is never a bad Idea
yeah the 5 Amp inline fuse is never a bad Idea
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
we did testing on an old 12 cylinder air cooled Tatra in the Arctic and the vehicle had 2 starters but we always used a Mule to start it ... the Mule was an aux Hydraulic Cart that ran a Hydraulic start motor that plugged into the front Bumper... they also used an Aux Air start too ... the Russians were way ahead of the US when it came to Vehicles ... the US stole CTI Technology (Central tire inflation) from the Russians
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Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
that is because you actually do have the 12 Volt Potential on all the terminals Except the one that is connected to the Glow Plugs, BUT the Coil is not Drawing any Current until you Ground it with the Switch ..
Voltage is the Potential to do work.. but no work is being done until you actually have Current Flow.
Some relays are wired different internally... this is why I'm asking what Part number you Received so we can Verify how it should be.
IF you only have the One Large Post connected to the Battery then you should Only see 12 Volts on the One Terminal that the Battery is connected too.
What is the Relay Part number that you Received ?
Maybe this will help to clear up the Relay Mystery ... this is how your Relay should work. https://www.explainthatstuff.com/howrelayswork.html
While that website doesn't go into the detail of connecting Batteries and such... but the explanation is pretty spot on.
Voltage is the Potential to do work.. but no work is being done until you actually have Current Flow.
Some relays are wired different internally... this is why I'm asking what Part number you Received so we can Verify how it should be.
IF you only have the One Large Post connected to the Battery then you should Only see 12 Volts on the One Terminal that the Battery is connected too.
What is the Relay Part number that you Received ?
Maybe this will help to clear up the Relay Mystery ... this is how your Relay should work. https://www.explainthatstuff.com/howrelayswork.html
While that website doesn't go into the detail of connecting Batteries and such... but the explanation is pretty spot on.
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Freshman User
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Seeing two numbers on the order sheet
802-586-902
586 105111
so I hooked everything back up again and took off my jumper wire from hot to signal terminal. Put the ignition wire back on. Had the wait to start light on the terminal with glow plugs but moved it as it was lighting up when I turned on the ignition? And turning off when I grounded it with switch?? (Moved it to the small terminal which is ground)
the wait to start light wire itself shows voltage when ignition on...
Key off only the hot is showing voltage
key on getting voltage at the hot and two small terminals, no wait to start light.
key on, switch flipped, voltage at hot, ingition and glow plugs, wait to start light on
I don’t understand why my wait to start light wouldn’t work properly when it was on the glow plug terminal on the relay...
802-586-902
586 105111
so I hooked everything back up again and took off my jumper wire from hot to signal terminal. Put the ignition wire back on. Had the wait to start light on the terminal with glow plugs but moved it as it was lighting up when I turned on the ignition? And turning off when I grounded it with switch?? (Moved it to the small terminal which is ground)
the wait to start light wire itself shows voltage when ignition on...
Key off only the hot is showing voltage
key on getting voltage at the hot and two small terminals, no wait to start light.
key on, switch flipped, voltage at hot, ingition and glow plugs, wait to start light on
I don’t understand why my wait to start light wouldn’t work properly when it was on the glow plug terminal on the relay...
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
Seeing two numbers on the order sheet
802-586-902
586 105111
so I hooked everything back up again and took off my jumper wire from hot to signal terminal. Put the ignition wire back on. Had the wait to start light on the terminal with glow plugs but moved it as it was lighting up when I turned on the ignition? And turning off when I grounded it with switch?? (Moved it to the small terminal which is ground)
the wait to start light wire itself shows voltage when ignition on...
Key off only the hot is showing voltage
key on getting voltage at the hot and two small terminals, no wait to start light.
key on, switch flipped, voltage at hot, ingition and glow plugs, wait to start light on
I don’t understand why my wait to start light wouldn’t work properly when it was on the glow plug terminal on the relay...
802-586-902
586 105111
so I hooked everything back up again and took off my jumper wire from hot to signal terminal. Put the ignition wire back on. Had the wait to start light on the terminal with glow plugs but moved it as it was lighting up when I turned on the ignition? And turning off when I grounded it with switch?? (Moved it to the small terminal which is ground)
the wait to start light wire itself shows voltage when ignition on...
Key off only the hot is showing voltage
key on getting voltage at the hot and two small terminals, no wait to start light.
key on, switch flipped, voltage at hot, ingition and glow plugs, wait to start light on
I don’t understand why my wait to start light wouldn’t work properly when it was on the glow plug terminal on the relay...
OK I see the Problem with the light in your 1990 F350 the GP Wait light is not wired to Ground as I have it shown in My Schematic for it to work as an Indicator you need it wired as I have shown on my Schematic.
I marked the Wire that needs to be moved to Ground. your Wait to start is Connected to the Ignition Switch.
Remember... the Wait to start light is no longer "Acting" as a wait to start lamp... all it is doing now is indicating that the Main Contacts in the Glow Plug Relay are "Closed"
On Older Models that used the Old Style controller that screwed into the Cylinder head like on a 1985... the Wait to start Lamp already had one side wired to Ground.
In Fact you could connect the Black-Pink Glow Plug Lamp wire to the Signal Ground terminal of where you gave the Switch connected and use it As it is.. then it only Indicates when your Switch is closed ... but cannot tell IF the main Contacts are closed... you will see a Good Drop on the Voltmeter in the truck when the Glow plugs are activated.
New User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Hello all, I have a 1992 F250 with 150,000 miles on it. It ran great until the glow plug controller melted in place. I replaced the controller and off I went. Until I started getting that annoying clickety-click sound. It became harder and harder to start. I decided it was time to replace the controller and glow plugs again. Clickery-click, dam!
So I ran a wire from the contact that was labeled “DO NOT CONNECT ANYTHING TO THIS CONTACT”. I ran the wire into the cab and put a switch on it and tied the other end to ground. It works great but looks kinda hookey because I am using a light switch.😂 Hey, whatever works! Back on the road!
So I ran a wire from the contact that was labeled “DO NOT CONNECT ANYTHING TO THIS CONTACT”. I ran the wire into the cab and put a switch on it and tied the other end to ground. It works great but looks kinda hookey because I am using a light switch.😂 Hey, whatever works! Back on the road!
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